valve lash

#5
Actually when they are set cold at 0, then brought upto operating temp the lash grows to usually .002 on intake, and .003-.004 on exhaust.
 
#7
Yes indeed. The valve gets slightly longer when hot and you lose that clearance at the adjuster. And then you lose compression and burn a valve or a valve seat.

Rick

Two CT90 and two ST90 bikes
 
#8
Example if you start at say .003 lash, and run the engine say 5 minutes check the lash hot it will have grown to .005-.006... It does not tighten up it loosens up...

I like setting them both at .0015 cold...
 

1stBxMopar

Active Member
#9
Example if you start at say .003 lash, and run the engine say 5 minutes check the lash hot it will have grown to .005-.006... It does not tighten up it loosens up...

I like setting them both at .0015 cold...
I agree, and aluminum blocks and or heads will have a slightly larger expansion rate than cast iron. Also, to verify this there are various tech lines from cam grinders such as Lunati Cams that can give you this information about lash and heat and expansion.
 
#10
Wow..you have proven the whole science and automotive community incorrect:doah:.....till then...check Affordablekarts.com.....its also in ther DIY section. Set cold....intake .002 and exhaust .003 . Roll motor over and recheck. Then install valve cover and run. Very basic and doesn't make it any simpler. :thumbsup:
 
#11
Wow..you have proven the whole science and automotive community incorrect:doah:.....till then...check Affordablekarts.com.....its also in ther DIY section. Set cold....intake .002 and exhaust .003 . Roll motor over and recheck. Then install valve cover and run. Very basic and doesn't make it any simpler. :thumbsup:
Hot lash always tighter due to expansion. It's a rule.
 

1stBxMopar

Active Member
#12
Wow..you have proven the whole science and automotive community incorrect:doah:.....till then...check Affordablekarts.com.....its also in ther DIY section. Set cold....intake .002 and exhaust .003 . Roll motor over and recheck. Then install valve cover and run. Very basic and doesn't make it any simpler. :thumbsup:
I am Not saying that the manufactuers lash settings are incorrect, always go by the manufacturers specs!
What I said was that I agreed with prowler about the expansion, The lash DOES grow when hot because the block and or heads expand with heat increasing the lash clearance.
Not looking to argue or debate here, just trying to get the correct information to the original poster, that is why I ended my statement with the suggestion of calling a free tech line at a cam grinders such as Lunati Cams to verify this..............
 
#13
I am Not saying that the manufactuers lash settings are incorrect, always go by the manufacturers specs!
What I said was that I agreed with prowler about the expansion, The lash DOES grow when hot because the block and or heads expand with heat increasing the lash clearance.
Not looking to argue or debate here, just trying to get the correct information to the original poster, that is why I ended my statement with the suggestion of calling a free tech line at a cam grinders such as Lunati Cams to verify this..............
Just a basic manufacturers spec and procedure. When it comes to extreme builds or specialty cams and roller rockers..things very. Just providing basic info for a novice builder because most on here are really new to all small engine design and repairs. With stamped rockers and basically stock motor...manufacturer specs work out the best.
 
#14
Hot lash always tighter due to expansion. It's a rule.
Ha! I was wrong! According to one well known cam MFG, when HOT values are listed, use this chart to compensate for COLD settings:

THIS IS NOT INTENDED AS A SMALL ENGINE GUIDE!!

Iron Block Iron Heads Add .002"
Iron Block Aluminum Heads Subtract .006"
Aluminum Block Aluminum Heads Subtract .012"

The obvious inference here is that aluminum expands so much that the valve train expansion is redundant.
 

1stBxMopar

Active Member
#15
Ha! I was wrong! According to one well known cam MFG, when HOT values are listed, use this chart to compensate for COLD settings:

THIS IS NOT INTENDED AS A SMALL ENGINE GUIDE!!

Iron Block Iron Heads Add .002"
Iron Block Aluminum Heads Subtract .006"
Aluminum Block Aluminum Heads Subtract .012"

The obvious inference here is that aluminum expands so much that the valve train expansion is redundant.
Thank you, that is all I was trying to explain...
I understand it's not a small engine guide, but you may want to take into consideration the thermal expansion differences of aluminum blocks and heads to cast iron. Small engines have been manufatured out of both materials...
 
#16
Thank you, that is all I was trying to explain...
I understand it's not a small engine guide, but you may want to take into consideration the thermal expansion differences of aluminum blocks and heads to cast iron. Small engines have been manufatured out of both materials...
Well, you know how it is. Guys like me who have been wrenching on engines a long time in the back yard are stuck in the past. :thumbsup:

That valve lash "rule" used to be one of the axioms. Set her loose to not bend push rods, get her hot and set lash. Like on hot rod boats when you don't want to let it sit over the winter with spring pressure on it.

As you probably know, most of the aluminum motorcycle engines out there have gone to OHC with shims inside of cam buckets. That was a cold setting.

OK, done with excuses. Sorry Cheezy, I had to come clean with my lack of knowledge on clone OHV's- :scooter:
 
#17
Wow..you have proven the whole science and automotive community incorrect:doah:.....till then...check Affordablekarts.com.....its also in ther DIY section. Set cold....intake .002 and exhaust .003 . Roll motor over and recheck. Then install valve cover and run. Very basic and doesn't make it any simpler. :thumbsup:
That is why I set them at 0 or .0015...
When they warm up they are .002 and .003 right where they are supposed to be! :)
Okay here is simple set lash so you can just be able to roll the pushrods with your fingers...don't even need a feeler gauge...
 
#18
Well, you know how it is. Guys like me who have been wrenching on engines a long time in the back yard are stuck in the past. :thumbsup:

That valve lash "rule" used to be one of the axioms. Set her loose to not bend push rods, get her hot and set lash. Like on hot rod boats when you don't want to let it sit over the winter with spring pressure on it.

As you probably know, most of the aluminum motorcycle engines out there have gone to OHC with shims inside of cam buckets. That was a cold setting.

OK, done with excuses. Sorry Cheezy, I had to come clean with my lack of knowledge on clone OHV's- :scooter:
Its cool...You all have good points..but for this application I was just trying to keep it simple. Like I said..many on here never worked on a clone or Honda and it can be overwhelming to them if you get too technical. :thumbsup:
 

rmm727

Active Member
#19
Spend some time on Bob's 4cycle and you'll find that just about all the clone racers will set there lash to as near zero as they can (cold). The lash does grow as "these" motors get hot. And that growth in lash is lost power to people that work every part to a min/max spec. I know it seems backward from what we've seen in other engines but that is how it is.

The .002/.003 is the factory spec but set it at that cold, then run it and check it and it will have opened up.
 
#20
Spend some time on Bob's 4cycle and you'll find that just about all the clone racers will set there lash to as near zero as they can (cold). The lash does grow as "these" motors get hot. And that growth in lash is lost power to people that work every part to a min/max spec. I know it seems backward from what we've seen in other engines but that is how it is.

The .002/.003 is the factory spec but set it at that cold, then run it and check it and it will have opened up.
I am on there...if you really wanna get technical. Then what kind of valves..stainless? factory? What kind of seats? Standard? Race? What kind of cyl head? Aluminum stock? Race? Modified stock? What is the valve spring height? Standard spring? 18lb.? Duel spring? More? What kind of rockers? Stamped steel? Rollers? What kind of push rod? Steel? Aluminum? Chrome moly? How far is the piston in the hole? which head gasket are you running? which piston? Flat? Dished? Raised? What can is it? Was it degreed in in? Is it advanced or retarded? The list of factors is endless. In other words....KEEP IT BASIC. Most people have no clue on most of what I just said and will never check it. And depending on metals...expansion is different. Standard metal valves and standard metal push rods in the clones tends to expand and close the gap..which is why the manufacturer recommends that spec. Have a good day:thumbsup:
 
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