Recent content by JimN

I don't know. If you took the carb all apart and sprayed it, poked it, blew air through it, you might be better off returning it for a replacement, if you can. The chances of getting 2 bad carbs in a row seem pretty remote to me.

This should help you a little bit. About 12 years ago @metalhead100 posted this. https://oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/honda-clone-basic-carb-cleaning-detail-pic.63632/

Welcome. Some of these threads should help you out. https://oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?search/1816441/&q=%22db30+engine+swap%22&o=date

Good job with the chain steering wheel.

Larger diameter roller guide/tensioner. Spring operated perhaps.

I would put in new spark plug just to take that out of the equation and if it still doesn't start after a few pulls either, put the old flywheel back on and test or retard the new one about 4*. With the minimum coil gap required for either one. He doesn't mention if he verified his actual timing.

+1 Looking good. :cool:

As punishment for my ignorant statement, I will copy and paste "I will not post a premature and ignorant statement." 100 times on a Word document, and then go weed the garden.

Awesome shop. :cool:

This one was solved, zero compression.

I'm thinking weld 2 pipes to the bottom of the seat pan that the bars can slide thru. then cross drill holes and run a pin thru them. Or a flat plate with pipes welded to them that bolts to the bottom of the seat pan. Remove seat and use flat head screws to tapped holes in plate or clearance...

I have no rebuttal to those statements. :D Except to say I was remiss in not mentioning, albeit not as well as you just did, that over packing and compatability are issues that need to be taken into account.

That might have been the unkindest cut of all.

:D https://dictionary.cambridge.org/us/dictionary/english/vague https://search.brave.com/search?q=which+mini+bike+to+get%3F&source=web