valve seat cutting

delray

Well-Known Member
#1
I seen this video last night and could not believe what I was seeing. never seen a person take a neway cutter and spin it to the moon on a seat with a drill and socket. to me that would be way to much material taken off. not sure about his other ethics too and this guy has people paying him to build there heads?
like is comment " going to cut this lite and quick"
I use the factory T handle and spin it just a few times by hand and it's done cutting. cutting teeth on my neway are very aggressive.
 
#2
I seen this video last night and could not believe what I was seeing. never seen a person take a neway cutter and spin it to the moon on a seat with a drill and socket. to me that would be way to much material taken off. not sure about his other ethics too and this guy has people paying him to build there heads?
like is comment " going to cut this lite and quick"
I use the factory T handle and spin it just a few times by hand and it's done cutting. cutting teeth on my neway are very aggressive.
Holy cow..
I have a Neway cutter kit and those are in no way meant to be used with a drill.. They remove a LOT of material very quick by hand..
That head looks ruined to me...
I also didn't know it is required to "spit" into the guides to clean them after running a pipe cleaner through them..WOW.. :eek::eek:
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#4
Holy cow..
I have a Neway cutter kit and those are in no way meant to be used with a drill.. They remove a LOT of material very quick by hand..
That head looks ruined to me...
I also didn't know it is required to "spit" into the guides to clean them after running a pipe cleaner through them..WOW.. :eek::eek:
I like the spit part...…….:eek:
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#5
Here is a beautiful video by Neway on cutting Briggs FH Seats. FYI, Neway does sell a power head so you don't have to use the T handle. Speed? 50 RPM for Briggs. See 12:38 for that.

power head would be nice if you where doing jobbers.....

I believe it's 30 rpm's on small engines. I remember watching that video before purchasing my neway cutter. it's a good video to watch.
I think when they where showing you cutting the seat in that briggs with the power tool it was more for demonstration use only. unless they where cutting into a new seat? it may take little more. that would depend on if the seat was square or has a pre-cut angle in the seat . more then likely it was for demonstration use only.
 

65ShelbyClone

Well-Known Member
#6
Neway makes different insert types with different cutting faces. It looked like maybe he was using correction cutters for moving material. It is still misuse of the tool even ignoring the high speed drill.

I don't like the square-bottomed chamber cut around the valve seats either. And that porosity....yeesh!
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#7
man I really hope none of you guys are sending your heads off to this guy on you tube. I just happen to catch one of his latest video's and right around 45 seconds into the video he talks about belt sanding the head......:eek: really...….belt sandingo_O and then he post on is video it's always good ideal to get your head milled before installation. first of all the only way to take material off would be with a mill or on a lathe. unbelievable he has people sending stuff to him.
 

65ShelbyClone

Well-Known Member
#8
There are a lot of red flags in his videos if you look closely. He's obviously an amateur builder doing amateur work for people who can't do it for themselves. He admittedly doesn't even have a proper straight edge, which is probably convenient because then he might see how wavy his belt sander head "milling" is.
 
#9
Funniest thing I've seen all day since none of those parts are mine.
Gomer Pyle must have helped him with the pathetic video.
I let a little spit fall into my gastank to check the level one time
but hadn't thought of lubing a valve train with it.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#11
power head would be nice if you where doing jobbers.....

I believe it's 30 rpm's on small engines. I remember watching that video before purchasing my neway cutter. it's a good video to watch.
I think when they where showing you cutting the seat in that briggs with the power tool it was more for demonstration use only. unless they where cutting into a new seat? it may take little more. that would depend on if the seat was square or has a pre-cut angle in the seat . more then likely it was for demonstration use only.
Anyone use the ez-turn wrench???? Looks like it would be a lot nicer than the T wrench to use, I'd like to try one but I spent all my pennies getting a 60 degree cutter to go along with what I already had recently o_O Gotta start saving up again I guess.

 
#12
I have one and it did work well but lately I have been using the New3acut stuff using my Bridgeport to cut 3 angles at once, Then I manually add a 75degree throat cut. You have to have enough meat in the throat so your DSC00632.JPG two angles have an adequate length otherwise you are better off with just one bottom angle. This is my box of valve equipment the ez spin handle is in there. DSC00609.JPG
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#13
Anyone use the ez-turn wrench???? Looks like it would be a lot nicer than the T wrench to use, I'd like to try one but I spent all my pennies getting a 60 degree cutter to go along with what I already had recently o_O Gotta start saving up again I guess.

I have just use the T handle. I could see with the ez-turn wrench it might be a little more comfortable feel for what your doing. when cutting a seat by hand.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#14
I have one and it did work well but lately I have been using the New3acut stuff using my Bridgeport to cut 3 angles at once, Then I manually add a 75degree throat cut. You have to have enough meat in the throat so your View attachment 256091 two angles have an adequate length otherwise you are better off with just one bottom angle. This is my box of valve equipment the ez spin handle is in there. View attachment 256090

Fancy stuff there ole!!!! I like the briefcase idea too!!!! I definitely like the idea of keeping the turn/cut as one continuous movement over the T handle. Thanks!
 
#15
They both require practice. I use both and initially I would have issues with the t handle getting the seat concentric. No I have learned light pressure and the way I hold it not to put any side force on the handle. The exhaust is also harder to cut on the clones if I am not changing the exhaust seat. With the mill and the 3 angle cutter it takes a lot of time getting the pilot in alignment with the spindle driver for the cutter. One that is done the seat comes out perfect, I still do lap with 800 grit to see where the seat is. That is another hard setup to do in getting the 3 angle cutter blades set up. I just bought another one and a seat cutter so I can set them up once for a certain size then once it it correct never change it.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#16
Ole, how did you manage the speed rate on your Bridgeport. I would think the lowest you get to run would 100 rpms. You must had to be very careful not to cut to much material.
Getting square up must of been fun. Couple .002+ off wouldn't be pretty.
 
#17
Recommended rpm is 45 but my m head is not back geared so I bought a 1100 rpm motor so my lowest speed is 140 rpm. I use a strong bounce spring and it is not too hard to control.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#18
i wondered about that spring in the picture. I could see how that would help you back off the cutting easier. especially when your going 3x the normal cutting speed. think i'm going to stick with my T handle...lol it would come in handy when cutting new seats faster, but man the time to set it up. i shouldn't say dam thing. my first couple heads i did where on my lathe using my face plate to mill them and enlarge the valve seats. that took little time to get the seats center with in a .0005 that was the best i could do. when i cut the new seat angles the cuts where spot on. really took some extra time. i just didn't have a mill at that time.
 
#20
I was always taught to NOT sink the valves any lower than necessary for the best flow. I'm not that experienced with the Neway seat cutter (I'm old AND old school with plenty of experience with valve seat grinding stones). I have used a few cutters and it seems that the video shows what would appear to be way too much material removed from the seats. That drill may seem convenient but I'm thinking slow and by hand is the better approach or slow - using a vertical mill or drill press. I've used pneumatic and electric seat grinders, but that was with grinding stones made for the higher speeds. AND, as far as his "automotive style head stands - I have a pair identical to his and have used some that had tapered rods that located in the bolt holes to support the heads. That's NOT what I would use with those little heads. I prefer something far more stable to hold my work! I'm sure there are plenty of members on here that are more knowledgeable than me, but theses are my thoughts. Now for some trivia :) Years ago when our shop had a SERDI demo, the sales rep showed me a seat cutter for the SERDI with a 9 angle cut that one of the NASCAR engine builders used at the time. "9 angles" - I thought that was cool!!!
 
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