Tecumseh hp question ?

RobertC

RobertC

#21
#21
Well, since I totally crashed Phil's thread here, and in the interest of not reinventing the wheel, I'm going to ask another question here that at least pertains to the diaphragm carburetor I've been talking about.

So I've finally got around to rebuilding the carburetor, and while disassembling, removed the idle and high speed mixture adjusting screws...was expecting to see rubber o-rings under the brass washer.

What I think I see under the washer of the high speed adjustment is a plastic insert ?

Screenshot_20200509-214953_Gallery.jpg


I hesitate to remove it, because it's close to an eighth of an inch thick...and the o-ring in the rebuild kit is nowhere near that thick.

And I haven't yet got the brass washer removed from the idle side, seems almost impregnated into the seal.

Am I thinking correctly folks, @markus , @oldcarcbx , or is this perhaps what a gas soaked, petrified o-ring looks like ?

Thanks.
 
RobertC

RobertC

#23
#23
Thank you @oldcarcbx

I will improvise a pick of sorts then, and work to get those petrified o-rings out out of there.

Any suggestions on what can be improvised for a pick...my bent up paper clip is no match for this hardened rubber.

That one on the right is so hard, I swear it looks like a plastic insert...lol.
 
manchester1

manchester1

#24
#24
I'm going to bump this thread because I am converting a edger motor to mini bike. New slant, carburetor, govenor arm, linkage and a bunch of other things. lol. Can't seem to get the govenor adjusted properly. When I try to adjust the govenor by loosiing the screw, (and pushing to the right) it seems that the bottom arm/mechanism will not go to the right for adjustment. Pretty much straight up and down. It goes to the left. Need some extra help. lol. @markus
 
S

SAT

#29
#29
manchester1 said:
The governor arm hasn't been messed with. That's from taking the screw in and out 20 plus times changing different arms and linkages. Lol.
Click to expand...
Ok. I guess I would go back to the service manual. Here is a pre-paint pict of my current HS50 governor set-up. The machine screw fastener design seems to be pretty important to the function of the governor.
Hope this helps
 

Attachments

S

SAT

#30
#30
SAT said:
Ok. I guess I would go back to the service manual. Here is a pre-paint pict of my current HS50 governor set-up. The machine screw fastener design seems to be pretty important to the function of the governor.
Hope this helps
Click to expand...
The nut on the back of the governor arm connection is a Keps nut, like the recoil starter mounting nuts, but a different thread. Maybe 10-24.
 
markus

markus

Well-Known Member
#31
#31
@manchester1 the little clamp (its called the governor lever clamp) that you bolt the arm to..... rotates the governor shaft, and the pivot is below the arm you bolt to it. so if you are pushing the arm to the right along with it, it is pushing the govenor inside the engine closed (pushing the arm inside to the left against the flywheight). so If you hold the clamp so it does not move with one hand (put the bolt or screw that hold the arm tight to it at the 12 o'clock position and push the arm (fully connected to the carb) to the wide open throttle position and then tighten the bolt that holds the arm to the clamp, when you let off the arm it will open the govenor/take the internal arm off the flywheight. Make sense?
 
markus

markus

Well-Known Member
#33
#33
manchester1 said:
Thanks @markus. That's pretty much what I did 38 plus times. Lol. I'm going to try another carburetor.
Click to expand...
Put a little upward bend in the center of the rod that connects arm to the carb, they have a tendency to stick sometimes due to the angles (that one actualy does not look like the typical style with Z bends, still will work fine if bent just right)
 
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