Recent content by ole4

Skipp dis you weld that. Tig?

That is coming out great. Love those bikes.

Yes and sort of, length from intake. Bellmouth of the velocity stack, then carb length then manifold and head runner equaled 10 inches.

If you want a general purpose manifold that puts the carb where you want it then that would work OK. Forget any intake tuning. Just a small turn in an intake can rob Airflow. Air likes to go in a straight line. Our cast cylinder heads have a rather sharp turn into the valve which has to be...

Is that a 350 3 cyl or a 500?

Are you living in Sun City?

Great to see you on here Neighbor! Did you ever get your Skat Kitty going?

So if it pulls ok when plug is removed then it is a compression issue either exhaust lash too loose or cr broken. More likely lash not set a few degrees after tdc on compression stroke.

I just put a pwk 24 on a modded 212 predator and it runs great out of the box

Pretty sure this was a aftermarket 20 series. used it with a spaced driven pulley (3/4" symmetrical belt) on my Powell Works great even though the driven is fixed can change ratio with the shift lever that changes belt tension.

Plain bearing PTO?

I built a similar setup and found that without a water trap after the cooling radiators the water still went into the main tank but the temp of the air in the tank was much cooler, and it held less moisture. I added an old air trap (to collect the water from the radiators) and never have even...

One of my bikes has a hall effect speedo and it only worked when engine was off. I put a resistor plug cap on and it fixed it. The motor in the picture is on my Powell and nothing electronic on it.

There is a pin like thing in the bottom of the coil hole that sticks into the center of the plug wire. I had a roll of accel wire I push in the hole and silicone it in.

I have taken them apart to clean and rewire. The coils are held on with stainless steel clips. I just clean the coils with purple power and rinse then reattach new wires.