Wiped Clean

#1
I have an H35 I’m refurbishing. Had a real time getting the flywheel off after all these years. I have a new set of OEM points and condenser. Years ago, when you got a set of automotive points, they usually had the little felt wiper attached. They also came with a little capsule of grease for same. The Tecumseh I have, this felt pad is separate and didn’t come with the new points. The old one disintegrated when touched. I did find a new one, but it didn’t come with its own lube. Can anyone tell me what type of lubricant to use on this? I’d hate put it all back together to have the points wear prematurely. I never knew what was in those little capsules, but it looked like petroleum jelly.
 
#2
Your old automotive points cam wiper grease was white lithium. I have always used a very small drop of 30 wt oil on my Tecumseh points cam wiper felt. I WAS WRONG. Your question forced me to question what I was doing, and lo and behold, right there in the Tecumseh manual, 3 to 11 HP 4 Cycle L-Head Engines, page 71 it says under "DO NOT" Re-oil the cam wiper in a magneto system.

Any oil, or lint on the points kills them. So the next time I do this, I will not lubricate the felt points cam wiper.
 
#3
Okay, that says re-oil. I have a brand new felt, it comes dry. Now I’m not sure either way. Thanks for the info, I think I have the manual online. Never thought to look in there, duh. I forgot, somebody sent it to me a few weeks ago.
 
#4
Okay, that says re-oil. I have a brand new felt, it comes dry. Now I’m not sure either way. Thanks for the info, I think I have the manual online. Never thought to look in there, duh. I forgot, somebody sent it to me a few weeks ago.
No sir, it says DO NOT re-oil. As if they come impregnated with lube. I am going to guess that the lithium grease the automotive points came with was for lubricating the breaker point pivot point, not the felt/wiper.
 
#5
No sir, it says DO NOT re-oil. As if they come impregnated with lube. I am going to guess that the lithium grease the automotive points came with was for lubricating the breaker point pivot point, not the felt/wiper.
I misworded that, sorry. I was trying to quote you on Do Not Re-Oil. I got that, I found it in the manual. I was talking about initial installation. The new one I got is dry. It’s supposed to have a small amount of lubricant on it, so it keeps the breaker cam lubed. Otherwise the points rubbing block willwear out prematurely. As it wears, the point gap gets closer.
 
#6
I misworded that, sorry. I was trying to quote you on Do Not Re-Oil. I got that, I found it in the manual. I was talking about initial installation. The new one I got is dry. It’s supposed to have a small amount of lubricant on it, so it keeps the breaker cam lubed. Otherwise the points rubbing block willwear out prematurely. As it wears, the point gap gets closer.
You'd think the book would address this right? Either way, they should be lubricated with high temp grease, and it needs to be a dielectric. I don't think anyone has ever seen premature points arm wear on a Tecumseh. I know I haven't and I've rebuilt several. But then what do I know, I've been lubricating felt with a drop of 30 wt.

Once you go through the timing procedure of your rebuilt engine, you will understand why I scoff at the idea of premature wearing of your points block causing timing changes. These suffer much less wear at the points cam.

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Distributor-Grease-Gram/dp/B01JKGVEHW
 
#7
We only get a ten minute editing window, darn it. What I meant to say was that the book speaks to contaminating the points with oil, and causing premature wear on the contact points. If you are using the felt wiper to lubricate the micarta points block, it's misplaced. Yes, I have read on some gear head websites and forums that this is the purpose of that felt pad. I have to wonder though, how an engine mechanic would assume that a tiny dab of white grease was going to be enough to keep the cam lubricated through 20,000 or more miles of engine operation, spanning a year or more.

Some of these Tecumseh engines have been running for decades without ever having the felt pads lubricated, or the points replaced, while being left outside in four seasons of weather.

Just my opinion on another popular notion, being displaced by electronic ignitions- so long ago, that even those Tecumseh engines are considered "vintage" and "antique."

When you go to time the engine, you will need that book, as it has the specs for piston-depth inches BTDC you set the magneto plate at after setting the points at the initial TDC gap of .020. In some cases, you'll need an initial gap tighter than that in order to bring the mag slide into specification. But fear not, they'll still fire as close as .014. And ensure that electrical terminal is snugged up (without the wire of course) while setting this.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#8
I always thought they were impregnated with grease. thats how clinton worded it at least. Their basic instructions said if it became dry you could work some grease back into it, but not to use oil. The concern is it throwing oil.

really want to do it, Heat some grease up till its warm and wet liquid then "dip your wick" Keep it in there for a minute or so and let it suck up some grease and squeeze off the excess.
 
#9
You'd think the book would address this right? Either way, they should be lubricated with high temp grease, and it needs to be a dielectric. I don't think anyone has ever seen premature points arm wear on a Tecumseh. I know I haven't and I've rebuilt several. But then what do I know, I've been lubricating felt with a drop of 30 wt.

Once you go through the timing procedure of your rebuilt engine, you will understand why I scoff at the idea of premature wearing of your points block causing timing changes. These suffer much less wear at the points cam.

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Distributor-Grease-Gram/dp/B01JKGVEHW
It may not be as critical on small engines. I used to be an auto tech. Not your regular dealership hack, I built racing engines at a speed shop. Most points were replaced by electronic ignition, MSD, or a mag. For stock engines, when you bought a new set of points, they came with a little red capsule, looked like a medicine cap. There was a cleanish grease in it that resembled Vaseline. Never knew what kind it was, but it was very important to lube that cam. Many didn’t have the felt wiper, so you just wiped it lightly on the cam itself. Automotive points got replaced much more than lawnmobiles and things. Timing should be okay where it is, I didn’t remove the magneto or move it. Not a full engine rebuild, just cleaning, changing oil, cleaning carb, and changing points, condenser, and plug. This was my son’s mini bike years ago and ran great. Probably would have ran with just an oil change and fresh fuel, but all parts were original and the points were rusty. Had to replace the cover gasket over them.
 
#10
I always thought they were impregnated with grease. thats how clinton worded it at least. Their basic instructions said if it became dry you could work some grease back into it, but not to use oil. The concern is it throwing oil.

really want to do it, Heat some grease up till its warm and wet liquid then "dip your wick" Keep it in there for a minute or so and let it suck up some grease and squeeze off the excess.
I have some hi-temp red grease for wheel bearings. That should work then ?
 
#11
I have some hi-temp red grease for wheel bearings. That should work then ?
No. This calls for white lithium. (times three now, LOL) It is high temperature, and bearing grease is not. White lithium was the stuff supplied in the plastic bubbles with the points. If you are changing points, you are going to want to verify that the engine is still in time. At least I would.

And yes, it does resemble petrol jelly.
 
#12
No. This calls for white lithium. (times three now, LOL) It is high temperature, and bearing grease is not. White lithium was the stuff supplied in the plastic bubbles with the points. If you are changing points, you are going to want to verify that the engine is still in time. At least I would.

And yes, it does resemble petrol jelly.
I may check the timing again, if I can find my Dial indicator. I was reading the procedure in the manual, seems pretty simple. I have some white lithium, but it’s in a spray form.
 
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