Tecumseh intakes

delray

Well-Known Member
#21
intake looks good and all,but I would think it would be more functional if you made it a drop style intake. two reasons I say that is, one the direction of air would more in line with the port in the block and two the cable wouldn't be in such a bind on top.
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#22
remember the engine is at 20 degrees. if you flatten the engine, the intake is pretty damn level. it's a straight shot. i mean com'on... look at a stock tecumseh intake! christ it's in the shape of an "S" !! this is about as straight as it gets. And i don't like to lower the carb either. because it gets in the way of other stuff, and it's easier to work on if you need to change a jet. it's better to have it tucked up. trust me... i've done about 25 of these things. this ain't my first rodeo.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#23
not sure what get's in the way when you drop it? my modified stock intake with a 22mm carb fit perfect.
look no cable bind either......:scooter:

 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#24
yea but that's *really* ugly. and if you have to lower the float bowl to change the jet, have fun! and what about that "straight shot" thing??
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#25
my jet is good I don't need to keep changing jets. my modified intake/air is still traveling up just like the port in the block is...…….:scooter:
it's all good...…...about 7000+rpm's good.
good luck...
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#27
there's a lot of room here for different approaches. i like my approach as it's direct and pretty clean looking. On my picture i usually use a 90 degree elbow on the throttle cable to avoid an issue, i just had not implemented it yet. Positioning the carb where i do allows easy access to the choke lever (and it doesn't hit the torque converter cover), and i can get the float bowl off for maintenance or jet change easily. i don't really like Tecumseh's original intake manifolds as they have a lot of bends, and they basically move the carb under the exhaust and to the other side of the motor, and down. This makes simple maintenance harder, as there isn't enough room to work (without removing the carb from the engine.) I'm sure tecumseh positioned the carb this way for a good reason, but it doesn't work for me personally.
 
#30
Slant Hs40-50 engines are tough, because of the tight quarters and the angles.
up, down, left, right, whatever.
The stock intake is like a periscope lol
so anything straighter than that is an improvement

 
#33
I scored this from markus a couple of years ago. Made by GEM, aluminum, forces the exhaust into somewhat of an elbow, but that will be fine for building torque. Intake was hogged out as far as it will go, exhaust less so, RTT exhaust flange, .235 lift (actual) on a MCR cam specially ground. Shroud was destined for the scrap bin, but I was able to weld it back up on my lowest setting. Billet rod and Delray's Briggs and Stratton valve train parts, fresh seat cuts, etc. .010 over new piston and rings. No bike for it yet.

HS40 40-degree Exhaust.JPG
 

Attachments

#34
I thought of trying aluminum but was afraid with the vibration these motors put out with that 245 cam That it would break at the motor....looks good hopes it lasts....
the flanges are 1/4” and the tubing is 1/8” TIG welded. 6061 aluminum.
it’s very sturdy no signs of cracking yet and my bike revs pretty high 6-7000 RPM.

Thanks for the kind words!
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#38
I buy DB30 throttle assemblies on epay. They’re about $12 to $15 each and includes a nice cable. This setup works nicely with most slide carburetors and is smooth and inexpensive. I do change the grips though, to a vintage soft style.
 
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