What do i do now?

[DreyeIce]

I noticed my intake valve was a bit loose, like i could spin it even when it was down on my 5hp briggs,

so i took out the valve, and ground the end down the tiniest bit, now there is a gap from the bottom lifter to the actual valve, so im thinking, by me doing that, the valve is openign that much less, so how so i get it to close snug without loosing valve lift,

and do i need a new valve now that i kinda ruined that one?

 

[Oldsalt]

It is very common for engines like the Briggs to allow the exhause valve to 'sink' due largely to the aluminum block. Removing some material to shorten the valve stem gets the engine to again start and run properly. Good job. The larger the gap between the lifter and the face of the valve stem the less total lift of the valve. But the loss is so small that it can't be considered to limit engine output on a flathead engine with valve timing that is dismal. Excessive valve lash also results in a valve starting to open slightly later and closeing slightly earlier. That also is not a problem with the engines we are talkng about.

 

[Richard Trotter]

There should be a .006" gap between the valve and tappet on your intake valve. Make sure the cam is in the closed position. Rotate crank until valve is wide open, then turn crank 1 full turn to close valve. Measure gap. Intake should be between .005" -.007". Exhaust should be between .007" -.009"

 

[DreyeIce]

you mean like inside the spring housing, where the lifter pushes the bottom on fhte valve?

mines more like1/16" or slightly more of a gap between the lifter and the bottom of the valve stem,

 

[badtec]

Yes, that's where you measure. But if you've got .0625", or more, you more than likely need a new valve.