warrior/heat frames

#1
do these frames ever bend or break anywhere . ive seen the red coleman and the newer camo ones break. im heavy and don't know if I want to spend for a cvt and performance upgrades if it wont hold up.
 
#3
do these frames ever bend or break anywhere . ive seen the red coleman and the newer camo ones break. im heavy and don't know if I want to spend for a cvt and performance upgrades if it wont hold up.
They are good bikes as long as they have not been abused. The spots that are weak are the neck and the engine mount plate. Check one close before you buy it and adjust the price accordingly.

If its not cracked or worse torn yet then its easy to add gussets and additional welds to reinforce the problem areas. If it already has damage it will take more time and effort to repair it.

Grab one and have fun. Just check the weld areas every so often and wont have any problems.
 
#5
FOMOGO, do you know the wall thickness of the tubing on these. what is a good size to make the neck gussets from. I heard the early ones were thicker???
 
#6
I do not know the tubing gauge but I can measure a piece of left over frame tubing for you. I have old Warriors and newer Warriors and have not noticed any difference but I haven't measured them either...

14 gauge sheet metal would be sufficient for the neck braces. You can go thicker if you want but I wouldn't use less than 14 gauge. 1 piece on each side. 11 gauge is 1/8'' (.125) and 14 gauge is 5/64'' (.0781).

The engine plate can be reinforced underneath with additional welding and a few struts. Or you can overlay a piece of 11 gauge on the top. Gusseting the lower rails to the rear wheel hoop is a good idea as well.
 
#8
[MENTION=49392]400nitro[/MENTION]

I checked a Warrior frame for you yesterday and the tubing is a tight 14gauge and the engine plate is a tight 11 gauge. The metal is metric and I don't have a metric gauge. There is only a few thousandths difference between the standard metal and the metric metal thickness.
 
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