Upgrading MM E -1000 electric bikes to Lithium ion batteries.

I74

Well-Known Member
#81
Got the motor & controller pretty much wired up.
Did away with a ''buttload'' of extra wire, un- necessary harnesses,, & connectors.
There was around 7 harnesses that I will never use,, like alarm, reverse,, cruise,, hi brake, ect. ect.
Basically cut those out & isolated them.
I would of just removed them off the circuit board inside the controller, but their is a ton of silicone sealer where the wires go into the controller.
The big blue shrink wrap under where the wires go into the controller, is where the remnants of the un-necessary wires reside now.
100_6234.JPG

Connectors I used on the 3 motor wires are 10 gauge gold plated bullet conns. ,that are soldered & heat shrunk.
Also removed about 1/2 ft. of each motor wire.
The blue EC3 connector on the ''far'' left is for the ign.
Blue single wire in the center, is for the speed signal read out on the throttle display.
To the left of that with the exposed wires, is for the 3 spd. switch.
Then left of that is for the throttle.
& lastly,, to the left of the throttle wires, is the 2 wire for the ''low'' brake function.

Throttle is at my Post office, & I plan on going over to pick it up in the morning.

Should have the throttle end & 3 spd. switch wired in the morning also,, then I will try it all out on the bench before it all goes on the bike.

Am shooting for Wed. to have it buttoned up & ready for a test ride. ;)
 
Last edited:

I74

Well-Known Member
#83
''Thanks for the 'likes' Guys''!! :)

Got all hot & bothered about nothin, when going to the Post office,, thinking the throttle was there.
It was a pkg. for the O'l Lady instead. :rolleyes:
Hope it shows up in the next day or so ....
Latest tracking had it in Indiana a couple of days ago...…...

I weighed both motors,, & the brushless one is 5lbs. lighter. ''7lbs''.

Controller is going to have to be mounted vertical, around the same area in the front housing as the stock one.
Am going to drill & cut an opening 3 1/2 by 2,, in the forward battery tray, so the controller will stick up thru it a bit.
Controller is just a 1/2 inch to long.
Thought about cutting down one end of the case, but when pulling the end cover off,, I noticed that the circuit board pretty much fills the whole inside length. ''Bummer'',, oh well.
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#84
It was a ''ton'' of work getting the controller & motor set in, but I finally got it.
'A lot' of drilling ,grinding,, & filing.
Gap between the motor & ESC is about the width of a credit card.
It's solid though, & won't rub.

Throttle still hasn't shown up.:rolleyes:

If I see it in the next couple of days,, I should have it buttoned up Fri.

100_6242.JPG 100_6235.JPG
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#85
All done , except for ''still'' waiting on that ''F'n'' throttle ! :confused:
I always have the option to wire up the stock 1/2 throttle, if I have to.... :rolleyes:
Hopefully,, I will get a package within the next few days...………..
100_6245.JPG
 
Last edited:

I74

Well-Known Member
#86
Wired up the stock throttle just to test the rpm's, on the lift, using my laser tach,, & was ''really'' surprised of the readings while on position 2 of the 3 speed switch !!
This reading is with the chain off & no load, with both the ''li'' batt. pack voltages @42.8 volts.
Motor is so silky smooth, that you don't realize how fast it's turning!
Motor didn't hardly get warm, with around 4 mins. total run time,, & the controller didn't get warm at all.
Remember,, this is a 36/48 volt controller, that will handle 60+ volts ''no problem'', & over 38 amps.
It's hardly even working with my set up, & should last for many moons. ;)

Also tried it on 3rd spd. & got 5100 rpm's, but still get a stutter.
If it still stutters on 3rd speed, with the new throttle, -''when ever it shows up'',, we will probably just pretty much run it on 2nd spd.

Hope that damn throttle shows up soon! :rolleyes:
100_6250.JPG
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#87
No throttle yet,, but I buttoned it up to try it out, & also wired up the 3 spd. switch.
First off, it's very smooth,, & you can tell it's a bit lighter yet.
With the 6.5 - 1 gearing, it's a bit quicker than the brushed set up with the 6.8 - 1 gearing,, but ''a lot'' faster once you get it rolling.
Running on a flat or down hill when shifting into 3rd,, it takes off !
The more I tried 3rd like that, the less the stutter was,, & it completely went away when pretty much free wheeling on a flat or down hill.
RPM's were easily over 5k when doing this in 3rd, & I know it hit well over 30+mph.
The controller is a self learning type, & I think it figured some things out. LOL. :D
It's an absolute blast to ride now, & hopefully the 'o'l lady will try it out sometime....:rolleyes:
Controller didn't even get warm, the motor did though,, but reasonable.
I weigh around 210, & someone 50 - 60 lbs. lighter,, would absolutely ''fly'' on it.;)

I
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#88
Thanks for the ''like'' BObob. :)

Well,, miracle's never cease,,
throttle showed up today !
Just got the connectors made up, & am getting ready to install it.
Here is a pic. of my work...

White conn. is for throttle,
blue EC3 double wire, is for ign,
& single blue EC3 is for speed display.

Will post another pic. when installed & lit up.
100_6254.JPG
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#91
Am getting ready for a lovely evening cruise .:)

Thinking about what this bike weighed stock, with the ''3'' boat anchor batteries, plus steel case ,, & heavy brushed motor, ect. ect.

I went from 110lbs, down to a close estimated 83 lbs!

That's around 27 lbs. I shed off of it.;)

You can tell when riding it also, especially with the lower center of gravity,, when turning.
 
Last edited:

I74

Well-Known Member
#93
Well ,, I got another electric build in the works ...
My Buddy ''AKA''/ ''Fred'',, picked up a ''well used'' MM-80 awhile back,, & finally decided to let me convert it to electric.

We are going with a 48v -1800w brushless set up. :p
Their will be 2 - 48v -18ah,, 13s 3p packs wired in parallel, which will give a total capacity of 36ah.

Am going to make a frame work assy. over the motor & ESC out of aluminum, & an aluminum cover over that for the packs.
Their will also be a hinged side door on the left side of the batt. cover, hinged at the rear,, & a ''quick'' turn snap ''like on race cars ect'' @ the front, to latch the cover.

Gearing is going to start out @ 10 - 63,, with a split sprocket set up,, & go from there......

Here is a ''sloppy'' rough sketch I did today. :rolleyes::D 100_6284.JPG

I
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#96
Thank you Slim Jimmy :)
I wouldn't go with a MM -E -1000 housing, just bolt the motor of your choice, to the base,,& do your own thing from there.;)

I
 
#97
I was thinking along those lines, but I am struggling trying to locate one. eBay does not seem to have many parts for the MM -E- 1000. But I may try my hand on some of the Facebook groups and see if they may have some laying around in their garage.
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#98
I was thinking along those lines, but I am struggling trying to locate one. eBay does not seem to have many parts for the MM -E- 1000. But I may try my hand on some of the Facebook groups and see if they may have some laying around in their garage.
Just get the motor ect. , & bolt the motor to the ''stock'' mount plate & go from there .. :)
The MM E - 1000 motor, actually bolts vertical to the back side of the case,, which is ''not'' as stout as bolting the motor to the ''stock'' base plate, & it flexes..
I had to make a bracket ect. on my MM E -1000 housing,, to help in keeping it from flexing.
Be patent,, I will show how I do it in future posts.;)
 
Last edited:

I74

Well-Known Member
#99
Well I found 48v 13s 3p packs that are supposedly rated @ 28ah, for the same price as the 18ah ones that I was originally going to get.

13s 3p means that there is 3 sets of 13 cells. Each set is wired in series.
That part doesn't make sense to me though, because it would look like this : ''+-+-+-+-+-+-+''
What's wrong with that is,, you would either have a positive on each end, or flipping the cells,, you would have a negative on each end.
Don't see how that would work., as you need a positive on one end & negative on the other.
There is something screwy there …..

Anyway,,
Each 18650 cell's nominal voltage is 3.7v.
3.7 times 13 = 48.1 volts.
Those 3 sets in turn are wired together in parallel.
So if the total Ah capacity is actually 28, then you would divide that by 3, & this would give you the capacity of each cell, which should be around 9ah.
9ah times 3 = 27ah.
That is ''a lot'', & throwing up a flag also, even being supposed Panasonic 18650 cells.
Each pack supposedly has 39 cells.

Remember when you put things together in parallel, ''+ to +'' & ''- to -'', the capacity multiplies,, & in this config, it multiplies 3 times.

Capacity ''does not'' change in just series config though.
If you have 13 cells @ 9ah per cell, all 13 together still total to 9 ah.

Full charge voltage should be around 56v. per pack.

If each pack is around 28ah, then 2 packs together in parallel would have an Ah capacity of 56.

If the motor is pulling on an average of 20 amps, ''which is realistic'' ,, then run time on a charge should be around 2 1/2 hrs.

Basically 56ah means : that 56 amps can be pulled constantly for 1 hr. until the packs are depleted.

Well that a bucket full.. LOL :D

I
 
Last edited:
Ian, I had the same thought when I read your post. How can this work? Take a look at the photos and drawings of their construction. You take the negative and the positive outputs from the first battery in the bank, one on top of the bank, one on the bottom. You have to visualize it in 3D, and it makes sense.

Check this out. Not that the top of the unit "wired" with the buss bars is the mirror of the bottom wired the same.

56 A/H is a lot. :)
 
Top