Thanks to the Forum (New Guy here)

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Robb1313

New Member
#1
#1
New guy here...

I just finished up the Predator install in my DB30, new style. Man, what a shoehorn fit that was. I was able to get the engine new for 100 rounds of 5.56 ammo. And I bought the ammo about 5 years ago!

Using the search here, I found all I needed to get it running. Put a new header and air filter in it, and as expected (due to info here) it ran like crap, with the choke almost all the way on. No problems with the kill -- just had to swap colors on the stock switch. Still need to hook up the low oil sensor.

So, I wound up using a 45 Pilot Jet, and a 101 main jet, with a 140 tube, and it runs like a Bat out of ----!

It sounds like it may be a little rich, I may back off a size on both.

Also had to replace the rear wheel bearings when I first got it, they were shot and clicking.

Next items on the list...

New throttle cable. The stock one just doesn't look like it's handling all the new engine fun!

Exhaust wrap -- MAN THAT'S HOT!!!!

Probably new brakes. Stock brakes stop it, but it's mushy.

I'd appreciate any recommendations on the above --

Here's a couple of pix


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Obligatory pic of the bike




The clearance between the valve cover and the cross frame wasn't sufficient. The plate (from PMR), would not let the engine go forward enough. So, I had to take a hammer and block of wood and bend the cross frame back, (in front of the back tire) back about 1/2 inch.

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Thanks again for all the contributed knowledge, It was a great help!
 
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Robb1313

New Member
#11
#11
Arthur Kill said:
This may come too late but you don't need to cut any stock wires, especially the low oil sensor. To me, that's something you want to keep.

All the info you need is here in plain english, with pics:

http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/doodlebug-minibikes/75876-kill-switch-predator-doodle-bug.html
Click to expand...
I found the wires from the stock switch could be used unmodified. I took the green wire with the lug on it and bolted it to the engine where the engine kill switch is grounded. I took the other end and put in the yellow wire socket, but had to disconnect the low oil sensor in the process. I'll get the two wires together with an adapter.

Both kill switches work, but no low oil sensor.
 
Arthur Kill

Arthur Kill

Member
#12
#12
Robb1313 said:
I found the wires from the stock switch could be used unmodified. I took the green wire with the lug on it and bolted it to the engine where the engine kill switch is grounded. I took the other end and put in the yellow wire socket, but had to disconnect the low oil sensor in the process. I'll get the two wires together with an adapter.

Both kill switches work, but no low oil sensor.
Click to expand...
A goes to A, look at the pics. Twist the end of the black wire coming from the handlebars and tuck it neatly in the black to black connector on the Predator.

On the black to black connector, there's actually a second, shorter piece of insulating plastic just outside the main one -- tuck the wire under that piece first, then under the main insulation and then inside the hollow of the bullet/male end connector and plug it back in. It's really easy and very neat.

Don't even disconnect the low oil yellow wire. Leave it alone.

You end up keeping your low old sensor and your factory kill switch -- and have your handlebar kill switch added in as a second kill switch.

Read through the thread -- you can't miss.
 
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Robb1313

New Member
#13
#13
Jet Sizes

OK -- so I dropped down a jet size. Down to a #96.5 (.38) main and a .40 Pilot jet.

No GO!!

Would only start with starter fluid and die.

So, back to the #101.5 (.40) main and .45 Pilot.
 
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