The 2019 Windber minibike raffle build

#1
It is early but the way things been going i better get to building this bike. It is a 1970 Rupp Sprint
Randy(gumpit) gave me a deal on it and Jeff Mihalko heard about it and purchased the bike for the raffle. Thank you Randy and Jeff. Jeff looked it over and all the hard parts to find were there including the metal chrome clutch cover which is not in the pictures. Karen (Manchester1) is doing the seat for this one. I will be asking a few questions as i go. Decals , grips, correct cables and kill switch who or were can i get them or if anyone wants to donate parts or money to this they are more than welcome. Thank you in advance Rick.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#3
Nice!! those are really fun bikes. I helped another member get one apart and put back together few months ago, did some welding work/corrections on the frame, rebuilt the engine, and put it all back together for him (he had the frame and wheel halves powdered and had the tank and fenders painted while I redid and painted the engine.

Very fun little bike to ride, I liked the feel of it compared to a larger spoke wheeled one actually :thumbsup:

I did a little write up on the engine those used and how it specked out if that helps any, there is info and numbers for the correct diaphragm carb the 3.5 used in that thread which may be of help since it looks like you may need to look for one of those for it.

https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/tecumseh/157788-1970-h35-rupp-sprint.html

heres the bike, Kept it as low budget as we could, with hopes of finding chrome bits that needed recromed or repalaced as they come up, but "finished" and rideable.



Best of luck with it :thumbsup:
 
#4
Good idea to start early. lol I know your not a Rupp guy but Blackwidowmotorsports has most of the parts you need. They also have all the diagrams/part break downs. It is so nice of you to do this for Windber. Thank you Rick
 
#7

This is the chrome chain gaurd for the bike. I have a question about the hole in the bottom edge on the face of the gaurd. Is this suppose to be hete or has someone drilled a hole in it. Thanks Rick
 
#8
Here is another question. Is the side mounting brackets suppose to be bent differently on each side or are they to be the same. The chain clearance would be my thinking as to why they are bent different.
 
#10

This is the chrome chain gaurd for the bike. I have a question about the hole in the bottom edge on the face of the gaurd. Is this suppose to be hete or has someone drilled a hole in it. Thanks Rick
Pretty sure the hole is suppose to be there, just not that big. lol. I had one of those clutch covers I sold but can't find a photo.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#11

This is the chrome chain gaurd for the bike. I have a question about the hole in the bottom edge on the face of the gaurd. Is this suppose to be hete or has someone drilled a hole in it. Thanks Rick
It should be somewhat dimpled, it used a countersink screw with serrated washer (Like the mounting screws for the intake to block on an H50-H70 Tecumseh) with a spacer behind it. It used the bottom rear corner engine side cover mount hole as the attachment point.
 
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#14
That bike ran great even with me on it... it was just so hideous of a paint job nobody could see the diamond in the rough... Can’t wait to see its transformation.
 
#15
I have the bike all torn down now. Called the guy i have been using for chroming and he is still doing chrome plating for older customers only no new clients. So i got lucky and plan on taking all the parts that need to be chromed this coming week. Wheel halves, handle bars, shock halves ,chain gaurd and mount
 
#16
The rear swing arm has some pretty good gouges and grinding marks from the chain.
If i was to weld these areas up and grind them down do you think it would weaken the swing arm from welding on it ?
 
#18
The rear swing arm has some pretty good gouges and grinding marks from the chain.
If i was to weld these areas up and grind them down do you think it would weaken the swing arm from welding on it ?
No. Weld them up. The tiny bit of "flex" you lose in heating, is more than offset by adding the strength of the metal fill. I would not hesitate, and this is what I do.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#20
looks to be more of a cosmetic repair then stress repair. I wonder if just filling it in with brazing material would make it much easier to go back and clean up and then couple lite coats of primer build and your done. weld(mig) would work too. just would have to do little more grinding and make sure you fill it in good without any voids. where the brazing would just puddle out and fill. rick have you gotting down the tig welding yet with your new welder?
 

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