West bend 820

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#2
You can find the Nova II ignition module on eBay pretty cheap. Essentially you just take the wire that would go to the points and run it to the new solid state module. The Nova II has (2) blades on it, the other just connects to ground. You can also use a single blade module, just make sure it is mounted to a good ground as it is internally grounded (that's the reason for only one blade). ClassicKartShop has reproduction motor mounts with or without logo, steel or aluminum side plates as well http://www.classickartshop.com/products/engine-mounts/

Instructions.jpg
 

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#3
It doesn't have to be a Nova II brand, there are clones that work just as well. Just search eBay for solid state ignition module and you should find some in the $12-$15 dollar range. If it looks like either of the two pictures below, it should work, you still have to time the engine like you would if it had points.
 

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#7
So I just checked the rotation of my engine and it runs clockwise Is there any reason why I couldn’t have the clutch on the right side it’s the West Bend 820 my serial is 75010-2 that means my carburetor will face forward Please advise Is there anything I’m missing or unclear of
 

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#8
The carburetor can be installed on either side and in any position as long as you have the proper throttle linkage. Most min bike configurations use CCW rotation but you can use a CW rotation as long as you run the sprocket on the right side. You can also run a jack shaft if you decide to use a left side drive setup. If you want to convert your current setup, you will need a CCW crank and flywheel as well as a new coil and pull start, which will end up costing quite a bit. It also appears you have a stepped crank so if you’re gonna convert to CCW, now would be the time to switch over to a 3/4” crank. Just the crank is going to cost more than a clone engine so that’s another thing to think about.
 

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#9
Here's the service manual for the 610/820, the pictures are dark but it has good info. Here's another members suggestions and a pretty good rule of thumb to tweak a stock engine to get some added power without sacrificing reliability.

1) Use .030 head gasket

2) Use Boyesen 620 reeds

3) Use an HL 334 Tillotson carb

4) Press the output seal in until it touches the crank bearing

5) Use an Atom ignition module and set the timing around .068-.072 btdc

6) Use a SnoRunner compression release head

7) Use a 5K ohm NGK plug cap

8) Use a NGK B9HS plug gapped at .030

9) Deburr and slightly open all the ports

10) Run premium gas with synthetic racing oil at a 16:1 mix

11) And oh yeah, get a dyno tuned $$$ pipe
 

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#10
Is there anything wrong with not using a jack shaft and running chain straight to back wheel and keeping sprockets on rt side I’ll offset motor to line up chain?
 

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#11
As long as everything lines up, you can run the clutch and sprocket on the right. Just make sure the clutch you get can work for a CW setup. These engines were used on both sides of karts and a lot of clutches for these engines are CW or CCW only, double check before ordering. Also note there are inboard and outboard clutches too. It appears that your engine has an extended crankshaft nut, they are used in karting without the pull start. The previous owner just shimmed the recoil out and that is why the housings don’t quite line up. Also the scrub brake probably won’t be sufficient once you get that WB up and going but I wouldn’t ruin that Rascal frame over installing an engine,
 
#12
Thanks for all that u have pointed out yeah I’m not gonna tear up the frame at all to mount the motor or I won’t put it in I did wonder why they had the pool starter spaced out now I know why the fuck that goes inside wouldn’t work I’m going to the shop on Thursday that specializes in the west bend hopefully they can get me sorted out I think they’re wanting me to put a jack shaft in which I don’t want to do it looks like with an adjusted motor plate I would be able to lineup the clutch once I get it in the sprocket OK throttle up and have some fun without messing up the frame and the motor this motor turns and it be too much of a headache I’ll just put the Briggs & Stratton back in but I had to give up when I haven’t even tried just trying to ask some questions before I worked myself into a corner like the clutch direction thing I will ask and make sure.
 

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#13
Here's some links that may be helpful. Fillman Machining has an adapter for 5/8" to 3/4" clutch along with the newer style rod (stronger design). Cat Kart Shop usually has cranks, just contact them with what you need, they also have all the stuff to convert over to the newer US820 ignition. Classic Kart Shop has reproduction exhaust and engine mounts. SnoRunner.com has tons of sno-runner parts, if you go with a Sno-Runner crank, you can use their clutch too. The Sno-Runner was made by Chrysler and used the 820 in the CW configuration. The Sno-Runner crank/clutch is a good way to go if you stay with the CW rotation setup but you are limited to 15 or 17 tooth clutch sprockets. They appear to be similar to Noram clutches but I haven't tried using a Noram drum with Sno-Runner hub/weights. They also have the steel bracket to convert the old style block to the new style coil, most aftermarkets are aluminum but they are known to send what's on hand rather than what's pictured or described. You could also use a Sno-Runner band brake if you decide to go that route.

https://fillmanmachining.com/product-category/power-bee-820

http://www.catkartshop.com/product-category/wb-820/

http://www.classickartshop.com

https://snorunner.com/products
 
#14
So I dropped off motor at Catkart he is going check it out and make it a ccw running engine then I can use motorplate location I have and chance to a 3/4 crank so I can run a clutch with a insidesprocket for better chain alignment. And putting in new ignition. He has all the parts and I wanted to do but he has the knowledge of all parts. So I’ll mount and do the rest . I cleaned up and powder coated the rest of parts I’ll get going on Seat.
 
#16
I made a stand to hold it while starting was able to get started the gas coming out of the exhaust pipe making a mess and also gas dripping out of that velocity stack the carburetor motor is fresh brand new maybe there needs to be a little bit more break In I’m not sure. Need help with this little beast lolHave some things to work out?
 

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#17
Is it running or is it flooding out so bad it won’t start?. If it’s running but spitting fuel, it may just need adjustment, if it’s flooding out and fuel running everywhere, the diaphragm needle may be sticking or the diaphragms aren’t sealing.
 
#18
Took it back to shop and the fixed brand new carb it no longer leaking fuel. I had them install snow runner head with compression release and they put .100 gasket to make sure it starts easier. Its great now compression release is the ticket I can stay seated press button and pull start crack throttle and it fires right up still may need to tweak clutch springs for correct take off speed and gearing but its a blast to ride and look at.
 
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