Upgrading MM E -1000 electric bikes to Lithium ion batteries.


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Been chipping away at it this afternoon ...
I glued Kobalt tool box mat to the tray, & between the packs, & also the bottom of them.
Made up the foam cradle, & am now working on cutting 2 slots 1/2 way back in the tray, each side of the packs,, so they can be secured with a Velcro strap.
Also have a 1 1/2 wide elastic/ velcro buckle strap, to secure the packs together at the rear part of them.
Looking good, There's so much room in there!, my 48v takes up the whole bay. I read earlier that you bought two chargers, that's good, don't get greedy and try to parallel charge them off one charger. I don't know why you can parallel the output but the BMS didn't like it when I tried to parallel the input on some packs I had back in the day, yours may be different but since you have two chargers, I wouldn't risk it.


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Looks like it's working out pretty well & your ideas are working as planned. I suspect some more mods will be happening, but so far so good & I'm looking forward to the actual tests you have planned. Curious to see how it comes together with the new batteries, is a Pikes Peak run in the works?


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Looks like it's working out pretty well & your ideas are working as planned. I suspect some more mods will be happening, but so far so good & I'm looking forward to the actual tests you have planned. Curious to see how it comes together with the new batteries, is a Pikes Peak run in the works?
Looks like it's working out pretty well & your ideas are working as planned. I suspect some more mods will be happening, but so far so good & I'm looking forward to the actual tests you have planned. Curious to see how it comes together with the new batteries, is a Pikes Peak run in the works?
Thanks, & very cool car !
Sounds like a great big electric R/C one !! LOL


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Got the wiring finished today, & fired it up !
It definitely has ''all'' the goody now !! :p
Not sure of the rpm's yet , but running it on the stand,, it definitely seems ''butt loads'' more than 3000!.:D
Also seems like the rpm's sound about the same at just over 1/2 - 2/3 throttle now, as the did at full throttle with the stock set up.
Once you go from 3/4 to full,, it really picks up & starts singing, & hardly any voltage drop either !;)

I then put it on the ground, & tried it with me on it in the garage, because of heavy rain here this afternoon.
You definitely do ''not'' want to crack the throttle with sitting back on it, even 1/4 throttle.
It lifts the front end ''very'' easy, & under load,, the voltages only dropped to 42.2v max !
Definitely got some good batteries !! :)

Am a bit concerned though now, that it might be to much out of the hole for the wife....
All the testing in the garage I did, the motor & controller didn't even get warm,, so I think it would handle a 70t rear sprocket just fine.
Think I 'am definitely going to order the 70t Doodle bug steel one, to replace the stock 75t,, & put it on there for her, to cut down the torque some, & to pick up some top speed !
Am going to test it out with the analyzer & on the road first though...

Here's some more pics.




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Drilled & chamfered holes in the cover plate in front of the ESC/controller.
It will definitely help in getting air flow at the ESC.
Am starting to like that the side cover plate is bent the way it is also.
The bend in the front of it should act like an air inlet cowl .:cool:
It's supposed to get in the 50's, next week, & sunny.
Hope to get some quality riding time in.:)
Nice clean install! These are actually kinda fun to play with, you just have to make your own engine noises. LOL!
I hadn't even thought about using a watt meter on mine, have to go dig it out of the flight box. I'm still working on getting all the other wiring figured out for the horn/turn signals/brake light on mine. The PO hacked it all and of course there are no wiring diagrams, even from the mfg.

If you do end up wanting a little more out of the bike, there are some good videos on hacking the controllers. Most have a current shunt in them, the controller reads the current going through the shunt to limit power. You can either add to the shunt's thickness to reduce resistance, or even eliminate it.


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Thanks Man! :)
I took it for a ride, & it pulled my 210lb. @$$ no problem,, even from a dead stop up a 5 % + grade.
Under load, the voltages only dropped to 39.7v, & free wheel running on a level plane,, they went back up to 41.6.v.
Probably rode 10 min., & when parked,, it still had 41.8v.
Felt the motor, controller, & packs,, when done also,, & they weren't even hardly warm.

I checked out a vid of solder bridging the shunts.
Really don't think it's going to need that addressed at this time ….

The wife weighs around 70 lbs. less than me. I think the 70t sprocket is definitely in the works for her.;)



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Did some clean up on the rear sprocket teeth, & aligned the motor better.
Took it for a 15 min. ride this afternoon, & it is ''a lot'' smoother, & quiet. :)
Still had 40.6 volts when done, & even when riding up some pretty good sized neighborhood hills, the packs never dropped below 38.6 volts under load.
Hope to see the wife try it out later this week, while I ride mine also.;)
The temps are supposed to get up into the mid to upper 50's. & sunny. :cool:


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Found a 72t - #35 chain - light weight steel '' 4 spoke'' sprocket, w / 1- 1/2 bore, from MFG supply,, for 25 bucks.
Just have to drill the 6 holes for it.
No big deal, & I have 2 others for the holes that I can use as templates.;) az2165-72.jpg
''That's a fricken deal''!!
I'm tempted to order one. I think I'd put a suspension fork on it (I have a couple NIB), swap the tires for pocket bike tires (lower rolling resistance, I think), replace the rear sprocket with a smaller one to compensate for smaller OD tire (I have a few aluminum split sprockets on hand) and relocate the rear axle about 6" rearward to help keep the front wheel planted with my heavy ass on the rear of the seat. Unfortunately, I'd be completely lost trying to do a power upgrade like you have done, even after reading your thread.


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Took the E - 1000 for 35 min. 4th of July cruise thru our subdivision last eve around dusk, with lights & American flag attached.
Had a pretty good time,, dodging fireworks ect. ''lol'',, & am noticing that the power & rpm's are getting better, probably due to the 4 motor brushes finally seating in.
Both packs have not lost any strength what so ever either, & I also added a few more holes in the front plate on the right side, to allow more air flow to the motor.
I really like this set up, & decided to stay with the stock 10 - 75 gearing for now.
Just need to get a quality #35 chain for it.
Haven't put the watt meter on it yet, but will get to it at some point …..


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I rewired & soldered the motor leads to the brush plate the other day, with - Deans - Ultra wire 12g. 'high strand count'' 12g wire, from the ''junk'' 14g wire that was on it.
When doing so, I also shortened the wires by around 3 inches.
In doing this,, the motor lead/ wires, have ''a lot '' less resistance,, which in turn, create more efficiency.
In riding now, it has noticeably better response when accelerating at over 1/2 throttle.
Sorry I didn't get any pics.
Late to this post....this is very interesting. I paid zero attention to those electric bikes until my daughter started riding our neighbors electric quads. I want to get her a mini bike when we move this month, and this electric bike with battery mods might just hit the spot. Nice build, and hope to see continued updates. Maybe some videos??


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Thanks Fisher. :)
My next step is the 72t sprocket, & then a 14.5 tall street tire for the rear.
With both of those, it should see an added 3+ mph.


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Replaced the chain with the high quality #35 DID stuff that's made in Japan, & just got back from a ride.
''Talk about a noticeable improved difference''!! :)


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Well,, I have been doing serious research on a replacement brushless set up for this bike, & hope to make this one of my winter projects.

I found a brushless 1020 36v/ 1000w motor, that I can order out of China for around 100 bucks.
The case is aluminum, & weighs around 4 1/2 lbs. less than the brushed motor that's on the bike.
Rpm's of the motor @ 40 - 42 volts, I estimate at around 4,300.
That is about 1,300 more rpm's over the brushed motor.
The efficiency of brushless motors are generally way more than most brushed offerings also.
The brushed motor that's on the bike is very efficient though ,''for what it is''.
Figure the brushless one will have around 10% more efficiency.
That in turn = '' longer run time,& more power''.

The 36v, 1000w brushless controller, I can get anywhere here in the US,, for under 30 bucks shipped.
There is some that are supposedly made here also.

The motor to the controller have 3 lead main wires, & both also have a Hall sensor harness that connects between the two.

The Hall effect sensors in the motor are basically magnets, that sense the rotor position, & feed that signal info back to the controller, for timing / rpm's ect.

Looks like I should be able to use my existing throttle assy, & will draw and post a schematic when I wire it up.

The brushless set up should give the bike around 8 more mph, & if I end up gearing it down to 72t, it should hit around 30mph.

Here are some pics.

HTB1dZhtbzvuK1Rjy0Faq6x2aVXaU1020 Brushless.jpg HTB1TFdfbEvrK1RjSspcq6zzSXXauHall.jpg s-l1600Brushless controller.jpg