71 Rupp Roadster Torque Converter Question
- Thread starter Dodgecharger920
- Start date
yup thats exactly what i'm say. set screws holding anything together is a *really* bad idea.
do it like rupp did it. they treaded the end of the jackshaft 5/8-18 so a lock nut could be used to hold the jackshaft parts in place. Or drill it and tap the end of the jackshaft at 5/16-24 and put a bolt/wash at the end. do *not* use set screws for *anything*. get 5/8" ID stainless tubing as spacers for sprockets (if needed), and throw out the set screws.
set screws are for rookies. *especially* with a 30 series torque converter that pulls outward, and a high horsepower predator engine. it *will* come apart with set screws, that's 100% for sure. and it always happens at the worse times...
it's happened to me twice with set screws. once i was 2 miles through woods when the sprocket set screws came off, and the keyway was gone. that was a really long walk. the second time i was on a Harrison at Miland dragway (michigan) when the set screws came off on a 1/4 mile race, leaving the engine at no-resistance WFO, and threw a rod. i will *never* *ever* use set screws for anything. hard spacers and end bolts on the jackshaft is the right way to go.
do it like rupp did it. they treaded the end of the jackshaft 5/8-18 so a lock nut could be used to hold the jackshaft parts in place. Or drill it and tap the end of the jackshaft at 5/16-24 and put a bolt/wash at the end. do *not* use set screws for *anything*. get 5/8" ID stainless tubing as spacers for sprockets (if needed), and throw out the set screws.
set screws are for rookies. *especially* with a 30 series torque converter that pulls outward, and a high horsepower predator engine. it *will* come apart with set screws, that's 100% for sure. and it always happens at the worse times...
it's happened to me twice with set screws. once i was 2 miles through woods when the sprocket set screws came off, and the keyway was gone. that was a really long walk. the second time i was on a Harrison at Miland dragway (michigan) when the set screws came off on a 1/4 mile race, leaving the engine at no-resistance WFO, and threw a rod. i will *never* *ever* use set screws for anything. hard spacers and end bolts on the jackshaft is the right way to go.
I second the motion on set screws. Always drill and tap the jackshaft or an old crank and hold things on with a bolt and washer. Set screws mar up the shaft and makes taking things apart harder and you cannot look at them and tell if they have loosen up. The next thing you are looking for parts on the street or in the woods. Yes it is a little more work but well worth the extra effort. It gives it the professional look.
You cannot torque down a set screw enough and when you try, you end up rounding out the hex and then you are drilling it out. CFH is giving very good advice and he admits he learned the hard way.
You cannot torque down a set screw enough and when you try, you end up rounding out the hex and then you are drilling it out. CFH is giving very good advice and he admits he learned the hard way.
i don't think you'll have any problem with the original TC1 plastic cover. the rupp driver has the garbage disposal wings that come out, where the comet does not. hence the cover has plenty of room for the comet. yes you will have to align the torque converter driver to the driven. i go to tractor supply and get a bag of 3/4" washers (they have them in the chain aisle), and use them to get alignment correct. now i haven't done this on a rupp, but nearly every bike needs some tweaking to get a new driver torque converter aligned with the driven. if it's more than a couple washer i might TIG tack them together to be one unit, so i don't loose them when doing service. use your new 203578 belt as the alignment tool to get it right.
