What is the cheapest way to get into mini bikes?

#22
I was wondering how cheap I could get into the hobby. I'm beginning to learn mechanics and I thought learning how to work on a mini bike would help with working on a car engine. So whats the cheapest way to get into the hobby?
I just finished up a Manco Streaker I built for $40. Got the streaker for $50 and sold the junky Tecumseh for $30, then got another bike for $100. Kept the forks and 3hp Briggs and sold the frame and front wheel for $80. The misc parts were just junk I had laying around and I covered the seat with an old shirt. I didn't mean for it to be that budget of a build but it worked out that way. You don't need much to build a bike if you shop around and don't care about looks! Message_1549648516385.jpg
 
#23
So whats the cheapest way to get into the hobby?
When we were kids, we got some electrical conduit and made a frame and scrounged all the other parts off of old bicycles and lawnmowers or anything else we could find... Scratch built in 1968 suspension minibike with 350cc 4 speed tranny 2 cycle 2 cylinder engine, dual exhausts, home built pop riveted mufflers, street legal using old scooter title:
https://images-ext-2.discordapp.net.../DannyFuneral008-1-1.jpg?width=400&height=300
 

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#24
Cheap?? Is there’s cheap way....I’m a $1000 in to a build and I haven’t even started tearing apart and ordering parts....these have nothing on Panheads.....
I am looking for a rear fender for my 1971+ Rupp Roadster 2. I am surprised that Blackwidowmotoersports doesn't sell them? I seen them on Ebay for a bent up cracked rust covered one for $100+ but I would need to weld it and beat out the dents in it then bondo it and hopefully get it to look somewhat decent. The Arctic Cat only needed a new carburetor which I bought off Amazon for $17 and it runs great. It is a modified Prowler that the 2 stroke Saks was replaced with a big shoehorned H50 Tecumseh with a 10T clutch. I played $400 for it. I already spent $100 for the Rupp roller +$253 for shock rebuilding kit and new seat and foam and taillight+"$35 bucks last year on a Rupp gas tank. So I am in it for $388 bucks right now. I still need a rear fender and a license plate bracket and original headlight bezel which cracked and scratched yo crap ones sell on Ebay for $100. Hopefully I can pull the comet Primary off the Tecumseh and it will work with the Rupp secondary? Thankfully it came with the front fender. The Rupp is Nickel and Diming me to death compared to the Arctic Cat which basically was a complete bike. It will be a cool looking bike but I will save money by putting a China Predator 212cc on it rather than a period correct Tecumseh HS40 with lighting coil which sell on Ebay for as much as $800. I have a 1995 HS40 which came with the bike I may make that look like an original engine with a shroud from a 1980's Tecumseh HS40 which looks similar to the original engine Shroud. I will then get reproduction decals and make it look original and keep it to swap out if I decide to sell it since a Predator 212cc on a Rupp kills its resale value even though it is a fine running reliable engine. Proof is the Arctic Cat Tecumseh didn't start this spring but the Predator 212cc did on the second pull. I use Seafoam in the gas to prevent this crap so I will need to blast out the carburetor with some Gumout and putz with it to get it running. The Predator 212cc no matter how much the purists hate them is the most reliable engine I ever owned. 1 to 2 pulls of the recoil and it starts everytime even after sitting all winter long.
 
#25
To me, an important part of the equation is what type of riding you will be doing?
These bikes come in so many variations- no suspension, full suspension, suspended seat, etc.
If you will be riding on level flat ground, you won’t really need full suspension, but if you are taking it off road then you will prob need a full suspension bike.
The full suspension bikes have more parts- shocks etc so they could end up costing more than a bike that has a solid frame. If you want to build a drag bike, you will prob need wheelie bars and more powerful engine and brakes which ends up costing more as well.
Some bikes have 4” wheels, 5” wheels, 6” wheels, 10” wheels, 12” wheels, etc there are a lot of different flavors.
So if you want something to bomb around a paved parking lot, you can use a solid frame bike with 4” wheels and a centrifugal clutch and be fine.
But if you are wanting to ride off road up hills and stuff, you might want bigger wheels and a torque converter to help with that.
Starting here on OldMiniBikes is a great place to start, members here are very generous, helpful and knowledgeable.
Knowing what kind of bike you will want to buy can help you narrow it down since there are so many out there at so many different price points, it can be overwhelming.
 

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#26
I just finished up a Manco Streaker I built for $40. Got the streaker for $50 and sold the junky Tecumseh for $30, then got another bike for $100. Kept the forks and 3hp Briggs and sold the frame and front wheel for $80. The misc parts were just junk I had laying around and I covered the seat with an old shirt. I didn't mean for it to be that budget of a build but it worked out that way. You don't need much to build a bike if you shop around and don't care about looks! View attachment 239940
I bought a rebonded Foam seat from Ebay for my Doodle beast. It is way better than the worthless stock seat weapon of a$$ destruction that came on the bike. I also bought a Rupp seat cover and extra dense foam for the Rupp I am restoring. I don't build museum quality restorations but I want them to look decent and better yet run well. I had a 5hp Tecumseh on my snowblower which I hated and my Arctic Cat didn't start this spring unlike the Predator. I like the China Predator 212cc engines since they are easy 1-2 pull starting engines and reliable as long as the day is long. I know if I were to find a period correct HS40 with a lightning coil it would cost a ton to restore the Rupp plus I have miles of low maintenance gravel roads and if I had a museum piece I would hate to ride it for fear of ruining it.

20190512_120915.jpg 20180628_202154.jpg
 

tomc

Active Member
#27
I find starter rolling frames, vintage stuff, for $5 and $10 quite often. I don't think I'd pay that for Chinese crap.
 

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#28
I find starter rolling frames, vintage stuff, for $5 and $10 quite often. I don't think I'd pay that for Chinese crap.
I paid $100 for this rolling Rupp Roadster 2. It was missing the gas tank and rear fender. It came with a 1995 Tecumseh HS40 which I am not sure if it works. I am going to rebuild it and most likely will power it with a Predator 212cc but I am really having problems finding a decent shape rear fender for the 12-inch wheel bikes.

I see lots of non-suspension tiny wheel rollers on Craigslist but I usually ride on low maintenance gravel roads around my cabin and they can be a bit bumpy so the suspension helps. My Predator powered DB30 has a Serengeti front springer fork on it and a thick rebond foam rear seat I bought on ebay. I also replace the thin walled tire with a nice SnowHog tire that is about 1 inch taller and it has awesome grip in the sand and gravel as well as grass.
Here is a copy to the link on OldMiniBikes of my Rupp roller.

https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/i-bought-a-rupp-off-craigs-list-tonight.144047/
 

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#30
1500 for a nice 1971 Rupp Scrambler I am selling[/QUOTE

Is that original paint on the Scrambler? I think my Rupp Roadster 2 was Yellow but I didn't see that color scheme mentioned in the literature. If the frame is painted it would be a 1971 version since all the frames were black in 1972.
 
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