Throttle stuck open

#1
I got this Coleman CT200-U last week, I have fixed the other problems it has, except the throttle is stuck open. In my picture, for some reason the governer arm is always on full throttle. Could it be the springs? I have new ones on the way. Could it be the throttle cable itself? When I start the bike up and push the governor arm to the left, my rear wheels stops spinning and I can turn off the choke. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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#3
Your Governor spring is in the wrong location. It should be connected like the drawing in the picture I made for you.
Thank you, that is the way the kid I got it from had it hooked up, I didn't think it looked right running behind there, I'm getting a new springs tomorrow. Hopefully the new spring plus it being routed correctly fixes the take off and choke issue.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#6
Looks like the throttle spring got jammed in back of the blower housing. Or did they have it purposely hooked onto that upper blower housing bolt?

After you fix it start the bike and test it with the back tire off the ground for safety.
 
#7
They had it hooked up correctly to the hole on the bottom of the lever, they just had it routed behind that panel. I've had it on jack stands practically since I got it. With it being routed behind there, would that cause it to accelerate on it's own? Initially I thought it was the governer arm, but I've read it supposed to have the throttle the whole way open when its off.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#8
They had it hooked up correctly to the hole on the bottom of the lever, they just had it routed behind that panel. I've had it on jack stands practically since I got it. With it being routed behind there, would that cause it to accelerate on it's own? Initially I thought it was the governer arm, but I've read it supposed to have the throttle the whole way open when its off.
Yes that will cause an over rev once the choke is opened after you start it. They weren't careful when they put the blower housing back on. You can remove the top bolt, then loosen the other 3 to try to free up the throttle spring. Once free it may be ok if it didn't get too bent up.

Also... Once the throttle spring is unjammed don't concern yourself with the gov/throttle position on the carb. Once you start the engine and open the choke the governor will pull the throttle to idle if all is well.
 
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#9
Awesome glad to hear that is probably the problem. I have a brand new spring coming tomorrow, so I'll find out then and post an update. My daughter will be so happy if this thing gets running. I picked it up fairly cheap because I wanted to learn about fixing small engines. Thank you for your time and help, people here are nice, I didn't have such luck with the people on some facebook groups.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#10
We're happy to help.

And check the oil. You never know how the former owner left it. Any hint of blackness change it. 16 oz of any decent quality 10w30 oil should do it. Don't over fill.
 
#11
We're happy to help.

And check the oil. You never know how the former owner left it. Any hint of blackness change it. 16 oz of any decent quality 10w30 oil should do it. Don't over fill.
I've already changed the oil. It isnt black but it is kind of gray already just from me messing around with it.
 
#12
That's funny I bought one with the same problem they tried to by pass governor and locked it wide open I took all the linkage off a spare motor that idles fine and put on but it still wouldn't idle down even with no throttle cable hooked up and everything moves free I even put a stock carb on that has the spring around the butterfly and still wouldn't idle down so I added a small spring to hold the governor arm back and solved the problem
Question is does that mean the governor is not working I turned the throttle stop way in just in case and once I figure out this tach I'll turn it out
 

Cuda54

Active Member
#13
Sounds like you might have to readjust the governor. They could have moved it when they tried to by pass it. Move it the way the spring is holding it and remove the spring. Move it till it idles and then see if it works on wide open throttle.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#14
That's funny I bought one with the same problem they tried to by pass governor and locked it wide open I took all the linkage off a spare motor that idles fine and put on but it still wouldn't idle down even with no throttle cable hooked up and everything moves free I even put a stock carb on that has the spring around the butterfly and still wouldn't idle down so I added a small spring to hold the governor arm back and solved the problem
Question is does that mean the governor is not working I turned the throttle stop way in just in case and once I figure out this tach I'll turn it out
Sounds to me like they have the governor out. You can run with all the stock linkage parts with the governor out if you add a spring to hold light pressure on the governor arm that pulls away from the carb. The throttle screw can be turned in pretty far and you will still get full throttle on the carb. You can visually test this with the engine off. Look for the throttle on the carb to be at idle and check for full throttle while the engine is off. Then test it running with the back wheel off the ground.

I would never run this way. If I did I would use 2 light tension springs to hold the governor arm. If one spring breaks the other is there for backup. This is why I use 2 throttle return springs on my mini bike clone engines. One push type worm spring on the cable and a spring on the manual throttle assembly. And if I expected to be running more than 4500 RPM I would get a rod and flywheel to handle it safely.
 
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#15
Now that makes sense I never thought about that the very first thing I did was drain the oil and screen it looking for little white bits and found none thought that was good news but when I put the torque converter on I noticed the jackshift plate had locktite on the bolts
So maybe they did open it up and take the gear out
Think I'm gonna swap motors just to be safe until I open this one up and see what's in there
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#16
Now that makes sense I never thought about that the very first thing I did was drain the oil and screen it looking for little white bits and found none thought that was good news but when I put the torque converter on I noticed the jackshift plate had locktite on the bolts
So maybe they did open it up and take the gear out
Think I'm gonna swap motors just to be safe until I open this one up and see what's in there
If you have stock gearing (10 tooth and 50 tooth) with the torque converter you could safely run the engine with the governor removed because RPM at top speed does not get high enough to be a concern. The top speed and RPM would be identical whether the governor was installed or not. This is especially true if the engine is governed with the throttle screw backed out.
 
#17
Guess I gotta test it and see they did run it enuff to wear the brake shoes completely out so I ordered a 60t figured while I was putting shoes on with the tire off might as well.....
I did get a tach to so I can check it just gotta find a kid to program it haha
Looking for go low end power to old to hit trees at 40 mph anymore where I ride is tight and hilly
 
#18
I had the exact thing happen to my friends CT200U-EX yesterday. If the throttle stop screw is removed, you can twist the throttle grip too far and the nylon cable ring in the grip will bind! It is NOT round. And will bind in the cast aluminum housing. A few seconds with a Dremel Tool removed the "wedged-in" edge of the nylon ring and all is well today. No extra spring needed and it works perfectly.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#19
I had the exact thing happen to my friends CT200U-EX yesterday. If the throttle stop screw is removed, you can twist the throttle grip too far and the nylon cable ring in the grip will bind! It is NOT round. And will bind in the cast aluminum housing. A few seconds with a Dremel Tool removed the "wedged-in" edge of the nylon ring and all is well today. No extra spring needed and it works perfectly.
I should clarify what I said about backing the screw out. Back the screw out a few turns. If you back it out too far or remove it the push spring on the throttle cable will bind. If you wish to take it further you can trim the push spring down to shorten it and remove the bind. You can add the Honda style manual throttle return spring that is not there on the Colemans. This spring helps return it to idle and makes a nice backup return spring.

The Honda type spring is to the left of the throttle screw in the picture. The push spring in the picture is completely relaxed. Rapidrob, your Greyhound should have the Honda type spring.
 

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