I was looking at the clutch the other day, and I was thinking about the easiest way to make it work... Without reinventing the wheel, and i keep coming back to modifying the back plate, or just remaking one to fit the offset.. it only has to move about .300 I could also use a Predator offset plate but I might run into top clearance issues.. I also have a super nice 7hp engine I could use.. but i like the look of the 8 ....
Vintage Tote Gote 760
- Thread starter Sport King Eric
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I thought about it.. I even have one thanks for the Offer... Then I though if I was going to go through removing I the original crank I might as well just pop it up on the lathe and push back the 1.00 dia .300.. But I have a couple clutches and one needs a back plate anyway so why not make just make 2 so who knows... Either way the simple answer is to just use my 7
I thought about it.. I even have one thanks for the Offer... Then I though if I was going to go through removing I the original crank I might as well just pop it up on the lathe and push back the 1.00 dia .300.. But I have a couple clutches and one needs a back plate anyway so why not make just make 2 so who knows... Either way the simple answer is to just use my 7
I have a friend that just cut the center outta the motor plate and move it over and it seems to work well. My issue was if you pull the crank and machine the collar and cut a key way into it the crank in long and yes you can cut it but you loose threads that way and can’t drill and tap it unless you go bigger than what’s there. Unless you have a huge Salisbury clutch not a climb away. And then you wouldn’t clear the side screen.
When I pulled the engine apart, the original crank must have been swapped at some point, as it was not a Bearing crank, but still had a step, but it wasn't very long about 3in to the side cover. However, this worked in my favor because the crank I had was not a bearing crank so it was just a simple swap now the problem is solved and the governor is out as a bonus .. just goes to show you never really know what you have with these old engines until you pull them apart... I sort of thought the side cover looked like a bushing side cover.. ( but 5hp briggs i/c engines run them)??? wish i would have taken some pictures...
I think I'm all done with the fab work and Repair... Man did i have an issue taking off the front wheel!! I guess sitting outside all those years really did take its toll! I had to cut off the front wheel with a sawzall because the axle bolt was rusted tight to the bearing shaft (inside) and I didn't want to ruin that guy as it would be pretty hard to find one... After i cut it i was able to heat the bearing shaft up and pound no beat the axle bolt out! a quick trip to Warren Pipe I was able to get a 9" 1/2 -13 and a .500 reamer to clean the bore in the shaft and i was back in business.. I also filled all the extra holes in the engine plate and made a back fender that I bought at Joes's trailer... I also cleaned up the rear axle and fit my new wheel I'll include some shots of the wheel I took off.. unbelievable!!! The Drive train is fit and works as it should the only big job I have left is rebuilding the front forks, i'll worry about that next week.. Thanks Dave for the rear fender cutout measurements!!
