The OX . . . 2

#23
can't get enough of this build. You should put part numbers and site location for each part. I am personally more interested in a tandem rear drive system, but still be nice to know what is being used and from where.
 

KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#24
In line set up would be a hell of a lot easier and possibly better :) but if you want a list of my parts as I collect them then ok
94c duster clutch and parts Snowmobile Parts, Go Kart Parts, Lawnmower Parts, ATV Parts, and more | MFG Supply
U joint Surplus Center
Tires sedona ripsaw ATV Parts, ATV Tires, Dirt Bike Parts, Motocross Gear, Motorcycle parts and Motorcycle Tires | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Wheel hubs 4 on 4" Snowmobile Parts, Go Kart Parts, Lawnmower Parts, ATV Parts, and more | MFG Supply
Formsprag over running clutch ebay user lazyone0
Sprockets ebay
Gearboxes 40 hp ebay user carnellsales
3/4 jackshaft ebay user stevbmi
3/16 to 1/4 step key ebay user nichefastener
ITP Delta steel 12 x 7 wheel 4 on 4" Jeep Accessories & Jeep Parts for the Wrangler, Cherokee, & Liberty | 4wd.com
13hp predator engine harbor freight tools
 
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#26
That could be a cool idea, I think I would at least like to see it. I do think I might pose an issue turning side by side like that.

Something to think about maybe dually in the and a single wider tire in the front.

I would like to see the posts as to why not do it there seems to be some pretty good engineers here.
 

KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#27
Well in my limited experience the reason NOT to go single front and dual rear is because if you are sideways on a hill it will point you to the bottom of the hill in a hurry the wider the rear the more it will want to do this. The reason NOT to go dual front and rear is mostly because it will require more steering effort and I imagine in turns it would be somewhat resistant to tilt to the inside tires. But at least you wouldn't need a kickstand :laugh: but this is meant to be a slow speed crawler so maybe it won't matter. I guess it would operate like a steam roller. I don't know I kind of like the idea of having a 22" contact patch front and rear yet still being slightly narrower than the handlebars. It would improve its ability in sand and it may make it float in water crossings even though this bike was intended for dessert use
 
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KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#29
On the subject of running 3 tires 2 rear and one front I was thinking if the 2 on the rear were mashed together that would be 22" contact patch so if you centered the front tire the outside edges would be 5 1/2" different maybe the horrible trike effect wouldn't be so bad . I also thought of getting a wider single front tire but the widest I could find was only 1" wider than a single rear and it is a different style than the rears.
Today I ordered a different universal joint because on my application one side needs to be 1" and the other needs to be 3/4" so my unused 3/4 to 3/4 u joint may be for sale soon
 
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KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#32
I'm reloading some images because photobucket has recent changed their terms in a bad way so I needed to find a different image hosting service
 

KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#33
So far I haven't done anything that requires any craftsmanship but once my key arrives I will have to make choice if I can step grind the key or open up the key slot on a rather expensive overrunning clutch ..... stay tuned
 

KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#34
After 2 hours armed with only a file these parts almost fit together due to the custom 3/16 x 5/16 step key. I will finish this key this weekend
this it the 1st thing I have done to this project that requires any craftsmanship previous to this I was just collecting parts
 
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KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#35
If there is a 3/16 x 5/16 step key I sure couldn't find one so 2 days work later using only a file and my hands I willed this one into being lol
 
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KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#37
Currently the drive train will be similar to the rokon a standard torque converter to a jackshaft from that jack shaft a chain will go to the rear swing arm sprocket just like a suspended standard minibike . Also on the main jackshaft will be the overrunning clutch with a sprocket on it it will drive a overhead 90 deg. Gearbox the other end of that gearbox will be coupled to a drive shaft the other end of the shaft will be a universal joint connected to another 90 deg. Box on the front forks the output of that box will have a sprocket that drives another sprocket at the front suspension's pivot point and from there drive the front axle . Just like Rokons autograb forks so in a nut shell it will be similar to Rokons design except mine will be much more heavy duty and will not have a high low transmission or shear pins and will weigh alot built as more of a tractor work horse than a fun exploring machine with heavy emphasis on dependability
 
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