I just installed my 22lb valve springs and ARC billet con rod and my ARC billet flywheel in my non-hemi 212cc Predator and I absolutely hate the goofy spring pulled throttle set up on the Predator 212cc with the cheap plastic throttle almost seems like flipping a light switch when compared to the smooth pull throttle of a Mukuni carburetor. I want to install a Chikuni clone on my Rupp Roadster 2 and the Ebay kits come with an intake manifold that is clocked so you can level the carburetor. Since the Rupp has a slanted engine mount will these intake manifolds be able to allow enough rotational movement to level the Chikuni carburetor when mounted on a Rupp Roadster 2? I am going to use the big jet and air filter from the stage 1 kit and install the stage1 kit on my 212cc re-powered Doodle Bug since the engine sits level it will work well in that application.
I will be using a 20 series clone TAV with a 6-inch secondary and I am running the stock camshaft inside the engine so it will still have good bottom-end torque and a smooth idle. I heard the big lobed aftermarket camshafts mostly allow greater airflow and more RPMs at wide-open throttle and sometimes have a bumpy idle due to the large lobes. My goal is to build a solid performing reliable engine that will run great and safely turn not much more than 6000 RPMs at best and I feel the scooper style forced oiled ARC billet rod and billet flywheel I installed with a stock cam should safely allow the engine to turn 5500 RPMs to 6000 RPMs. I heard that running a 20 series TAV on a big wheel bike like a Rupp Roadster will tend to keep the engine from over-revving since it puts a resistance load on the engine unlike freewheeling an engine wide open throttle without a load.
I will be using a 20 series clone TAV with a 6-inch secondary and I am running the stock camshaft inside the engine so it will still have good bottom-end torque and a smooth idle. I heard the big lobed aftermarket camshafts mostly allow greater airflow and more RPMs at wide-open throttle and sometimes have a bumpy idle due to the large lobes. My goal is to build a solid performing reliable engine that will run great and safely turn not much more than 6000 RPMs at best and I feel the scooper style forced oiled ARC billet rod and billet flywheel I installed with a stock cam should safely allow the engine to turn 5500 RPMs to 6000 RPMs. I heard that running a 20 series TAV on a big wheel bike like a Rupp Roadster will tend to keep the engine from over-revving since it puts a resistance load on the engine unlike freewheeling an engine wide open throttle without a load.