I don't think the dimple method is the best way to go on spoke wheels, but I'd be all over a bit of metal tape or folded beer can aluminum.
As long as the bearing doesn't bounce around in the case, it shouldn't matter, since it will spin on the bearing surface way before it spins within the case. If it spins within the case, the bearing would be bad, real bad, damn bad.
Then there's JB weld, a light coat around the bearing. It's one of the original uses for the stuff. Cleans right out too, with a wire brush attachment in your drill. :drinkup:
As long as the bearing doesn't bounce around in the case, it shouldn't matter, since it will spin on the bearing surface way before it spins within the case. If it spins within the case, the bearing would be bad, real bad, damn bad.
Then there's JB weld, a light coat around the bearing. It's one of the original uses for the stuff. Cleans right out too, with a wire brush attachment in your drill. :drinkup:
I had a set of Go Powers off my Bonanza the bearings where real bad and the bearings had anywhere from .010 or so clearance to 1/16 or more in the wheel. In this case the only thing to do is machine the wheel and press a steel sleeve in the wheel. If the clearance is more than a few thousands loctite won't work well jb being thicker would work to a point. Shimming with metal tape has never worked well for me it's a short term fix at best ken
LOL, OP describes gap as "a little to easily," not in fractions of an inch. That is a huge difference in repair methodology.
Also see LocTite 638.
Ken, here's a post where KKK illustrates your technique which is indeed a proper, permanent repair. I imagine you're putting a lot more speed and loading on the kart wheels than these Rupps will see.
Also see LocTite 638.
Ken, here's a post where KKK illustrates your technique which is indeed a proper, permanent repair. I imagine you're putting a lot more speed and loading on the kart wheels than these Rupps will see.
To provide a bit more information and perspective:
The bearing will drop into the hub bearing holder very easily, and you CAN rotate it once it is inside the bore. Side to side play is just barely perceptible. I would "quesstimate" it at a few thousandths of an inch- maybe a little more.
Thank you very much for the replies so far- it has given me direction.
Michael
The bearing will drop into the hub bearing holder very easily, and you CAN rotate it once it is inside the bore. Side to side play is just barely perceptible. I would "quesstimate" it at a few thousandths of an inch- maybe a little more.
Thank you very much for the replies so far- it has given me direction.
Michael
