throttles and rods

#1
I installed a ARC rod in my 6.5 clone, but i didn't have a torque wrench :doah: so i just kept tightening them. The last time I tightened them, they seemed easier than the last push of the wrench. I am afraid it will blow up... what should i do?



On a side note. I bought a throttle hook up from Nr-Racing, the black one with the bearing. I was setting it up when I realized that the cable they supplied only had a knarp on one end. Then I tool the throttle control on the handlebars apart, to find that it needs one in there. what should i do?
 
#2
I installed a ARC rod in my 6.5 clone, but i didn't have a torque wrench :doah: so i just kept tightening them. The last time I tightened them, they seemed easier than the last push of the wrench. I am afraid it will blow up... what should i do?



On a side note. I bought a throttle hook up from Nr-Racing, the black one with the bearing. I was setting it up when I realized that the cable they supplied only had a knarp on one end. Then I tool the throttle control on the handlebars apart, to find that it needs one in there. what should i do?
It sounds like you might have stripped the threads in the rod. They were supposed to be torqued to 160 in-lbs. If you were lucky enough to have not caused damage to the rod, I would buy an in-lbs torque wrench from Harbor Freight ( I believe they cost about $15.00).
 
#3
I installed a ARC rod in my 6.5 clone, but i didn't have a torque wrench :doah: so i just kept tightening them. The last time I tightened them, they seemed easier than the last push of the wrench. I am afraid it will blow up... what should i do?



On a side note. I bought a throttle hook up from Nr-Racing, the black one with the bearing. I was setting it up when I realized that the cable they supplied only had a knarp on one end. Then I tool the throttle control on the handlebars apart, to find that it needs one in there. what should i do?


I don't want to sound cruel but if you don't have a torque wrench you shouldn't have taken it apart in the first place, period. Take it out again and see how the threads look, if there ok find a torque wrench this time and re-assemble if you don't have a inch pound torque wrench it's ok to use a foot pound wrench. The equivalent of 170 inch pounds is 14 1/2 foot pounds....I just went strait to 15. If any thing on these engines need to be torqued to specifications it's the rod bolts, it's rather dangerous to try to cut corners when replacing rods.
 
#4
I installed a ARC rod in my 6.5 clone, but i didn't have a torque wrench :doah: so i just kept tightening them. The last time I tightened them, they seemed easier than the last push of the wrench. I am afraid it will blow up... what should i do?



On a side note. I bought a throttle hook up from Nr-Racing, the black one with the bearing. I was setting it up when I realized that the cable they supplied only had a knarp on one end. Then I tool the throttle control on the handlebars apart, to find that it needs one in there. what should i do?
There are three ways the rod goes on. Too tight and the bolts and washers snap off. Not tight enough will work if you catch it after break in or it'll get jam up. Or you get it right on. Best to stick w/ the installation instructions and at the least use lube and walk the bolts on and off a couple of times to get it to seat.

Don't know what to make of your throttle but i know walmart sells a $5.00 throttle kit with assorted cables. might have one in there that'll work.
 
#7
Well it depends. Break in to you may not be what it is to someone else. Do you modify your motor, fill it with fuel and oil, then immediately jump on it WOT?

from my Automotive Engine Repair classes, they say to take it easy for 200 miles, so like two full tanks for small engines. This process is to properly seat the bushings and rings.
 
#8
about your rod bolts, arp makes studs loctite the studs in and torque the nuts properly, loctite should hold studs in even if slightly damaged threads
 
#9
from my Automotive Engine Repair classes, they say to take it easy for 200 miles, so like two full tanks for small engines. This process is to properly seat the bushings and rings.
Sound like a lot of reason to go riding and sound advice too.
 
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#12
I have no idea, I was just going to re-tap it if the threads were messed up. The studs do sound like a good idea, but the loctite and aluminum has me kind of weary.
 
#13
First off stop. DONT touch anything else. Take a 20% off coupon down to Harbor Freight and buy there 1/4" torque wrench. Also if you don't have one pick up a 12 point socket set in standard.

If the threads are stripped buy a new rod. The rod has been designed to work the way it is. Re-drilling and tapping the holes that you hosed out will compromise the rods integrity by decreasing the area around the holes.

If you didn't hose the threads re-tighten as per the instructions you got with the rod.

At this point you are asking for trouble not having a torque wrench. Really having a blown motor because you didn't do something correctly. Ask yourself is it really worth injuring yourself?

HF 20% off coupon http://www.harborfreightusa.com/html/MagazineLanders/2-boat/images/20_c.jpg

Or get a 3/8" drive for $9.99 but you will have to convert inch pounds to pounds for torquing. http://www.harborfreightusa.com/html/MagazineLanders/4-motorcycle/images/14.jpg
 
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#14
I have no idea, I was just going to re-tap it if the threads were messed up. The studs do sound like a good idea, but the loctite and aluminum has me kind of weary.
Yea, i would go with your gut instinct. If you think it's damaged well maybe you can reuse the bearings. If your motor is not modifed beyond removing the governor and using stock valve springs the stock rod will work fine. FYI, these motors are ran on thousands of race karts across the country almost weekly at 5500- 6000 rpms with stock rods and flywheels. There is no evidence in anyway shape or form to indicate that your life would be in any more danger than a kart racer who has the same modifications as you do. The stock springs itself act as a rev limiter and sitting upright on a minibike w/ very limited aerodynamics makes it that much harder to rev it higher. Good luck.
 
#15
You know I don't think enough people these days have seen shit come apart.

AH the golden age of karting when the only parts left to reuse on you MC were the points because you used a mav switch. And the rest of the engine was shrapnel all over the track.....
 
#17
People forget....

You know back in the day the life expectency of a West bend, MC, Clinton was measured in hours. A little tuning could extract a lot power from a big saw engine and they rev. MAN could they rev.

But the candle that burns twice as bright burns half as long. More so in some cases
 
#18
from my Automotive Engine Repair classes, they say to take it easy for 200 miles, so like two full tanks for small engines. This process is to properly seat the bushings and rings.
2 tanks of gas? pffffff IMHO i say take it easy for maybe a half hour or 45 minutes of riding change the oil and beat the hell out of it.

in your case i would torque it right go 10-15 minutes check torque figure if it is good. new oil 45 minute new oil beat it
 
#20
Tighten each bolt w/a torque wrench to approx, 60in/lbs and then alternate back and forth between bolts adding 20 in/lbs to each side until you reach 150in/lbs. Back the bolts back down to 100 in/lbs then re-torque, again alternating 20 in/lbs side to side until you reach 150 in/lbs if you use moly lube or 170 in/lbs if you used oil.
 
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