Weakest Part Of A Predator 212

FatBuddyCat

FatBuddyCat

Active Member
#1
#1
Hey guys, it was brought to my attention, the importance of billet rods and flywheels when doing ANYTHING beyond stock recommendations on a governor. I have since replaced my Hemi flywheel and my rods and Non-Hemi flywheel will be here this weekend. That said, what do you all think is the next weakest part of the motor? They are identically modified with Ruixing 212 carbs (140/38), headers and intakes. Both will have ARC flywheels and Rods.
 
FatBuddyCat

FatBuddyCat

Active Member
#3
#3
My goal is 5400 RPM, I've been told the hemi can do that on stock springs. Is it the same for a non-hemi? Both motors are going to have adjusted governors and stock cams.
 
FatBuddyCat

FatBuddyCat

Active Member
#5
#5
I'm trying to keep the engines comparable for testing purposes. I have a tach coming in Wednesday. I already put 18s in the non hemi, it has more run time on it. The hemi has stock springs, less run time and a flat piston.
 
Davis

Davis

Well-Known Member
#6
#6
FatBuddyCat said:
I'm trying to keep the engines comparable for testing purposes. I have a tach coming in Wednesday. I already put 18s in the non hemi, it has more run time on it. The hemi has stock springs, less run time and a flat piston.
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You already said you did the billet rods and flywheels. So the weak points are gone. I also have no idea why you would leave a governor intact if you already did those modifications. Until you get into the head and real flow of these motors and correct cam you will never make real power.
 
MiniBikeDan1980

MiniBikeDan1980

Active Member
#7
#7
Davis said:
You already said you did the billet rods and flywheels. So the weak points are gone. I also have no idea why you would leave a governor intact if you already did those modifications. Until you get into the head and real flow of these motors and correct cam you will never make real power.
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What do you mean by real power? Power is power just some more than others.
 
FatBuddyCat

FatBuddyCat

Active Member
#8
#8
Davis said:
You already said you did the billet rods and flywheels. So the weak points are gone. I also have no idea why you would leave a governor intact if you already did those modifications. Until you get into the head and real flow of these motors and correct cam you will never make real power.
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They are primarily yard bikes. I want as much power as I want reliability.
 
FatBuddyCat

FatBuddyCat

Active Member
#9
#9
FatBuddyCat said:
They are primarily yard bikes. I want as much power as I want reliability.
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Yeah, more power than stock but without a huge punch. As is the 212s are hard to keep the front ends down but when they get on the straight I want to go fast but I don't need 7000 rpm to go as fast as my gearing. I learned that quickly with the 196s. Yeah they go hard but unless I'm geared for running down the road its just a lot of excessive wear on the motor. I found a 12t clutch and a 74t sprocket is plenty to get need hydraulic brakes. I have a 64t for going faster if I need to.
 
Davis

Davis

Well-Known Member
#11
#11
FatBuddyCat said:
Yeah, more power than stock but without a huge punch. As is the 212s are hard to keep the front ends down but when they get on the straight I want to go fast but I don't need 7000 rpm to go as fast as my gearing. I learned that quickly with the 196s. Yeah they go hard but unless I'm geared for running down the road its just a lot of excessive wear on the motor. I found a 12t clutch and a 74t sprocket is plenty to get need hydraulic brakes. I have a 64t for going faster if I need to.
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Did you really just quote your own post?
 
FatBuddyCat

FatBuddyCat

Active Member
#13
#13
How many sets of rings should I expect to go through in the lifetime of the motor? Will the sleeve breakdown first? How long do the bearings last? I've heard Predator 212s have a run life of something in the neighborhood of 500 - 800 hours but can last up to 2-3 years. If well maintained there must still be something to be aware of considering the added rpm will cause faster wear.
 
delray

delray

Well-Known Member
#14
#14
ole4 said:
Valve springs.
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i was kind of thinking the rod,but after today being at a swap meet i saw a 212 for parts and the end of the crank was snap off. that would of been a good picture to post...lol
i'm sure it went though hell to get it to snap off. would of been funny to post with the thread title.
 
M

MJL

Active Member
#16
#16
delray said:
i was kind of thinking the rod,but after today being at a swap meet i saw a 212 for parts and the end of the crank was snap off. that would of been a good picture to post...lol
i'm sure it went though hell to get it to snap off. would of been funny to post with the thread title.
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My son managed to break the crank on a Hisun. Engine was governed. It did probably have 100+ hours on it and 10,000+ takeoffs. He might have figured out how to push on the govenor arm, but it had a vibration prior to the snap, so I think the crank might have been bent somehow.
 
FatBuddyCat

FatBuddyCat

Active Member
#17
#17
MJL said:
My son managed to break the crank on a Hisun. Engine was governed. It did probably have 100+ hours on it and 10,000+ takeoffs. He might have figured out how to push on the govenor arm, but it had a vibration prior to the snap, so I think the crank might have been bent somehow.
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I have a 196 Hisun built to about 15hp I romp on. That said, it's the early 2016 vin number with the 3/4 shaft. I wonder if torque converters are easier on the output shaft....?
 
delray

delray

Well-Known Member
#18
#18
FatBuddyCat said:
I have a 196 Hisun built to about 15hp I romp on. That said, it's the early 2016 vin number with the 3/4 shaft. I wonder if torque converters are easier on the output shaft....?
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i wouldn't think a torque converter would be hard on a crank? being it's belt driven and all. something that is more direct drive that can shock the crank and make it snap off...?
 
FatBuddyCat

FatBuddyCat

Active Member
#19
#19
delray said:
i wouldn't think a torque converter would be hard on a crank? being it's belt driven and all. something that is more direct drive that can shock the crank and make it snap off...?
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Just that the newer colemans are 5/8 shaft and the jackshaft uses a centrifugal clutch that is full load/no load and chatter in between if it's unevenly worn....I couldn't fairly compare that to a Predator 212 that's all. The hardest things on cranks in my opinion are impact guns, hammers and direct blunt force trauma because there is zero give when you whack a clutch or torque converter off a rock.
 
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