Recent content by JimmyRigged

Stock valve springs will float around 5k so you wouldn't be able to rev past that so there's your limiter...not suggested to drive around bouncing on the valve float all day but a few good revs shouldn't kill em

Got my parts this morning and got my engine assembled a little bit ago and oiled and gassed up and it started and ran but man was it a cold blooded beast! Ended up with a few more parts than I was originally going to do (it was addicting haha). Ended up getting a gx160 head, cam, rockers, carb...

I had a lightly Modded predator on a kart of mine (less r flow for cooling than a mini) and we would run it all night (4-5hrs) at the parking lot races and we would run it hard without shutting it off and it never gave me an issue just keep changing that oil and do plug readings often to make...

I set myself a $500 budget now that I've gotten off the course of my stage 1 nr-racing kit so I hope I can get everything I want. What kind of HP can I expect out of the order list I made above with the addition of a cam and rockers?

Ya, the more I keep ordering stuff and looking into parts the more my simple build is turning into a wallet thinner because now I'm looking at heads and cams too haha

Are the 1.3 rockers bolt on or does anything need to be changed to make them work?

So parts ordered: 18# springs, 140 etube, #90 main jet, header, filter & adapter, choke lever holder, gasket kit, billet rod, aluminum flywheel, Honda flat top piston & OEM rings, ngk plug, and indexing washers...is there anything else I'm missing or suggested I do?

I asked if there was a reason to replace the crank besides added power, I was wondering if that was weak too. I wasn't looking for anyone's approval, I've never done business with nr before and I was wondering if their stage 1 kit was decent quality stuff and what else was recommended in a basic...

The reviews on that steel flywheel arent any better than running stock...I'm just going to go aluminum.

What's the best rod and flywheel to get if cost is a concern? Would nr racing be the best place to order from? And is there reason to replace the stock piston or crank? (Besides added power)

I've read all the stickys and I'm aware of the (very few) horror stories and the motor hasn't been ran since the removal and its on a reet only mini (we parking lot race them) and I'm not opposed to getting billet parts I was only asking if its really necessary.

Thanks, I went with the #35 (its was easier to piece it all together and a little cheaper)

I'm pretty sure the carb is a direct bolt on, valve springs also...?

And I took your advise and dropped to a 60 tooth rear sprocket (haven't tried it out yet)

I understand the need for stronger rod and flywheel on a China motor but is it really necessaryon the Honda? I've never seen or heard of anyone detonating a OEM Honda flywheel or rod. I ordered parts today (#90 main jet, gx140 e tube, header, filter/adapter, 18lbs springs, 8 degree timing key...