Timing Help!!!

#1
I am rebuilding an H25 from 1967. There is no timing mark on the crank and there are no beveled teeth on it either. I tried lining the timing mark on the cam to the tooth on the crank that is lined up with the key but the engine will not start. It will pop now and then but won't start. I have checked everything else many times and still, the only thing that I can think of is the timing. It has a new carb on it also and I have spark. Everything checks out. As far as I know, I was the first person to open the engine up since it was new.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#2
centerline of the gear key is where the mark on the cam lines up on the early small frame H series. All original parts inside (camshaft)? If it had the bypass hole on the exhaust valve seat it needs to have the corresponding Non compression release camshaft in it. If all thats good, you need to look elsewhere.

This is pre 69 H crank and no CR cam.....
IMG_2466.JPG

Here is what the compression bypass block looks like they used in a lot of the later 1960's small frame H (the little triangle in the EX seat), This one is a 1968 H35 I am currently reworking. h35 inside.jpg
 
#3
That is the way I lined it up. What else could it be? I rebuilt two of them and the other one runs just fine. I will look at it when I get home to see which block I have. I reused everything that was in it.
 
#5
Did you set the timing to the proper setting? 0.065 BTDC--I've had a heck of a time with my 69 Tec H35, also. Runs then dies.
Yes, it is set at 0.065 BTDC. It is driving me crazy. It pops but won't start. It really acts like it is out of time but when I check everything I can't find the problem. I rebuilt an identical engine right after this one and it runs great.
 
#7
It’s the silly little things…is your key new and straight? Any nics in you coil wires?
The key is good and the coil is new. I also have a great spark. I keep going over it in my head and checking everything, that is why I asked everyone. I need some other brains. I have been thinking about it for so long that I know I am missing something but I can't figure out what it is.
 

mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#10
The key is good and the coil is new. I also have a great spark. I keep going over it in my head and checking everything, that is why I asked everyone. I need some other brains. I have been thinking about it for so long that I know I am missing something but I can't figure out what it is.
Swap the carb from the other running engine?
 

desert rat

Well-Known Member
#12
I'm just going to toss this out, could the coil be flipped around. I have seen this on some motor in the past. I think it was a replacement coil that had just been installed. The spark timing changed by flipping it.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#14
couple of years ago when some of the "experts" kept telling everyone to go to TDC to set points on here I made this video for whoever was having problems getting the timing set. I tried to include some of the issues I have had and seen along the way like with aftermarket parts etc.... Its not a great video by any means, but was enough for one of the Experts to plagiarize and correct most of his bad info on his site within like 24 hours (that happens a lot) and the other I think just deleted his/her post, so it cant be that bad?

 
#15
So far everything I have tried hasn't worked. The engine pops like it wants to start but nothing. I rechecked everything and put another carb on it but nothing again.
 
#16
couple of years ago when some of the "experts" kept telling everyone to go to TDC to set points on here I made this video for whoever was having problems getting the timing set. I tried to include some of the issues I have had and seen along the way like with aftermarket parts etc.... Its not a great video by any means, but was enough for one of the Experts to plagiarize and correct most of his bad info on his site within like 24 hours (that happens a lot) and the other I think just deleted his/her post, so it cant be that bad?

Thank you for posting this Markus
This video helped me in the past, nothing is measured at TDC.
“high side of the points cam” is fine.
Then the multimeter test is done at the proper height BTDC as specified in the manual.
This method always works for me.
 
#20
Back to the basics...any grit on the valve seats, proper tappet clearance, use soapy water to check for head gasket leaks. Turn engine backwards and listen at the ports for leakage through the valves. If your cylinder is worn out of round the new rings could be allowing too much compression blow by. If you can spin the engine with a drill to get it running the rings may seat enough to get it going with the pull start. Did you stagger the ring gaps during assembly?
 
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