Working on Rupp Roadster2

#21
Here’s a couple picture of just how much slack I have in the belt. This cannot be right. I have done other cvt on scooters and mini bikes and you have to work the belt down on the driven pulley before there’s enough to get it on the driver. IMG_9597.jpeg IMG_9598.jpeg
 

f4radar

Well-Known Member
#23
The last Roadster I put together the belt didn't have any slack. I thought it was to tight and would take off as soon as the engine started but it worked great.
 
#25
The last Roadster I put together the belt didn't have any slack. I thought it was to tight and would take off as soon as the engine started but it worked great.
Yeah at first the bike wanted to stall but I added a small amount of space between the sheaves then just rode it around and it all settled in.
 
#30
"it needs to look as original as possible keep as many oe parts as we can."
Wouldn't it be better to keep it stock and replace the Rupp TC they work good without problems. I have a pair of Rupp Roaster2 bikes they drive good stock.

Tony
 
#31
"it needs to look as original as possible keep as many oe parts as we can."
Wouldn't it be better to keep it stock and replace the Rupp TC they work good without problems. I have a pair of Rupp Roaster2 bikes they drive good stock.

Tony
I think black widow is the only place with the driven pulley parts they are not cheap and the outer piece with the flyweights is not as good as even the clone 30series driver made to run the original inboard sheave. This was a cost effective and great modification for this bike. I would do it again. The rest is 100% original parts except for the tires.
 
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