Today's findings...

#1
I put the tach on my motor today. I was hitting almost 28MPH with a modified throttle return spring. Don't remember how many coils I cut out. 3 or 4 I think. With motor out of bike I am hitting 5060 RPMs. My conclusion is don't modify the return spring. I was able to adjust the governor speed by screwing the throttle stop screw back in. Have it adjusted at about 4K now. Will see how it dose when motor is back in the bike. Just thought I would share this for any one thinking of modding there return spring on there Coleman CT200U or any Honda/clone. I swapped the stock rod out for a BSP when I upgraded my piston and I only had about 30 minutes of good riding on the motor with the return spring cut and not much time on motor before that. Maybe a total of 1+ hour on a new motor with brake in and riding. The stock rod was already showing signs of wear from high RPM already. I did not check crank but rod has light scuff marks on it.
 

noseoil

Active Member
#2
With the TAV 30 & gearing on my old Warrior type (MB165, factory rear sprocket, 19" tires) I'm limited by the power it makes. I had changed the spring location on the governor setting to get a few more revs, but it's still working properly & limits speed as it should, just faster, 4200 rpm max. This will destroy the factory rod eventually if run like this for too long. My best speed run of 52 mph was limited by the wind resistance, at about 4000 rpm. I was tucked in as tightly as possible & as soon as I sat up, the revs began to drop due to wind loading. Max rpm with new jetting, air filter mod, bored carb & open header is 4,000 now & it just can't make more hp the way it's set up to turn more rpms. For a basically stock motor, it's doing pretty well. The new motor should do a bit better!
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#3
Thanks guys. The more posts I read the more I want to get a billet rod. It's a great upgrade even if you don't want or need a ton of RPM.

I still think trimming down the return spring is a good idea. It's just too long from the get go. And like you said, just limit RPM with the screw.
 
#4
I just take gov out and leave stock,use a tiny tac to monitor as i ride run up to 4300-4500 and then let off and cruise at 3300 to 3900 ...I've gotten use to how eng sounds only needing to glance at the tac at high revs before i let off..been a year and a half,engine has really gotten quicker lately..guess coz getting loosened up..no ill sounds or anything..got a 212 hemi in a box when this starts getting noisy...even if was so inclined to dump money and time in an engine it'll wear out anyway..just the way i roll..:laugh:
 
#5
Thanks guys. The more posts I read the more I want to get a billet rod. It's a great upgrade even if you don't want or need a ton of RPM.

I still think trimming down the return spring is a good idea. It's just too long from the get go. And like you said, just limit RPM with the screw.
I have a +.20 rod and can say it is a very nice piece. I think it would be a great addition to even a stock motor. Not 100% but it looks like it ejects oil on to the cam. Its going in another motor I am waiting on parts for. A billet rod for this motor would be great.

My next motor is being built for torque. Waiting on parts for it right now. I hope when I do get a converter I don't hit a power wall. I want it to run out of power because it is exceeding the RPM I built if for not because it dose not have enough power in the RPM range I built it for. If this happens and it might, than I will have to build it better :devil2: Going to toy with this stock motor for a while though. Next week when I get motor back in bike I will let you all know how the piston worked out. I hope it gained some low end torque from it. Will probably try out the header too while I am there. Still debating on if I should take header to work and cut and weld it so I can run my brigs muffler or not. Was thinking of cutting the last 8" off the pipe and welding on a coupler. I want muffler to fit in frame and not stick out the side is why I want to cut so short. This still leaves header about 11" long. Its the GoPowerSports header that exits out opposite side...

As I write this I decided I am cutting off the last 8" I am going to weld a fitting on to the piece I cut so I can thread it back in to the header and run it full length open header or with the muffler :punk:
 
Last edited:
Top