The Ultimate Off Road Bonanza Build Returns

bryan, could I ask what your jetting is on your 24mm Mikuni? I had mine running perfectly with no bog off the bottom when I crack the throttle open but since it warmed up and I changed my Pushrods (shorter) I got the bog back again. Mind that the temp difference was about 18 degrees hotter when the bog came back. Right now I have the jetting as 20 pilot (2 turns out) 140 main and stock needle at middle clip setting.
I’m not 100% sure I’m running what it came with and haven’t checked what jets is has. It’s pretty close right out of the box for me but it still needs a little fine tuning I’ll post in here when I get around to jetting it
 
Couple updates. I had to build a new sprocket hub. My old one failed it completely tore apart I was putting too much power into it. On the new one I welded a 1/4 plate to the mounting side of it and gusseted to where the sprocket bolts. I also am running a aluminum sprocket adapter to space out the sprocket to clear the tire a little better and allow me to use one of these 60t steel sprockets with the 4 hole bolt pattern. I then drilled out the sprocket to also accept the 6 hole bolt pattern so that this sprocket was bolted down tight and will never flex or move. Also probably the biggest mod to my chain drive system was the addition of a chain guide. Works great and I haven’t been able to throw the chain. This will allow me to run the chain a little looser so I’m not putting too much pressure on my jackshaft and wheel bearings C68BF401-604C-4845-9DF2-815B7448F182.jpeg A0D4EC95-6A64-4598-A8B4-E3D2041B895D.jpeg AB40E246-5F83-4E9E-8877-2E48A1B18E32.jpeg
 
Many of the 24 mm flatslides that I have come with a 100 main and a 30 pilot jet. But I have seen a wide variance in the needle, like I said before. My best results have come from trying a new carb first, then determining what direction the netting needs to go. If you have a bike/ carb that is easy to swap jets on, use it as a test mule. Jet it too rich, and then back it off until it runs best. Much better to actually learn this than to aimlessly try everyone else's combination, imho. Lots and lots of jetting tutorials around. Needle changes (raising and lowering) impact the largest section of the rpm range, and it's easy to do. Starting there can give you an idea of the direction you need to go. Get needle and main jet working well, then dial in the air or fuel screw setting with the pilot jet for most rpm at idle with least throttle valve opening, and a steady idle. That should get you really close. I have several dozen jets, jet drills, and a magnifying glass to read the tiny numbers. Guessing at jetting is just plain frustrating. Add a vaccuum leak, or bad spark in to the mix and you have a tuning nightmare.
 
Nice looking work, Bryan! I really like those sunf tires. What jackshaft gear are you running? It seems like the tavs come with a 10 tooth gear on the driver. I still have the stock 50 tooth on my rear, but I think I am running an 8 or 9 tooth gear on my tav. Lots of really nice work on your bike. I hope you get a shot at the gambler 500 this year. Too far to run for me, in Central KY. TONS of good places to ride here, though. Thanks for sharing most of your secrets!
 
Nice looking work, Bryan! I really like those sunf tires. What jackshaft gear are you running? It seems like the tavs come with a 10 tooth gear on the driver. I still have the stock 50 tooth on my rear, but I think I am running an 8 or 9 tooth gear on my tav. Lots of really nice work on your bike. I hope you get a shot at the gambler 500 this year. Too far to run for me, in Central KY. TONS of good places to ride here, though. Thanks for sharing most of your secrets!
I have an 11 tooth on the jackshaft to the rear wheel
 
Well the bad news is out. They canceled the race for this year. So it look like I won’t be getting to race this year which really sucks. But it does give me even more time to work on the bike. It’s pretty much done but I do have a lot of small things to button up
 
Well the bad news is out. They canceled the race for this year. So it look like I won’t be getting to race this year which really sucks. But it does give me even more time to work on the bike. It’s pretty much done but I do have a lot of small things to button up
Sorry to hear this! Maybe a year off can stiffen the competition. I don't see John and Ike having a contender that can match the time and effort of your build, and it would probably take deep pockets and a sponsorship of some kind to overcome your beautiful work. I look forward to more! Thanks for sharing!
 
Sorry to hear this! Maybe a year off can stiffen the competition. I don't see John and Ike having a contender that can match the time and effort of your build, and it would probably take deep pockets and a sponsorship of some kind to overcome your beautiful work. I look forward to more! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks it’s been a fun build and will be tough to beat. I’ve done what I can with what I have. I may build a custom frame one day in the future for another project but this will do for now
 
I’m planning on building a track and having some friends over the day the race would have been so we can still all do something similar. It wouldn’t be a huge track but we have 6 acres of land to build something on and I think it would be fun to do a 100 lap race
 
I’m planning on building a track and having some friends over the day the race would have been so we can still all do something similar. It wouldn’t be a huge track but we have 6 acres of land to build something on and I think it would be fun to do a 100 lap race
Well, you live in Petaluma so DON'T be running over any ARTICHOKES. I love dem things.
 

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Sweet build - mini bike looks really good.

Did you get it tuned in yet jetting wise. I was also wondering what tav belt # are you running 203591? Also what’s ur rear sprocket size?
 
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