Recent content by cfh

go to the 30 minute mark for results. bottom line, none of the fuel additives worked for greater than 6 months. some didn't even work that long. Darrel calls them all "snake oil."

additives just make you feel better, they don't actually do anything. look at the Darrel videos he did on all those fuel additives and stablizers... bottom line, none of them really do much. a better approach is just to use ethanol free gas. i'm in michigan and it's sold at a lot of gas...

those $12 carbs generally work decent. but you can get a 'bad' one (it happens a fair amount.) the castings aren't great. but if you get the high speed adjustment correct, generally they work pretty well. the high speed adjustment is at the bottom of the float bowl. get the engine warmed up...

this is true. but what i do is powder coat the "super chrome", and then spray a clear coat over the finished powder coat. if you use a powdercoat clear, it totally dulls the chrome look to a gray. with a spray clear (and it can be lacquer or a 1k spray clear), it maintains the super chrome look...

i will check out that leak tester. both engines the valves are nice inside their valve guides. pretty much perfect. as for rings, these are thin ring HS50 engines. really hard to get these rings, in any of the sizes. of course all tecumseh rings are hard to get, or any type. i'm trying to stick...

for those that question my proof of life bench testing engines, here's a video i did on the process i use. this particular motor had compress of 100psi...

I broken out the compression tester and found both motors to be under-par at about 65psi. In my experience anything below 100psi does not run. so i guess that's the problem with them not firing. the thing is, i can't really fix this, since rings are not available. what kills me is the ring gap...

skipp no condenser it's CDI.

try closing the gap? not sure what you mean. spark plug gap is .030 which is what it should be. air gap on cdi is .012 which is stock. regarding valve lifters... they are same (exhaust/intake) and the valve lash is .006 which is stock. i know the flywheel is aligned correctly and has *not* spun...

grabbed another motor from the stack. a late 1990s Hssk50 off a snowblower, with small exhaust valve. now i did nothing to this motor as of yet. just took out the spark plug and dumped some lacquer thinner into the spark plug hole. replaced the plug and turned the motor with the drill. It...

now that you mention it, not sure i've ever fired a small valve HS motor this way on the bench. (i try and stay with large exhaust valve motors, but the late model HS motors are abundant.) I have other engines laying about, let me try another small valve HS as a comparison, and i'll report back...

Ole4 but i always fire my tecumseh hs50 engines "bare" like this on the bench. and they always generally work. and if they don't, after putting them all together with intake/carb/exhaust, they don't fire all assembled either... that's why i do it this way, to get the kinks ironed out. i can even...

flywheel key not sheared. flywheel is tight and to torque spec.

in the past it's been with motors that are pretty spent. so i tend to just part them out. this is the first time it's happened on a motor that had a perfect bore and no apparent wear

I’ve tried multiple plugs no difference The compression release is on the cam lobe. It’s not something you can really remove unless you grind the cam. i’ve had this problem on engines before. Always late model cdi Tecumseh HSSK50 or Lh195 models from the 1990s with small exhaust valve. But...