Who's got kickstand woes?

Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#44
I thought about a welded nut on the front plate, like @sparkwizard said, but it would only fit on the outside and my welds are never good. But you're right because the steel's not thick enough.

So now you guys got me looking at these now...
https://www.mcmaster.com/product/91385A163
...for the front plate.

Now as for the rear adjuster, I'm currently tinkering with a 1/4-20. And I envision that square head screw being a hard stop or bumper for when the kickstand is kicked upward and resting. Again, on the topic of adjustment, I might not need it, but don't want to find out after the bracket is welded on. A rubber bumper could work there, too, I suppose, as that tab could just be bent into place one time.
 

Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#45
Hey @JimN,... that's much better.

In the pic with 2 finished screw holes, the hole below is 5/16-18, and the hole above was done with a 5/16-24 thread tap. I also used a makeshift rig for a drill guide to keep things square and steady when I did the 24. This is where I want to be.

To keep things tight tho, you still don't want to go past the taper with the tap. Just enough to fit and form the rest of the threads with a bolt, and do that part slowly, backing out and in with breaks and cutting fluid. Otherwise you run the risk of overheating the steel and tearing out your new threads. Ask me how I know.

Anyway, I'm excited. And since it's Christmas, I'm also thinking about splurging on some really sweet socket head set screws with special bite teeth and nylon patch locking technology. I'm just waiting to determine whether I need them in 3/4" length, or the super cool, way more streamlined 5/8's version.

Hope everyone gets what they wish for this year. Warmest regards and happy holidays to all.
 

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Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#48
So I've been drilling and trimming, and doing some filing too.

Setting up for the main pivot hole, I decided to shorten the distance between the front adjuster plate and my earlier mark for that hole. In so doing, I moved the drill mark forward, and trimmed an additional quarter inch off the back of the pivot arc. This also had the effect of moving the rear set screw tab further back, such that it will now hover squarely above the kickstand tube. The bracket's also gotten lighter, which is nice.

Sketching ideas for how I might also reduce the width of the front adjuster plates, I settled on just cutting a straight 1/8 inch from their left sides. In hindsight, I wish I'd gone with the double-lobe design, as it would have allowed more room for the hook hole still needed for the kickstand's tension spring. Considering the clearance necessary for that spring's smooth operation, it remains to be seen whether a hook hole in the front plate is even an option anymore.

Anyhow, I'll next be drilling the rear set screw hole, and maybe even that spring hook hole. I'll also be tapping all necessary threads. But here are some pics of the progress described.
 

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Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#49
Tight tapping tip number ten: after you tap with just the taper of the tap, and are cold forming the rest of the threads with your screw, use an intermediary screw, rather than the real one. And use an intermediary that's already worn and won't form the threaded hole too wide. If you don't have worn out screws, you could buy some softer low quality ones from a big box and wear them out ahead of time like also happened to me, and hence the tip. Then you can install your real screw into a very tight hole.
 

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Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#51
Why not run the tap through the hole? It looks like you already have some thread locker.
I learned that running the tap past the taper and onto the shaft makes for a loose hole to begin with. I'd prefer this hole remains relatively tight into old age. The red locker in the pic is a nylon patch and it's not going to last more than one or two adjusts.
 

Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#52
The spring hook holes are drilled. The faces have new profiles to allow the spring to clear. Other holes are tapped and set screws fitted. I left some extra material on the rear tabs just for a rainy day I guess. I'm happy with them.

Next I'll show you why I posted this thread in the first place. Kinda of a thrifty idea I stumbled onto.

And thank you everyone who already shared their own experiences and handiwork. Kickstands always seemed like a trivial thing but I'm sure tired of lifting heavy bikes onto milk crates and greasy lifts after each ride.
 

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Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#54

I'd been avoiding this, but had my eye on these everyday kickstands online I thought could fit the bill for my bikes. And six weeks ago I ordered three of them in a hurry because they were suddenly dirt cheap for some reason, and the reason was that the mounting yoke was backwards so the center pivot bolt had to be screwed in from behind.

They were also too short. So I did what any self respecting kid my age would do and cut it in half out of curiousity. Maybe if I turn it around and weld it rightward; or maybe weld two of em into one, so it's at least a bit longer; or maybe I'm looking at 3 different headaches in terms of length, etc, for each one of the frames and their particular stances.

What I really needed was a design that would adjust to each bike's stance. And once I'd cut one open I thought to check my tapping chart to see if the hole diameter happened to match anything handy and there it was: a 1/2" -13 tap was ideal for that (pre-drilled) hole size and I had a couple of them in the box. Of course, the tolerances of each kickstand tube varied slightly, so each one seemed more difficult than the next. And hand tapping them inside to depths of 1.25 inches was no easy task, but I've managed to eke out a few models that should serve my purposes.

So that's all I wanted to share, and to ask about others experiences. Funny how much thought and struggle you can put into what you think are the littlest things. Well I got schooled and learned a custom kickstand is sure an accessory to be reckoned with.
 

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