The OX . . . 2

KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#1
This project was inspired by the Rokon two wheel drive vehicle I liked its design but it was to expensive for me
so I am going to attempt to build a slightly more powerful heavier larger version pictures to follow
thanks for viewing
 
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KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#6

The heart of the front drive this jackshaft mounted overrunning clutch the front ratio will spin it's driveline faster than the rear tire ratio hopefully the front will stay disengauged until the rear wheel starts to slip making this bike more of an AWD vs 2WD
 
#8
Nice overrunning clutch! Where did you source it?

The ratios dont have to be different front to rear.... both of my bikes are the same front to back and ride fine. It works because the front wheel always travels in a larger radius than the rear when turning, therefore the rear wheels rotational speed can never exceed that of the front (until you lose traction).
 

KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#9
Thank you that is the most valuable tidbit of information on this subject yet .!! I found this clutch on ebay it is a high end unit designed for more power than I can ever give it this company supplies these to aerospace companies this one was removed from a decommissioned machine so I got it at a reasonable price just look up "formsprag" for simular products
 
#10
I used a pto overrunning coupler on my big bike like this: Over Riding Clutch 1-3/8 Female X 1-3/8 Male | Agri Supply
I had to modify it, and it has a little more "drag" when freewheeling than I'd like, but the price was right and it also is extreme overkill strength wise.

That clutch should be very smooth with very little friction. I bet you won't be able to tell a difference in the way it rides with the front chain on or off. However, you will notice some funky handlebar feedback when offroading and the front is actually pulling.
 
#11
You will really start racking your brain when figuring out rake and trail. Just remember that with extremely fat round shoulder tires the effective rolling diameter get smaller as you lean into a turn and the contact patch with the ground moves up the sidewall. The problem is that you can get into a negative trail situation in a turn and the handlebars quit trying to return to center and try to spin around backwards. Although, your tires seem a little squarer than mine, so maybe itwon't be much of an issue.
 

KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#12
I used a pto overrunning coupler on my big bike like this: Over Riding Clutch 1-3/8 Female X 1-3/8 Male | Agri Supply
I had to modify it, and it has a little more "drag" when freewheeling than I'd like, but the price was right and it also is extreme overkill strength wise.

That clutch should be very smooth with very little friction. I bet you won't be able to tell a difference in the way it rides with the front chain on or off. However, you will notice some funky handlebar feedback when offroading and the front is actually pulling.
I looked at those tractor pto units one of the reasons they use them is say you are mowing and you need to stop the tractor fast and you pull back the throttle and hit the brake the momentum of the mower blades will continue to drive the transmission like a giant flywheel making it hard to stop. I looked at these but couldn't get past the splines and how to adapt them so I got this one 3/4" female input 1" male output . The idea of making the front wheel sprocket 1-2 teeth larger actually would turn the bike into rear wheel drive until the rear wheel lost traction and started spinning maybe this would also help with any weird handlebar feedback . I got the idea from the cristini AWD motorcycles. I'm not saying any of these ideas will actually work the way I plan but this is what I'm thinking
 
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#13
I cut the male splined shaft off the pto unit and welded on 1" keyed shaft. I also welded 1" keyed shaft into the female part.

Also, if you don't mind what manual clutch were you planning on using? I'm always brewing ideas for future projects.
 

KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#14
I cut the male splined shaft off the pto unit and welded on 1" keyed shaft. I also welded 1" keyed shaft into the female part.

Also, if you don't mind what manual clutch were you planning on using? I'm always brewing ideas for future projects.
Well I have this clutch that we all know had heat issues but if used to just engage or disengauge a drive system it my be fine

This is the supposedly improved version that is basically a manually operated 2 disk clutch rather than using flyweight I don't see any reason that this wouldn't work this basic design has been used in kart racing for a very long time
 
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KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#15
Ok I got the over running clutch in the mail today I was hoping the output shaft was 1" but it turns out that it really is 1 3/8" so I tried to order a sprocket for it but it turns out that I was only able to find a sprocket that uses #40 chain so staying with the heavy duty theme I may use #40 chain on everything on this project

The action of this clutch is very smooth and precise
 
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#17
I've been thinking about a similar project myself, but have decided to go a different route with two rear tires driving in tandem - small than what you have chosen. Maybe 22". Still undecided, either way I am super excited to follow your project!
 

KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#18
Just ordered a a few gear boxes their are simpler ways to to make this driveline with less parts but I am going for bullet proof because this build is is meant to be used in the desert mountain ranges with support very far away.
 
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KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#19
And the parts collection goes on my overrunning clutch has a 1 3/8 output shaft and that required getting a 22 tooth sprocket that uses #40 chain the next challenge is the clutch has a 3/16 keyway and the sprocket has a 1/4 keyway so to make the clutch work I need 1 3/8 shaft spacers a 3/16 to 1/4 step key and a snap ring that's not to bad. Anyway the parts collection goes on
 
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