What lubrication in Montgomery Ward differential?

gumpit

gumpit

#6
#6
Once you get it out of the frame its easier to do. If the head sticking out is stripped then maybe use an opened end wrench or screwdriver under it to apply some pressure to see if you can get it to grab. I dont see a broken bolt head. Would need a better pic of that. Also while its out of the frame see if there is any play in the axles where they go into the housing. That means the bushings are worn.
I stopped trying to service these differentials and now just put a new center housing in when using the old axles or just put in all new axles,bushingshubs and brake drums. I love the T555's
 
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h34choctaw

Member
#8
#8
I did-going to change the gearing to give more torque. Also going to change the set-up of the jackshaft and change the engine mount location since I'm going with a 6.5 Predator and Comet 30 series torque converter.
 
gumpit

gumpit

#10
#10
h34choctaw said:
I did-going to change the gearing to give more torque. Also going to change the set-up of the jackshaft and change the engine mount location since I'm going with a 6.5 Predator and Comet 30 series torque converter.
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Thats what I would run...Harbor freight and a 30 series.... but Im fat and we race them so I currently have an 18hp big block and 40 series...
If you want the best gearing run the tav backing plate with a chain down tomthe jackshaft with gears on both sides. That will move the driven higher so it doesnt bottom out on a rock or root and keeps it dryer if going through mud or water... trust me...
 
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wjustice

Well-Known Member
#11
#11
I don't remember where I saw it but bentonite is correct and 3.2oz. What I do is assemble both sides, put the bolts in, fill that side with bentonite then bolt the 2 sides together. Just make sure your side with sprocket and I use nyloc nuts. Every diff I've seen was loose and coming apart. That will easily account for the broken bolts.

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wjustice

Well-Known Member
#12
#12
And just my thoughts on Marine grease. These are made just like auto diffs. No body puts grease in them. Everybody uses gear oil which is very similar to bentonite in consistençy.

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h34choctaw

Member
#13
#13
So if I'm reading you correctly put the side with the sprocket on the bottom while holding the differential vertically, fill with oil to the top of the half, then bolt together? And use which oil or grease? So bentonite is the grease recommended by Peerless but a rear axle oil will work too? I'm wondering if an oil will require more periodic changes than the grease?
 
gumpit

gumpit

#14
#14
I think oil will seep out. Especially because it is cast metal and not meant to be sealed. Also if you have worn bushings it will come out at the axle.
 
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h34choctaw

Member
#15
#15
Yeah I just broke it down and I think oil would seep. It was a booger and kept fighting me the whole way. The axles sleeves were rusted solid on both sides and took two days of soaking in kroil to finally let get it to seperate. Then one of the two bolts on one axle sleeve was rusted in place, another housing bolt stripped, one sheared. Long story got everything separated, cleaned, and I’ll plobanly put a zinc fitting and keep it greased.
 
gumpit

gumpit

#16
#16
h34choctaw said:
Yeah I just broke it down and I think oil would seep. It was a booger and kept fighting me the whole way. The axles sleeves were rusted solid on both sides and took two days of soaking in kroil to finally let get it to seperate. Then one of the two bolts on one axle sleeve was rusted in place, another housing bolt stripped, one sheared. Long story got everything separated, cleaned, and I’ll plobanly put a zinc fitting and keep it greased.
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I'm not a fan of the zirc fittings... when its time to service them they should be taken apart and cleaned. Then you can replace the axle bearings if necessary. Also you can inspect the gears and bushings.
 
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h34choctaw

Member
#17
#17
So how critical is it to only use 3.2 oz? Is there a good ball-park size to use, like say a golfball size and mash it all around in the crevices making sure everything is coated and roll with it?
 
gumpit

gumpit

#18
#18
The problem with Grease is it gets clumpy and doesn't flow. The bentonite is almost like a runny Grease so it gets everywhere. I have taken apart differentials which looks like they used Grease and it's more like hardened mud when it gets dirty
 
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wjustice

Well-Known Member
#19
#19
Bentonite is a very heavy oil type of clay based grease. It doesn't mix with water and is used in most lawn mower/garden tractor diffs. Like I said, when I assemble I make sure of my parts placement. Then put the bolts through and fill that side in a verticle position. Them assemble the opposite side and bolt together with nyloc nuts. I really don't worry about measuring, just fill the one side.

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