Massimo Warrior mb 200 Mods question

[RecoilFreak]

I just went through all this with my Warrior MB200 over the weekend. I bought a cheap chinesium TAV2 torque converter off amazon for $78, bought the stage 1 performance kit from GPS (open element air filter and adapter, larger main jet, exhaust header), and unhooked the governor. With stock valve springs and the chinesium TAV2, my add on tach said I was spinning right around 4krpm. Billet flywheel and rod are next upgrades - coming in the mail sometime this week. Off the line torque is enough to pick the front end up even with my 260lb butt on it. No issues climbing steep hills back on my property. Measured top speed of 41mph. I had to grind off the threaded cover mount boss on the 5 o'clock position on the knock off TAV2. I've seen where people raise their engine an inch, cut off a huge chunk of the backing plate, carve off two of the driven pully bearing boss support webs, etc. I didn't have to do any of that with this TC. My engine has a 3/4" shaft. One thing you do need to be aware of - my crank is not internally threaded. I did have to do some grinding with my dremel on the internal key of the slider spacer for the drive pulley to allow a shank lug nut to fit inside and grab onto the end of the externally threaded crank. Took all of 10min with the dremel. The part number of the lugnut I bought at Autozone is Dorman 611-107.1. I think it was like $1.50. It's an M12-1.25 shank style lugnut like we used to use on the multi-fit cragar mags. Some things to consider:

• Center exit pipes will not work with your bike. The fender and center frame support under the seat are in the way. I picked the center exit "trumpet" pipe and had to cut 4 inches out of the middle, rotate the angle, and weld it back together. It is VERY loud. I will be purchasing a cheap pit bike muffler off ebay to tone it down.
• Your crankshaft is most likely externally threaded. The lugnut I mentioned above is necessary to mount the drive pulley on your crank.
• You will need to grind the threaded cover mounting boss (at the lower right hand corner or 5 o'clock position) off the back of the backing plate in order to clear your frame. I did not have to elongate engine mount holes in the backing plate as I have seen others do, nor did I have to carve up the backing plate. I did smack the heat shield/cooling tin up against the cylinder fins for another 1/8" of clearance for the backing plate. You will need to file or grind about 1/16" off the internal keyway on the slider spacer in order for the lugnut to fit through.

This looks like a lot of extra work - it's not. Just giving you the benefit of my very recent experience doing the exact same thing you are looking into. There's nothing wrong with the GX200 honda clone engine that is on your mini. It's the same engine as a predator minus 16cc's, and with a weird D shaped recoil start cover. Spend that $150 on something useful. The carb is the same one that is on a predator - very easy to work on and very versatile. VERY WORTHWHILE UPGRADES. The upgrades listed above turned this into a totally different bike. If you find a solution for no rear suspension, please let me know. That's next on my list after billet engine parts.

 

[RecoilFreak]

I beg your pardon but I have a difficult time believing "up to 40 mph". Are you using the stock jackshaft and gearing with a stock engine?

Do those bikes have a 10 tooth clutch, 20-10 tooth jackshaft and a 50 tooth? If so it would take more than 7000 RPM to get to 40 mph on a 19 inch tire. Probably 7200. Valve float should happen much sooner preventing that kind of RPM and road speed.

Mine would not get to 40mph until I put the torque converter on. The stock gearing on the bike was clutch:10t, jackshaft input:20t, jackshaft output:10t, sprocket:50t.

 

[Geeky]

it 50 in back and 10 in front.

Do I need to remove the back plate for shaft and replace it with torque convertor plate. I have a

I just went through all this with my Warrior MB200 over the weekend. I bought a cheap chinesium TAV2 torque converter off amazon for $78, bought the stage 1 performance kit from GPS (open element air filter and adapter, larger main jet, exhaust header), and unhooked the governor. With stock valve springs and the chinesium TAV2, my add on tach said I was spinning right around 4krpm. Billet flywheel and rod are next upgrades - coming in the mail sometime this week. Off the line torque is enough to pick the front end up even with my 260lb butt on it. No issues climbing steep hills back on my property. Measured top speed of 41mph. I had to grind off the threaded cover mount boss on the 5 o'clock position on the knock off TAV2. I've seen where people raise their engine an inch, cut off a huge chunk of the backing plate, carve off two of the driven pully bearing boss support webs, etc. I didn't have to do any of that with this TC. My engine has a 3/4" shaft. One thing you do need to be aware of - my crank is not internally threaded. I did have to do some grinding with my dremel on the internal key of the slider spacer for the drive pulley to allow a shank lug nut to fit inside and grab onto the end of the externally threaded crank. Took all of 10min with the dremel. The part number of the lugnut I bought at Autozone is Dorman 611-107.1. I think it was like $1.50. It's an M12-1.25 shank style lugnut like we used to use on the multi-fit cragar mags. Some things to consider:

• Center exit pipes will not work with your bike. The fender and center frame support under the seat are in the way. I picked the center exit "trumpet" pipe and had to cut 4 inches out of the middle, rotate the angle, and weld it back together. It is VERY loud. I will be purchasing a cheap pit bike muffler off ebay to tone it down.
• Your crankshaft is most likely externally threaded. The lugnut I mentioned above is necessary to mount the drive pulley on your crank.
• You will need to grind the threaded cover mounting boss (at the lower right hand corner or 5 o'clock position) off the back of the backing plate in order to clear your frame. I did not have to elongate engine mount holes in the backing plate as I have seen others do, nor did I have to carve up the backing plate. I did smack the heat shield/cooling tin up against the cylinder fins for another 1/8" of clearance for the backing plate. You will need to file or grind about 1/16" off the internal keyway on the slider spacer in order for the lugnut to fit through.

This looks like a lot of extra work - it's not. Just giving you the benefit of my very recent experience doing the exact same thing you are looking into. There's nothing wrong with the GX200 honda clone engine that is on your mini. It's the same engine as a predator minus 16cc's, and with a weird D shaped recoil start cover. Spend that $150 on something useful. The carb is the same one that is on a predator - very easy to work on and very versatile. VERY WORTHWHILE UPGRADES. The upgrades listed above turned this into a totally different bike. If you find a solution for no rear suspension, please let me know. That's next on my list after billet engine parts.

Thank you recoil! I really appreciate that. Can I use my old plate as it has the metal cover of bike I can use it? I saw on youtube someone kept the old plate.

Appreciate you sharing the lug nut part number it is a huge help. I do not have grinding equipment. Can I just buy this and it will prevent me having to do the grinding?

Would you mind sharing link for billy fly wheel and rod? It is little expensive trying to find somewhere affordable.


What is this this thing in carburetor?

 

[RecoilFreak]

it 50 in back and 10 in front.

Do I need to remove the back plate for shaft and replace it with torque convertor plate. I have a

Thank you recoil! I really appreciate that. Can I use my old plate as it has the metal cover of bike I can use it? I saw on youtube someone kept the old plate. Appreciate you sharing the lug nut part number it is a huge help.

Would you mind sharing link for billy fly wheel and rod? It is little expensive trying to find somewhere affordable.


What is this this thing in carburetor?

Don’t quote me, but I believe that is crank case ventilation. That’s where you would put a catch can to catch oil vapor from expended pressure inside the engine. I have left mine unhooked for now.

from what I can tell, you cannot use your metal cover with a TAV2 torque converter without modifications. It’s physically smaller than the TAV2 cover and bolts from the front. The plastic torque converter cover bolts on its perimeter. You will need to remove the jack shaft mount plate to install the torque converter.

 

[Geeky]

Don’t quote me, but I believe that is crank case ventilation. That’s where you would put a catch can to catch oil vapor from expended pressure inside the engine. I have left mine unhooked for now.

from what I can tell, you cannot use your metal cover with a TAV2 torque converter without modifications. It’s physically smaller than the TAV2 cover and bolts from the front. The plastic torque converter cover bolts on its perimeter. You will need to remove the jack shaft mount plate to install the torque converter.

updated few details hope that will help.

 

[RecoilFreak]

updated few details hope that will help.

I'm not saying it can't be done - anything can be accomplished with enough time, money, and determination. Keep in mind, the video you shared above was using the TC2 torque converter from GoKartsUSA.com ($189), not the original jackshaft backing plate. When ordering the model listed for the Baja Warrior, it does not come with a cover. You have to specify which cover you want when ordering. After looking at the TC2 and reading through the install instructions, I do not believe you can use your factory cover with the TC2. If the center to center of your driven and drive pulleys change because you're using that original backing plate, you'll have to use a different belt. There are some other discrepancies as well. I pulled the cover off my TC to take come measurements for you:

Driven jackshaft diameter: .780"
Driven pulley shaft diameter: .770"

Driven jackshaft length: 5.163"
Driven pulley shaft length: 6.095"
(You would have to swap the driven pulley shaft to the jackshaft backing plate, and there's a .010 delta in their diameters)

Distance from engine mount face to steel cover mount surface: 3.987"
Length of original backing plate mount: ~3.2"
(You could cut a hole in the center of the drive pully portion of the steel cover for the lug nut to extend through. The lug nut extends past the face of the drive pully .915". Alternatively, you could cut all but 1/4" of the protruding lugnut off, as it is not necessary. I plan to do the opposite - mill some of the "bolt face" of the lugnut off to get more purchase on the externally threaded crankshaft. If I remember correctly, I only got about 4-5 threads into the lugnut. I would much prefer to get most of the threads with the lugnut.)

I can't get an accurate measurement of the center to center distance on both the TAV2 backing plate and the original jackshaft backing plate without removing my TAV2 clone. Just eyeballing it, I can see the original jackshaft backing plate center to center is at least a half inch more than the TAV2 center to center. That means you would have to source a new belt, and unless you can find specs somewhere it's going to be hit or miss on the length. This difference in length explains why people that buy an authentic TAV2 have to trim about a half inch off the two support webs on the back of the driven shaft bearing boss.

My $.02... That's a lot of work to keep your metal cover, when the plastic cover looks just as good and is just as sturdy.

Here is an inexpensive "dremel" tool that will allow you to both grind 3/4 of the keyway out of the drive pulley slider bushing, as well as grind the threaded mounting boss (bottom right corner - the one that hits the frame rail) off the back of the backing plate:
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rot...2&sr=1-3-12d4272d-8adb-4121-8624-135149aa9081

Here is the TAV2 knockoff I bought. So far so good, and I have not been easy on it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089YWFNTJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the video that showed me how to modify the slider bushing:

 

[RecoilFreak]

I forgot one thing - the driven and drive pulleys did not line up with the provided spacers. I had to add two thick 3/4" washers behind the drive sheave (between the pulley and the crank bearing) to line them up. They MUST be lined up when installed or you will burn through belts like crazy. At $20-30/pop... you'll want to make sure everything is lined up.

 

[Geeky]

thank you friend! I really appreciate. I will replace the plate I guess and buy the riser too. https://www.gopowersports.com/engine-riser-kit/

He did not do the cutting for the keyway. I am assuming you had to do all of it to tighten the lug nut. if I put washer it should be good.

Curious can grinder be used to cut stuff. Like chopping of the plate bottom. Also what does it mean by drilled crankshanft. I have drill at home I can just but grinding stone for it.

 

[RecoilFreak]

thank you friend! I really appreciate. I will replace the plate I guess and buy the riser too. https://www.gopowersports.com/engine-riser-kit/

He did not do the cutting for the keyway. I am assuming you had to do all of it to tighten the lug nut. if I put washer it should be good.

Curious can grinder be used to cut stuff. Like chopping of the plate bottom. Also what does it mean by drilled crankshanft. I have drill at home I can just but grinding stone for it.

You don't need the risers. I didn't use them. You need to check your crankshaft to see if it is internally or externally threaded. If it is internally threaded, you don't need the lugnut. If it is externally threaded, you cannot use the bolt/washer. You must use the lugnut.

 

[Geeky]

You don't need the risers. I didn't use them. You need to check your crankshaft to see if it is internally or externally threaded. If it is internally threaded, you don't need the lugnut. If it is externally threaded, you cannot use the bolt/washer. You must use the lugnut.

Hi Recoil. My bike is no longer starting. It was on for a bit on choke and when I move to normal it was revving and not staying. Is it carburetor or engine.

 

[RecoilFreak]

Hi Recoil. My bike is no longer starting. It was on for a bit on choke and when I move to normal it was revving and not staying. Is it carburetor or engine.

Sounds like a fuel delivery problem to me. If it is revving while off the choke, it sounds like a vacuum leak (or your throttle is stuck). Check the two nuts holding the air cleaner/carburetor on the engine. Make sure your throttle linkage moves freely throughout it's full range. The throttle linkage on these engines is very flimsy, and the actual throttle lever is held on with a nylock nut. I have found that most of the time the nylock nut is just a little too tight, and binds the throttle linkage - not allowing it to return to idle.

 

[Charles S]

I beg your pardon but I have a difficult time believing "up to 40 mph". Are you using the stock jackshaft and gearing with a stock engine?

Do those bikes have a 10 tooth clutch, 20-10 tooth jackshaft and a 50 tooth? If so it would take more than 7000 RPM to get to 40 mph on a 19 inch tire. Probably 7200. Valve float should happen much sooner preventing that kind of RPM and road speed.

Those are the sprocket sizes listed on the Baja parts list (they don't list the clutch sprocket tooth count but 10T is pretty much standard). Assuming the clutch is 10T, overall ratio would be 10:1. You are correct, 40 mph would require 7200 rpm.

Edit: Somehow, I didn't notice there was a second page to this thread when I posted. Don't know what's been posted since SAS289's post and I'm not going to read it...

 

[Geeky]

Hi Recoil here is the picture of current clutch. How do I take it out? I tried but the nut rotates too for clutch and chain. I also was not able to find breaker link in chain.

Do I need lug nut and cutting in your opinion.