What Mini Bike Is This Please, Help Identify!

#63
'Shotgun Throttle' is the name to racers of the 'Timp Trail Riders' gave to their short throw throttle. They referred to it as "pulling the trigger". This was used on Tote Gotes with the Climbaway clutch system which controlled the engine RPM. This should not be used with on bike that requires a governor. I am aware of the governor concerns on this site and agree. It was not my intension to have this posted here.
 
#65
This should not be used with on bike that requires a governor. I am aware of the governor concerns on this site and agree. It was not my intension to have this posted here.
Thanks for clarifying that Richard, you are right, we shouldn't bypass the governors without taking appropriate precautions. Your input on this site over the years, as well as on other digital platforms has had a huge impact on the successful restoration and appreciation of these machines, mine included.
 
#66
I successfully assembled the pull-rope recoil starter today. All I can say is, "Oh, Boy!" It was a challenging task that required a lot of patience and a few choice words. Sailor mouth time! LOL!

Funny enough, after I had already completed the assembly process and thought of doing a tutorial video repair myself, but I found this helpful video tutorial that is specific to the older front-cover Briggs & Stratton design. By the way, clean that crankshaft and the I.D. of the clutch!

In any case, the pull handle starter now works flawlessly and looks better than before. The only thing left to do is set the correct clocking direction of the pull handle, a step I'm saving until the engine is mounted slightly under the frame in its final position.

I will probably start up the engine this coming weekend and hear it run after 45+ years sitting on a shelf. Fingers crossed. LOL!

A helpful tutorial for the older Briggs and Stratton starter spring repair on YouTube

 

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#67
I successfully assembled the pull-rope recoil starter today. All I can say is, "Oh, Boy!" It was a challenging task that required a lot of patience and a few choice words. Sailor mouth time! LOL!

Funny enough, after I had already completed the assembly process and thought of doing a tutorial video repair myself, but I found this helpful video tutorial that is specific to the older front-cover Briggs & Stratton design. By the way, clean that crankshaft and the I.D. of the clutch!

In any case, the pull handle starter now works flawlessly and looks better than before. The only thing left to do is set the correct clocking direction of the pull handle, a step I'm saving until the engine is mounted slightly under the frame in its final position.

I will probably start up the engine this coming weekend and hear it run after 45+ years sitting on a shelf. Fingers crossed. LOL!

A helpful tutorial for the older Briggs and Stratton starter spring repair on YouTube

I will be moving onto the frame within a month, getting electrical service done for the welders in the garage. I can then focus on the frame.
 
#72
It's been a few days since my last post, and tinkering with the Briggs engine project. I made a change to the Air Deflector Bracket (ADB). I found some scrap metal and felt that the copper bracket would not be a good choice over time, along with a rivet. I felt that it may loosen due to vibration. So, here's my little (ADB) idea. It surely is tight, and the Air Deflector won't move. As shown in the attached images, the front section of the bracket was intentionally clearanced to allow adequate access for a socket during installation or adjustment. I also used a square nut, making it look like it's a factory design. Well, LMAO on this one!!! In any case, Happy New Year to everyone here, and see you back here in 2026! I'm still awaiting my electrician friend to help install the electrical for my welders. That's when I can make some small repairs on the frame for this poor old girl.
 

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#73
More from @Richard Trotter that he kindly sent me when I was restoring a similar project.
I am working on a 1970 Briggs 8HP right now and attempting the throttle conversion that Richard has provided. Something is not right, however. When the swivel on the mounting plate is rotated toward the idle position and the rod pulls down, the carb throttle plate goes to the wide open throttle position, NOT the idle position. (Photo # 9 in Dave's reply # 56 above) Does that mean the carb butterfly needs to be flipped? If so, how is that done (how is it disassembled?)
Michael
 
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#74
I'd have to have it in my hands @creia but I know I didn't flip the butterfly around. You may need to weld a bit on the opposite side of the linkage to reverse the throw? @Richard Trotter
Thank you for the reply (and notification to Richard) Dave. For further clarification, in that photo # 9 of your reply # 56 above, on MY carb , when the throttle plate is closed in the idle position, that lever on the carb that receives the upper end of the rod is flopped over on the LEFT side, and is pointing UP. On that photo # 9 it is rotated on the RIGHT side and pointing DOWN.
Michael
 
#75
I'm not sure what I was working on a long time ago, but I do remember removing the butterfly abd flipping the shaft the other way. I also think I had to remove the idle speed screw and thread it in from the opposite side. Thought it was a Tecumseh, but this looks familiar.
 
#78
Epilogue....
I received additional information from Richard Trotter that verified I did indeed need to "flip the butterfly" on my carb so this throttle linkage method would work. Yes, the first thing you need to do is punch out the tiny roll pin on the throttle stop and remove it so that everything can be flipped over and finally reinstall the throttle stop including the roll pin. Many thanks to Richard and all that replied trying to help- much appreciated!
Michael
 
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