Not mind altering, but automotive types. I like Loctite for stuff I don't want to move, and anti seize for stuff I want to move later. I have used a 2 part epoxy putty sold at hardware stores for plumbing repairs to mold parts or glue stuff where you don't want the glue to drip. I found a windshield sealer that is just a very thin silicone that will penetrate pretty deeply before it semi hardens. Useful for making seams waterproof again even if they flex. Alcohol is a solvent for silicone, so if you are using silicone and need to smooth it, dip your finger or what tool you are using in alcohol and you can smooth or form the silicone without making a big mess. You can "sharpen" a dull file by soaking it in vinegar for a few days. The acid will eat away some of the metal leaving sharp points. Anyone got more?
What are some of your favorite chemicals?
LA's Awesome Cleaner. It's called that. Kicks the heck out of anything purple, or green in my experience. I've switched to it exclusively, but not sure if it is available everywhere. Does not seem to turn aluminum colors either.
Cant say enough about Loctite products. There is a lot more there than just thread lockers. I recently used some "620" which is a bearing mount retaining product. Green in color. Oil and fuel proof. Will fill gaps in wheel bearing installations. I also used it to retain a PTO bearing. Removable by using high heat. If you are considering using epoxies like JB Weld, look into Loctite first. Expensive, but effective.
Isopropyl Alcohol works as a reducer in epoxy based products, if you need something thinner than what you mixed up with part A and part B.
Garage Door Lubricant. Essentially silicon spray. Definitely works on garage door springs and roller axles. Also works on sliding glass doors, and everywhere else you need a quick, non-petroleum lubricant.
Cant say enough about Loctite products. There is a lot more there than just thread lockers. I recently used some "620" which is a bearing mount retaining product. Green in color. Oil and fuel proof. Will fill gaps in wheel bearing installations. I also used it to retain a PTO bearing. Removable by using high heat. If you are considering using epoxies like JB Weld, look into Loctite first. Expensive, but effective.
Isopropyl Alcohol works as a reducer in epoxy based products, if you need something thinner than what you mixed up with part A and part B.
Garage Door Lubricant. Essentially silicon spray. Definitely works on garage door springs and roller axles. Also works on sliding glass doors, and everywhere else you need a quick, non-petroleum lubricant.
Aerosol oven cleaner; Easy Off, etc. but the cheaper brands are just as good and are best for cost savings.
Great for cleaning greasy grimy engines albeit not safe for aluminum. Common foaming aerosol engine cleaners like Gunk are just unremarkable. The grime doesn't really budge but oven cleaner is just superb. Takes off everything, leaves nothing behind.
Fantastic!
Great for cleaning greasy grimy engines albeit not safe for aluminum. Common foaming aerosol engine cleaners like Gunk are just unremarkable. The grime doesn't really budge but oven cleaner is just superb. Takes off everything, leaves nothing behind.
Fantastic!
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/DRT-LUBE_ml.jpg
CMD #3 for pushrod ends valve stem tips ect extreme pressure,
CMD #3 for pushrod ends valve stem tips ect extreme pressure,
Just EZ-OFF'ed the backside of a Briggs flat top gas tank; the grunge magnet area between the engine and the tank is always horrendous. I didn't leave it on too long, just enough for the foam to sort of break down a little, maybe 5 minutes give or take. I didn't even disassemble any of the governor hardware but it is CLEAN now. :thumbsup:
Paint is still intact too...
EDIT: I hosed it off with a garden hose and dried it quickly with a heat gun.
I tried it on the cylinder head in an effort to remove carbon. Not too impressed there and it did just dull the aluminum, nothing more. I did it quickly because of the warnings against aluminum.
Another fave is:
Super Clean degreaser in the purple jug.
Paint is still intact too...
EDIT: I hosed it off with a garden hose and dried it quickly with a heat gun.
I tried it on the cylinder head in an effort to remove carbon. Not too impressed there and it did just dull the aluminum, nothing more. I did it quickly because of the warnings against aluminum.
Another fave is:
Super Clean degreaser in the purple jug.
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Metal rescue, it is a rust remover that is not a true acid. Which actually works. I think it may be similar to EDTA, but they keep the formula a trade secret. It removes rust through chelation, meaning it absorbs the rust and doesn't "eat" it like a acid remover does. This is important because if you leave your parts sitting in the solution longer than it takes to remove the rust, it simply stops eating the rust and begins adding a black oxide coating to the (then rust-free) metal. Which is better than rust because black oxide actually will protect the metal from rusting and can be sanded off (black oxide is the coating that's on allen wrenches, chisels, and other tools which get banged up, that's why they're black and why tool manufacturers intentionally add it to their tools.) It also contains a mild detergent to cut grease, but it is best if the parts are clean/loose rust is off first. I was completely able to remove 50+ years of rust from the inside of 2 Bonham Tote Gote teardrop tanks using this product. A year later, they still look great and are rust free (Although I do keep the tanks clear full of gas to help prevent rust). The only thing is you have to heat this product to 90+ degrees, I have a old pressure cooker which I use to heat it up with on the stove inside or on a camp stove before pouring it into a plastic bucket with the rusty parts. I also leave the bucket sitting in the sun, or indoors under a heater if it's winter so it stays hot while using it. It can be used till the solution turns pitch black. It is safe to touch with your hands, and they say BBQ grates and cat iron cookware can be soaked in it. I use it after removing all the loose rust and sanding. Metal rescue is the same as Evapo-rust, I haven't used evapo-rust because I can't find it in jugs big enough to use, I think I only recall reading ever slight differences between the two products instructions.
I do all my degreasing with the $3 bottle of Home depot brand pinesol I bought 2 years ago and a nylon brush! I clean everything with that pine-sol, BBQ grates, engines, bird baths, anything greasy/grimy. Pinesol is a great all-purpose cleaner. Engine-brite works, but is smelly/toxic.
Electronic parts cleaner for setting/cleaning points is a must!
JB Weld (not the JB kwick though) for mild metal/plastic repairs!
I find aerosol carb cleaner is over-rated and only cleans a carb if its already disassembled, the "squirting carb cleaner into a carb still on the engine to clean a jet." action never has worked for me once.
I do all my degreasing with the $3 bottle of Home depot brand pinesol I bought 2 years ago and a nylon brush! I clean everything with that pine-sol, BBQ grates, engines, bird baths, anything greasy/grimy. Pinesol is a great all-purpose cleaner. Engine-brite works, but is smelly/toxic.
Electronic parts cleaner for setting/cleaning points is a must!
JB Weld (not the JB kwick though) for mild metal/plastic repairs!
I find aerosol carb cleaner is over-rated and only cleans a carb if its already disassembled, the "squirting carb cleaner into a carb still on the engine to clean a jet." action never has worked for me once.
Not sure this will help anyone on minibikes. But I often use Dap Alex Plus clear caulking as a glue. It is water cleanup, dries clear, sticks to anything, stays flexible, and doesn't drip. Works as wood glue, repair dam near anything. Glues counter tops down to cabinets. Tool box drawer liners in place, cloth to wood or metal, wood to wood, concrete to wood. It will soften if it stays wet for a long time, so not the best for bathtub caulking. Use it a lot for repairing cabinet drawers, add a bead on the under side. And it's under 3 bucks a big tube. And paintable. I have used it to smooth welds before painting. a quick smear between primer and top coat and the "bird poop" effect of the weld goes away. Could be used as a tire bead sealer on tubeless tires. Easier to use than pure silicone and I think it sticks better.
Gibbs penetrant and lubricant
Cut-Ease for hacksaw and bandsaw blades
Sea Foam for gas and oil
Boeshield for lubrication and as a protectant
Cool Tool II for drilling and cutting with HSS twist drills in metal
Tap Magic and Rigid Endura-Clear for tap and die use, especially small stuff
Satin Gloss heat activated car wax
Lizard Spit metal polish
Cut-Ease for hacksaw and bandsaw blades
Sea Foam for gas and oil
Boeshield for lubrication and as a protectant
Cool Tool II for drilling and cutting with HSS twist drills in metal
Tap Magic and Rigid Endura-Clear for tap and die use, especially small stuff
Satin Gloss heat activated car wax
Lizard Spit metal polish
Loctite Extend Rust Neutralizer
I have also tried the aerosol can but find that when sprayed, it just leaves a clear coating basically on the rust and doesn't always turn it black; more like dark brown. I stir this stuff with a stick instead of shaking it, then paint it on with a medium size brush. It goes on white then turns blue or purple and then dries black with 99% uniformity. Sort of a semigloss surface too.
It shows my brush strokes (might need a better applicator) but I also use it on places that don't show. Works dandy on the always-rusted insides of Briggs blower covers and other engine tins.
I have also tried the aerosol can but find that when sprayed, it just leaves a clear coating basically on the rust and doesn't always turn it black; more like dark brown. I stir this stuff with a stick instead of shaking it, then paint it on with a medium size brush. It goes on white then turns blue or purple and then dries black with 99% uniformity. Sort of a semigloss surface too.
It shows my brush strokes (might need a better applicator) but I also use it on places that don't show. Works dandy on the always-rusted insides of Briggs blower covers and other engine tins.
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Marvel Mystery Oil is awesome as an assembly lube and my Carbide loves a little in the gas tank.
I use Xado Revitalizants for the engines that I'm too lazy to rebuild. True story, the Cylinder Revitalizant brought my Carbide's compression from 110PSI to 190PSI. Like new now.
CRC 3-36 Ultra Lite for anything that I want to stay lubricated in any condition. It's like that Lubit Super Oil, but it's much thinner, smells better, and it's spray-able.
CRC Brakleen for any cleaning job. I even clean my hands with it. The brain damage the fumes cause is unbeatable. Don't get it in your eyes. I learned the hard way twice.:blink:
I use Xado Revitalizants for the engines that I'm too lazy to rebuild. True story, the Cylinder Revitalizant brought my Carbide's compression from 110PSI to 190PSI. Like new now.
CRC 3-36 Ultra Lite for anything that I want to stay lubricated in any condition. It's like that Lubit Super Oil, but it's much thinner, smells better, and it's spray-able.
CRC Brakleen for any cleaning job. I even clean my hands with it. The brain damage the fumes cause is unbeatable. Don't get it in your eyes. I learned the hard way twice.:blink: