Will an aluminum exhaust pipe melt? Yes.

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#21
Tear that down to the block with the crank/rod and piston left inside it. Flywheel still attached and pressure wash and clean.. All that junk is now in between the valve stem and guide. The guide wears out and the valves start rocking back and forth. Then the vacuum sucks oil through the guides and it smokes. Very Very badly. Run a soft barrel cleaner through those guides. Get it all spotless clean and re-assemble it with a torque wrench. Don’t think it’s to far gone I have been and will continue to run worse. 052799E9-FC69-453E-910D-5C18454A6477.jpeg 52C76B8A-3500-433B-94AB-61ED01AF8A64.jpeg
 

Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#23
Robertsons torque tubes. Never had any issues
Your sentence fragment(s) left me hanging. Are you saying Robertson's exhausts need no bracing (or don't melt) per the prior discussion? Or just a comment about overall quality?

Unfortunately Robertson's doesn't seem to cater to any Briggs below 4-5 HP anyway, at least as far as a complete ready-to-use exhaust is concerned (they do have individual parts and add-on mufflers etc) so the point is rather moot.

Because the 3 HP has only a threaded exhaust port and not two holes for a bolt on exhaust (the 4 + 5 horse has both), it is kind of limited in versatility. I looked all over their site and found nothing for a 3 HP Briggs. Maybe I overlooked it.
 
#24
Because the 3 HP has only a threaded exhaust port and not two holes for a bolt on exhaust (the 4 + 5 horse has both), it is kind of limited in versatility. I looked all over their site and found nothing for a 3 HP Briggs. Maybe I overlooked it.
This is my 3hp '92 80102. Please note the drilled and tapped exhaust flange holes. I've never considered using them, as they just don't seem strong enough to use.
 

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Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#25
This is my 3hp '92 80102. Please note the drilled and tapped exhaust flange holes.
Thanks for the education--I'm learning new stuff all the time. Wonder if the tapped holes are just a later addition?

I just checked two of mine. Both are 80202, one 1967, the other 1968 and they have no tapped holes, just the threaded port.
What size screws does yours take, 1/4"-20?
 
#26
Thanks for the education--I'm learning new stuff all the time. Wonder if the tapped holes are just a later addition?

I just checked two of mine. Both are 80202, one 1967, the other 1968 and they have no tapped holes, just the threaded port.
What size screws does yours take, 1/4"-20?
I'm pretty sure they are 1/4-20. This engine came off of a No Name edger. I can't imagine someone went through the bother of doing it post manufacture. But I've been wrong before!

EDIT: my mistake, the engine is a '94 90102.
 
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Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#27
Was that an electrical conduit adapter you screwed in there? If it was, I SUSPECT it was zinc, not aluminum. Zinc does not react with galvanized conduit out in the weather. It also does not like heat.
It was aluminum for sure. I pulled it off the bike and checked the head for slag. Glad I did. Didn't pull the valves tho I think they're good.

Added a fresh spring to the intake side. I noticed that spring is designed with a sort of dual coil pattern where there is more coils near one end. I positioned the "more coils" end at top. Because if I was a valve train that's how I would want to be put together.
 

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Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#28
I'm pretty sure they are 1/4-20. This engine came off of a No Name edger. I can't imagine someone went through the bother of doing it post manufacture. But I've been wrong before!

EDIT: my mistake, the engine is a '94 90102.
So is yours a 3.5 H.P.? I know the 100XXX series is 4 H.P.

To beat the dead horse, I heard later that Briggs got in trouble for false advertising their engines as 16.5 and 17.5 when they were really just 16 and 17 H.P.. I think there was no real change in displacement so it makes me think they've been cheating their horsepower ratings all along, just to generate more sales...

Woops, sorry for the hijack Minimike.
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#33
I like the horn idea!
If it doesn‘t melt I’ll be super happy! I am curious as to how it’s gonna sound. Twisting it into the block had to be done with pliers and a rag.

I really wish I would have spun the longer trumpet into the block first. I don’t like how the longer one looks but the one on it is perfect. I should have tested to see if it would melt with the longer one. that way I don’t ruin the one on it that’s perfect for display.
 
#37
If "A magnet sticks to it", it isn't aluminum and will probably not melt.
It will be interesting to see if the scavenging effect of the tapered exhaust affects the engines running.
Please let us know.

Looks really cool!
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#38
If "A magnet sticks to it", it isn't aluminum and will probably not melt.
It will be interesting to see if the scavenging effect of the tapered exhaust affects the engines running.
Please let us know.

Looks really cool!
I‘m almost sure it’s thin enough it’s gonna either melt or become brittle. Really just a nice display exhaust In my opinion..
 
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