WLB's 2013 open class build

WLB

Active Member
#41
Stangrcr1,
the gearing consists of a Comet Series 20 torque converter with a 7 inch driven on the first jackshaft. Also on that jackshaft is a 12 tooth sprocket. The second jackshaft has a 60 tooth sprocket connected by chain to the first 12 tooth sprocket. On the other side of the second jackshaft is another 12 tooth sprocket which connects via a second chain to the rear wheel. With the slight overdrive of the 7 inch driven this should give a torque converter speed range of approximately 3 to 10 mph.

Other than the grass road back to my shooting range, there is nowhere on our Indiana farms or our Mississippi tree farm that I could ever get close to 10 mph. I like to walk around the farms after a rain or snow and check out tracks to see what animals have been there and what trails they are using. I'm old and after a few hours of walking my knees and hips hurt more than I can ignore. I hope to use this bike to ride around at a very low speed (even if I have to put my feet down for balance often) and save wear on the old body. During hunting season I hope to use it to get back into the woods. Terrain there can be very rough with some ravines. I would think that 90% of the time this bike will be used at speeds less than 5 mph. The gearing has been designed to optimize performance in the expected speed range.

Went to my shop yesterday and bent up another, slightly longer bottom frame rail. If it's not too cold to work in the pole barn here at home today I'll mock up everything with the new frame rail. Sure hope OldMiniBikes warehouse gets my driven and belt in soon. I need them in my hand before I can make up the motor and jackshaft mounts.
 
#42
I have no issue with your gearing decision. No need to justify it to me.

I was just making suggestions on how to free up some room around the jackshafts to keep the framerails you had.

I was just looking at CL yesterday and saw a Manco Big Cat and immediately thought of your build and maybe doing a similar one myself someday.

And I really do like the motor forward. Looks right to me.
 

WLB

Active Member
#43
Sorry for the confusion, Stangrcr1. The second and third paragraphs were just general comments about the project and should have been put in a separate post.

I appreciate your comments on the drive train. What you suggested in post 36 is pretty much what I have. I thought about using a much larger rear sprocket and eliminating the second jackshaft but after seeing the diameter decided it would be too close to the ground.
 
#44
Sorry for the confusion, Stangrcr1. The second and third paragraphs were just general comments about the project and should have been put in a separate post.

I appreciate your comments on the drive train. What you suggested in post 36 is pretty much what I have. I thought about using a much larger rear sprocket and eliminating the second jackshaft but after seeing the diameter decided it would be too close to the ground.
No problem. Anytime!

I say keep the second jackshaft. You already have the parts so why not make em work.
 

WLB

Active Member
#45
Since its a new month I guess I should post something so my thread doesn't get deleted. Haven't done much on Mr Goat lately. Been helping a friend that owns RPM Performance (some pics of his shop is on my website www.wlbsite.com ) put a custom air bag suspension frame under a 66 Lincoln 4 door convertible. Seems silly to me but it will be a $250,000 car when they finish it. The car belongs to one of the Indianapolis Colts team members. I'm only doing the fabrication work to connect the car to the frame and make it a full unibody.
I did get the front end taken to pieces and bead blasted, made brackets to hold my jackshaft, and finally got the driven unit of my torque converter today. Hope to do a little mock up work tomorrow.
 

WLB

Active Member
#46


Did a little work on Mr Goat today. I decided to make all the drivetrain parts (engine, first jackshaft for torque converter and sprocket, and second jackshaft) mount to one plate that will be attached to the frame at 6 points with sorbathane biscuits between the plate and the frame. Got the jackshaft brackets welded to the drivetrain plate and cut a piece of 3/4 inch drill rod to length and milled the keyways.

Not a lot of progress but at least going in the right direction.
 

WLB

Active Member
#47


Got a little work done on Mr Goat. Painted the drive pod and mounted everything for a trial fit. Had to trim a little off the back side of the torque converter for clearance. Alignment of the driver and driven and distance were right on and everything aligned like they should. I spent several hours getting everything as near perfect as I could before I welded everything up. I need to make a couple of spacers on the lathe and should have pictures of the drive pod tomorrow.

Working 4 to 5 hours a day helping my friend out with the Lincoln is seriously cutting into the time I have to work on Mr Goat. I think I will have Mr Goat running and drivable by the end of May but it will be a miracle if it is finished. Don't think I can make the molds for the fiberglass fenders by then or sew up a nice seat. May have to duct tape a piece of foam for testing.:smile::smile::smile: There is also one area of the frame that I may want to modify after using it for a few hours.
 

WLB

Active Member
#48


Assembled the drive pod for the final time. I will probably fire it up this week. When the frame is finished I can just bolt it into the frame, connect the throttle, kill switch, and chain to the wheel and it will be ready to ride.

Another thing that may not get finished by the end of May is the mold for the fiberglass torque converter cover.
 

WLB

Active Member
#51


Thanks bigrob.
Got the frame securely tacked. Spend a day or so getting everything aligned. One thing for sure: I will not build the second one without a frame jig. I ended up scrapping most of the previous frame parts. They looked nice (to me) but they added too much width and length. From the above photo this thing looks as long as a car but some of that is the angle I had to take the pic from. Mr Goat will have floor boards instead of foot pegs and these will be added after I get it on wheels and see how wide I can comfortably make them. I debated about making the backbone a reserve fuel tank and may still do that.
I'm through working on the Lincoln until they get some parts in so should be able to get at least the frame finish welded, the front end painted, and put the thing on wheels and get it fired up. The seat, fiberglass torque converter cover, fiberglass fenders, diamond plate floorboards, and frame painting will probably not get done before the end of the month. I'd like to test ride it a few hours before I paint the frame in case I want to change something.
Next job is to strip the frame down, paint the front end, finish weld the frame and add mounts for the seats.
 

WLB

Active Member
#53
Thanks buckeye. I hope it turns out bad to the bone, not just bad:smile:



I got the seat mounts and mounts for the floor boards welded on and the frame all welded up except for the tabs for the DZUS fasteners to hold the side screens on and hand rails/tie down mounts for the back. I thought I had the weld on DZUS tabs but only had the buttons. A friend from RPM Performance said he would bring me in some Monday. Also threaded the rear axle on the lathe, painted the front end, and made the aluminum diamond plate floorboards.

Today's project was to start on the seat. It has been over 20 years since I sewed the seat covers for the Chevelle wagon and Chevelle roadster and I couldn't remember how to make a bobbin. My wife bailed me out and get the machine ready to use and I sewed up the pleats. We didn't have any weld cord so that is as far as I got.

Just 20 days left so I need to get with it. I found a bunch of throttle cable material when I was searching for foam for the seat. Hope I get as lucky on the twist grip and brake levers but forgot to look when I was in the attic at the shop.
 

WLB

Active Member
#54
Well, obviously there was more I forgot about doing upholstery work than how to make and install a bobbin. I screwed up on the pleated part putting the ends on. That was the last of the black vinyl we had so I just did a 10 minute wrap with some black canvas we had. At least I will have a seat when I test.



My friend brought the DZUS brackets and I welded them on as well as the grab handles/ tie down mounts. Checked alignment one more time and disassembled everything to the bare frame and brought it home to paint.

Painting is one of the least favorite things that I do and it usually shows. I've had friends see a finished project and say "you are not painting that, I'll take it home and paint it and bring it back to you." Where are those friends today:smile::smile:
I hung the frame on a tree in the back yard and wiped it down with mineral spirits. As soon as the temp reaches 60 I will prime and paint it. Haven't figured how I'm going to get it down from the tree if it doesn't dry by 8:00 PM
 

WLB

Active Member
#57
Thanks deejaaa

The tree did its job Buckeye. :smile:
I actually got the frame painted without runs. A light wind blew the frame around so I couldn't get to much in one spot. The bad part was that the wind picked up in the afternoon and blew the frame into the tree and skinned the paint in a few places.



Got it on wheels today. I'm pleased with the way it sits. The handlebars that are on it in the photo do not fit the mount well and will not be used. If I didn't need to move the gas tank to the left 2 1/2 inches and shorten the rear axle a little I could have it running by the end of the week.
 

WLB

Active Member
#60
Thanks Buckeye and Spooker.

I got new handlebars, shortened the axle and re threaded it, made the brackets to move the gas tank to the left, and installed the drive pod. Actually my son bolted the pod in place for me since it is now on the ground and difficult for me to work that low. Looks like one of those hydraulic lift tables from Harbor Freight might follow me home some day.
 
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