Tote Goat rebuild questions

#1
First... I have no idea what model.... Its square in back with the tubing just sticking out (one page says its a 675, another it looks like a 403)... Not a shaft drive, chain drive to rear wheel and another shorter chain, and a belt sheave
I just want to rebuild it well enough to haul game. It has no engine and that one jackshaft with the chain to the rear wheel and a big sheave on the other end.
Looking at pictures up here, it appears I am missing a few more "parts" than the engine. Has anyone coupled up one of these "symmetrical" torque converter units up to a goat? (and is this the way to go) Or.... could some one steer me to some still available drive train parts (I assume what I am missing here is some sort of variable belt drive).
I don't care about "restoring" (keeping it original) as much as making it useable.
thanks
 
#4
Calling Richard Trotter....

Seriously, he is the expert on these.

The bike in my post I just picked up last week and I am learning about it too. Mine has an old Briggs 3hp, and I think I got lucky in the only thing really missing is the seat.

The secondary clutch on yours is symmetrical, meaning both halves of the clutches are angled. This means a standard Comet 20 or 40 style clutch driver would work, then you need to measure the distance center to center of the crank to the secondary clutch to get the belt length. There are charts on the web for belt length.

As far as engine, not sure but probably had a 3-5hp...

I would wait until Richard sees this, or post some more and PM him after you have 5 posts.

Then again, that may not be a Tote Gote. The rounded lower frame front looks a lot like a Baldwin....
 
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#5
Like Stangcr1 said, this may not be a Tote Gote. To me, it looks like a Balzer (close relative) but the 2 speed jackshaft has been replaced. The belt sheave looks like it uses a narrower belt than a 7/8" wide tote gote belt. So a Comet 20 clutch may work for you. Large motors aren't necessary because of the low gearing.
 
#7
secondary (driven) sheave

The sheave is a "DEEPCO MAXIMATIC" and looks pretty narrow.
I'm assuming (please correct me if I'm wrong) I would be better off with a wider belt.... and would be better off buying a "driver" and a "driven" with the belt from the same company (again I assume I can give them the ratio, shaft sizes and shaft to shaft distance and get some minibike supply to ship me the correct setup (yes? No? dreaming?.. anybody I should contact at a specific vendor)? I'm looking at a used Honda 5hp GX today... or I'm going with the Chinese "predator" if I can't get a good deal on a Honda.
Again, thanks all
 
#8
Tote Gote, Blazer, ??

OK.. I'm half blind now looking at all the great Gote & Blazer (& & & ) pictures... and I can't find a one that looks like this frame (big round front and all). There has been some welding on the front head.. so maybe it isn't the strongest design out there.... The front is def. different from anything I can find on the web...
 
#9
Motor mount area looks strange. Mount holes too wide for any regular flathead. Must have had an engine plate in there....

I did find one pic with a similar front. Called the Prospector, made in Colorado. Not the same though.

For the clutch, measure between the sheaves of the Deepco. How wide at the top of the V. Inside the V, not outside.

In my top pic above, the belt is 7/8" wide. See where the belt is riding in the clutch? That is where to measure.
 
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#10
3/4" maximatic driven

Its 3/4", (def not 7/8")....
It was suggested I could use a Comet 20 (which I probably will)... but the downhill holding wont be as good... (I'll put a disk brake on that shaft I guess).... I wonder why someone doesn't make a "speed" sensitive vs all the "torque" type.... (and I wonder how my Polaris has that downhill hill braking mode).... pondering.. pondering...
and yes... there is an engine plate.... with the "new" old Honda 4 hp going to be bolted to....
tnx
 
#11
re: prospector

Never could find a picture of a "prospector"....
Closest I can find is this "Baldwin Trail Cycle... At least the front looks close (lower anyway)... rounded undercarriage... but my forks arent bent back, the handlebars are different, and the back is totally different :)
So I'm kinda wondering if this is a back-yard special (maybe someone totaled an old Gote and had wya too much time on their hands.
 
#13
I think a comet 20 is a good choice. The small pulley on the jackshaft was for the brake( a piece of v-belt was attached to a metal strap and pulled tight by the brake cable). I guess 'Blazer' because its like the frame in this picture.
 
#14
Its a cool little bike. Did you find the serial # on the headstock? I couldn't identify mine 100% buy I did get the year. That might give you another piece to the puzzle at least. Check out my build, might give you some ideas. Good luck!

Jason
 
#16
Richard... should I buy the driven sheave also, or do you think that "maxi" would work out?

..... and on a similar note... I see a "set" (drive & driven.. uses the comet 20 type belt) up on e-bay, new, (probably Chinese, my guess) that shows direct replacement for the Comet 20 for $100.... Price is right (so far I'm into this $140, I'm not looking for Cadillac, just a mule)...
 
#17
Hi Jason..
No numbers or "trade name" anywhere....
Looked for your pictures, msg says none there.....
I have a tote gote front plate and a serial number 0001/62 but I am not sure if someone put together mine out of a model P and a later Nova because of the tank or what. Kind of one of those mysteries :) I have put up tons of pics under the 1962 Vietnam era Tote Gote thread

Thanks
Jason
 
#18
Richard... should I buy the driven sheave also, or do you think that "maxi" would work out?

..... and on a similar note... I see a "set" (drive & driven.. uses the comet 20 type belt) up on e-bay, new, (probably Chinese, my guess) that shows direct replacement for the Comet 20 for $100.... Price is right (so far I'm into this $140, I'm not looking for Cadillac, just a mule)...
I think the depco driven should work...
 

james c

Active Member
#19
the deepco maximatics were used on early tote gotes and simplex mini bikes.
id say the bike is around 1958-60. you should use it as they are pretty hard to remove from the shaft and are bolted on instead of using a keyway like later driven units.
they are lightweight aluminum and are great units. 3/4 belt width i think. you can mod the 20 series to run a 5/8" belt if its 5/8".
 
#20
I have a question regarding the 670 nova. How do you remove the pulley off the worm drive shaft? I can get the front part with the key way off but not the rear. Please help.
 
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