Tote Goat rebuild questions

#21
Interesting note on the deepco... It has a keyway, and a "set"screw impinging on the keystock... but yeah... it looks like its been there awhile (I'd probably take it down to a driveline shop if I needed to get it off). Pillow bearings feel OK.. no way I can see to grease them (probably a good thing), so I'll run 'em (and the chains) and see what happens. All I need now is the drive sheave (and maybe some brakes) :)
Thanks all for the help & suggestions,,,

And.... Murphy rears its ugly head (argh.....)
Center to Center of the shafts is 15" I've got some adjustment here... but all the 3/4" belts are too short (I'm only seeing about a foot maximum). Cant raise engine up far enough (gas tank muffler air-cleaner get in the way) Seems I have to go to a 7/8 belt (comet 40/44?) in order to get the correct belt length (which I guess means pressing off the bearings and old sheave and...)... d'mit
 
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#22
How?? to remove shaft bearings?

OK... so how does one remove the bearing? Hole in "cap" at end of shaft.. spanner wrench, thread on/off? R/H or L/H thread?? or ???
Thanks
 
#23
The 4 rivets hold the bearing in. Not normally removed. Take the lock collar off, loosen setscrew, and then the bearing should slide off the shaft.
 
#24
OK... I see the other end of the shaft has a collar has a set-screw ... on each end of the other shaft..... I'm thinking this one (by the driven sheave) has been lost. Still at a loss as how to remove bearing and then sheave. Picture (above) shows what I have... collar with 2 holes, but no threads in holes (did the set screw go down through one of these holes from the collar with the set screw? And in that case, why didn't they just thread THAT collar and set screw it?

Thanks
 
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#27
First... I have no idea what model.... Its square in back with the tubing just sticking out (one page says its a 675, another it looks like a 403)... Not a shaft drive, chain drive to rear wheel and another shorter chain, and a belt sheave
I just want to rebuild it well enough to haul game. It has no engine and that one jackshaft with the chain to the rear wheel and a big sheave on the other end.
Looking at pictures up here, it appears I am missing a few more "parts" than the engine. Has anyone coupled up one of these "symmetrical" torque converter units up to a goat? (and is this the way to go) Or.... could some one steer me to some still available drive train parts (I assume what I am missing here is some sort of variable belt drive).
I don't care about "restoring" (keeping it original) as much as making it useable.
thanks
Photos would help...
 
#31
Your drive clutch on the motor is correct for an earlier model B. It is a Salsbury 400 clutch. It looks like someone has extended the shaft and added another bearing on the outside of the clutch. This added bearing would not allow you to move the motor forward or back to adjust belt tension.
JCromer b 007.jpeg
 
#34
secondary (driven) sheave

The sheave is a "DEEPCO MAXIMATIC" and looks pretty narrow.
I'm assuming (please correct me if I'm wrong) I would be better off with a wider belt.... and would be better off buying a "driver" and a "driven" with the belt from the same company (again I assume I can give them the ratio, shaft sizes and shaft to shaft distance and get some minibike supply to ship me the correct setup (yes? No? dreaming?.. anybody I should contact at a specific vendor)? I'm looking at a used Honda 5hp GX today... or I'm going with the Chinese "predator" if I can't get a good deal on a Honda.
Again, thanks all
Contact Eric at OldMiniBikes Warehouse... He'll set you up with everything you need.

help@OldMiniBikes.com

tell him the fat bike guy in Arizona referred you... keep it simple and just get it running if you're not too serious for a restoration.
 
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