1970 Speedway Shrike

[speedwayshrike]

I am new to this forum. I have been restoring 1960's and mid 1970's American minibikes for nearly 30 years. I am currently working on the restoration of a one year only 1970 Speedway Shrike. The only thing I need to complete thisisa very rare 5 inch Salsbury driven for the torque converter. The one on this project is hopelessly rusted though. Any leads would be appreciated. I also have accumulated sto k pile of various Bonanza parts, some used and some still in the bag. Reach out to me if you are looking for something.

 

[ole4]

I've used the 6" Salisbury driver on speedways, just requires a bit of clearance work. .

 

[speedwayshrike]

I've used the 6" Salisbury driver on speedways, just requires a bit of clearance work. .

 

[speedwayshrike]

Yes, I eyed up a 6 inch Comet driven and it was tight but it may work. Just trying to keep this as it came from the factory.

 

[Ajf]

Yes, I eyed up a 6 inch Comet driven and it was tight but it may work. Just trying to keep this as it came from the factory.

6“ wont Work on a 70-71 speedway. It has to be the 5” speedway made driven.

 

[cfh]

You can use a 6" comet series20 driven on a Speedway (either Shrike or Scarab.) I do it all the time. it's a huge performance increase, and parts are available. The 5" speedway gig is just a bad idea, and parts are impossible to find. It also uses a 3/4" belt instead of the original 5/8" belt. Yes a slight motor plate modification is needed to do this. But man it's *so* worth it.

Speedways and Rupps are often compared because they are both made in the same Ohio town. But if you do a 6" comet upgrade to a 10" wheel speedway, it really pushes it past the Rupp. Both brands have up and down sides. And frankly rupps torque converter is better than the Speedway 5" unit. Again with this modification, it makes a Rupp a second class citizen.

http://www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/p/speedwayfix3.jpg
http://www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/p/speedwayfix6.jpg
http://www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/p/speedway_shrike2.jpg

 

[speedwayshrike]

You can use a 6" comet series20 driven on a Speedway (either Shrike or Scarab.) I do it all the time. it's a huge performance increase, and parts are available. The 5" speedway gig is just a bad idea, and parts are impossible to find. It also uses a 3/4" belt instead of the original 5/8" belt. Yes a slight motor plate modification is needed to do this. But man it's *so* worth it.

Speedways and Rupps are often compared because they are both made in the same Ohio town. But if you do a 6" comet upgrade to a 10" wheel speedway, it really pushes it past the Rupp. Both brands have up and down sides. And frankly rupps torque converter is better than the Speedway 5" unit. Again with this modification, it makes a Rupp a second class citizen.

http://www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/p/speedwayfix3.jpg
http://www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/p/speedwayfix6.jpg
http://www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/p/speedway_shrike2.jpg

I happen to have a vintage TAV30 new in a sealed box. Any reason why that would not work?

 

[speedwayshrike]

I happen to have a vintage TAV30 new in a sealed box. Any reason why that would not work?

 

[cfh]

I don't think a series30 will work on a speedway. On a series20, the driven part moves inward towards the center of the frame. on a series30, the driven part moves outward. i just don't think it will work without major modifications. and to what end? the series20 works great with just a slight mod.

 

[Ajf]

I happen to have a vintage TAV30 new in a sealed box. Any reason why that would not work?

6” won’t work without hacking and devaluing your vintage speedway. Keep it original as the speedways aren’t as plentiful as the Rupp’s. You can find an original driven if you keep your eye out for one. I’m thinking about reproducing them in the future.