Vanguard V twin engine modded for minibike

#1
Hey guys. I was just wondering if anyone here has dealt with v twins for their builds. If you could share your ideas that would be greatly appreciated. I want to use one on my Delta 163RX. I was wanting to use it with a 3D Manual Clutch but the shaft requirements are 3/4 inch whereas the crank on the engine is 1 inch. Is it possible to machine the crank down to the desired size?

Thanks
 
#3
$340 for the 428 chain version, and you still have to turn the shaft down, and have a single-speed bike.
A used HD clutch/trans and modest fab skills, would run similar money, and have 5 gears.
But, a Comet 40 is so simple.

I have a Kohler v-2 that I plan to run with an Eaton hydro
 
#5
$340 for the 428 chain version, and you still have to turn the shaft down, and have a single-speed bike.
A used HD clutch/trans and modest fab skills, would run similar money, and have 5 gears.
But, a Comet 40 is so simple.

I have a Kohler v-2 that I plan to run with an Eaton hydro
See...I am trying to get this thing to be road legal. Therefore, a torque converter is not going to be enough. So I was going to use the manual clutch with a modified chinese atv engine/trans for the gears.
 
#7
You have to keep in mind what RPM the engine you build will run at. I would recommend the CVT system off of a CN250 scooter engine because of the tuning ability, aftermarket support for increasing power capability, affordability, and having a separate centrifugal clutch that takes the engagement wear away from the belt. The problem is that the lowest rpm you can tune a CN250 CVT is probably around 6000rpm.
 
#8
Adapting the CVT from a scooter has intrigued me as well. That softer engagement. They make enough variety of weights for the variators that getting the revs down shouldn't be bad. CN250 starts around 23g and there are 15-33g sliders made.

Golf carts often used a Comet 102c that engaged at idle, with tuning parts up through to 10k shift I had my old Arctic Cat at.
 
#9
You have to keep in mind what RPM the engine you build will run at. I would recommend the CVT system off of a CN250 scooter engine because of the tuning ability, aftermarket support for increasing power capability, affordability, and having a separate centrifugal clutch that takes the engagement wear away from the belt. The problem is that the lowest rpm you can tune a CN250 CVT is probably around 6000rpm.
See...the Vanguard V twin is rated to 3600rpm...so...I don't think a CVT would work.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#12
I think if you didn't push the clutch to hard and use it for a gear box it just might work. just don't hammer on that clutch. it was more made for a small block mild built engine. think if that 3d company built a 4 or 5 disc that would be a plus...


keep use posted on you project build if you do it. I see a lot of guys come and go with these ideals and never follow through.
goodluck and I hope to see something in the future...
 
#13
I think if you didn't push the clutch to hard and use it for a gear box it just might work. just don't hammer on that clutch. it was more made for a small block mild built engine. think if that 3d company built a 4 or 5 disc that would be a plus...


keep use posted on you project build if you do it. I see a lot of guys come and go with these ideals and never follow through.
goodluck and I hope to see something in the future...
Then again, it might be neat to put a centrifugal clutch on it and have a sort-of auto-clutch transmission. Not to mention they are more available and can have higher HP ratings.
 
#14
I think if you didn't push the clutch to hard and use it for a gear box it just might work. just don't hammer on that clutch. it was more made for a small block mild built engine. think if that 3d company built a 4 or 5 disc that would be a plus...


keep use posted on you project build if you do it. I see a lot of guys come and go with these ideals and never follow through.
goodluck and I hope to see something in the future...
Thanks Delray. I will keep you posted. I won't be doing this any time soon, however. I can't even afford the motor yet so...
 
#15
If this "ham & eggs" project moves forward, and the mini bike in question is the one depicted on the 'tube, please reexamine each part of the bike for suitability. Wheels, bearings, axles, all of it. JS

And, the manual clutch idea is cool, but 3D unit just isn't made for the torque.

And, again, the CVT units are used on big block and v-twin golf cart swaps, by the hundreds. BGW site has a ton of ditch pump powered carts, many at 3600rpm. But, a Vanny with better valve springs is safe well beyond that. Same with Kohler, Honda, Kawasaki, Generac, and the clones.
 
#16
If this "ham & eggs" project moves forward, and the mini bike in question is the one depicted on the 'tube, please reexamine each part of the bike for suitability. Wheels, bearings, axles, all of it. JS

And, the manual clutch idea is cool, but 3D unit just isn't made for the torque.

And, again, the CVT units are used on big block and v-twin golf cart swaps, by the hundreds. BGW site has a ton of ditch pump powered carts, many at 3600rpm. But, a Vanny with better valve springs is safe well beyond that. Same with Kohler, Honda, Kawasaki, Generac, and the clones.
Well...I have to say I am learning from my mistakes. The front fork snapped yesterday at the pivot. So yes I am reexamining this whole project. And I don't know of any other manual clutch made for powersports application besides the 3D clutch. I don't like the idea of using a CVT just because I like having that top end torque where all the power is genuinely applied to the wheel. A CVT regulates that power. I just am trying to build a genuine street bike and therefore it needs a manual clutch with a 6 spd trans.
 
#17
Then a bike bottom end may be the way to go?
May as well use the clutch in it, too.
Crank cavity is isolated from trans/clutch, so easy to mod the crank to hold a sprocket driven from the ditch pump.

Full-circle, there are millions of low performance twins that already incorporate a real live manual clutch and transmission of their very own, in genuine street bikes.


 
#18
Then a bike bottom end may be the way to go?
May as well use the clutch in it, too.
Crank cavity is isolated from trans/clutch, so easy to mod the crank to hold a sprocket driven from the ditch pump.

Full-circle, there are millions of low performance twins that already incorporate a real live manual clutch and transmission of their very own, in genuine street bikes.


I would have reason to believe that the engine and clutch integration is quite expensive. The whole point of this build is to do it as cheaply as possible and still keep it safe.
 

Top