AAAGGGHHH! Tappered shaft!
- Thread starter N-gin
- Start date
Hey Now no hijacking my tread. :hammer:
:blink:But To answer your question for about $200 you can get a 5.5 honda clone to put out 10 horses and about 5,000 rpm.
Now back to my question...
Is there a site I can go to for purchasing a clutch to fit one of these.
Orange arrow shows the shaft out of the engine, also known as the crank.
The purple arow is the shaft diameter of 3/4.
Red arrow shows the tapper were the apporatis seats on and locks into place.
Lastly the green arrow is were the bolt holds the apporatis down to the seat locking it in place.
:blink:But To answer your question for about $200 you can get a 5.5 honda clone to put out 10 horses and about 5,000 rpm.
Now back to my question...
Is there a site I can go to for purchasing a clutch to fit one of these.
Orange arrow shows the shaft out of the engine, also known as the crank.
The purple arow is the shaft diameter of 3/4.
Red arrow shows the tapper were the apporatis seats on and locks into place.
Lastly the green arrow is were the bolt holds the apporatis down to the seat locking it in place.
Comet offers some drive components made for tapered crankshafts...
Some of the old Cushman Scooter engines had tapered cranks, and Comet makes torque converter components to fit them...
Maybe you could send them an e-mail with the dimensions of your crankshaft, and they can advise which of their products will fit...
They make dozens of different driveline components for OEM use, most of which aren't spec'd to the general public, but maybe if someone asks...
...or, just get a machinist to make you a sleeve or taper-bore your clutch.
Some of the old Cushman Scooter engines had tapered cranks, and Comet makes torque converter components to fit them...
Maybe you could send them an e-mail with the dimensions of your crankshaft, and they can advise which of their products will fit...
They make dozens of different driveline components for OEM use, most of which aren't spec'd to the general public, but maybe if someone asks...
...or, just get a machinist to make you a sleeve or taper-bore your clutch.
Yelowhand
I turned a shaft down, in an old Southbend, without removeing the crank. Pulled flywheel and chucked it. Steadyrested the shaft and set the compound for 30 degrees and made a center in the output end. It had a 1/4 tapped hole in it. Then, of course, the rest was simple. Yes, the block was immobilized and the spark plug was removed. Piece of cake.
I turned a shaft down, in an old Southbend, without removeing the crank. Pulled flywheel and chucked it. Steadyrested the shaft and set the compound for 30 degrees and made a center in the output end. It had a 1/4 tapped hole in it. Then, of course, the rest was simple. Yes, the block was immobilized and the spark plug was removed. Piece of cake.
Eventually, I'm going to do a project thread on an engine rebuild involving turning down a tapered crank and also turning down the flywheel...
I have a Tecumseh HM scavenged from a chipper/shredder that has a 7/8" tapered crank and an 8lb flywheel...the rod knocks, so it's a good candidate for conversion to a minibike engine...
I've been waiting to do this engine until I find a 'deal' on a horizontal mill suitable for my garage...once I find one, I'll set it up to cut 5/16" keyways, and we'll start turning down some of these tapered cranks everyone here at OldMiniBikes seems to have hanging around their garages...
Cost should be just mailing the crank to me in Nebraska, and return mailing back to the owner...
I think it will be appealing to most people if there is a project thread showing the procedure and cost of parts (gasket kit, etc.) for a simple rebuild...
Tools like spring compressors and valve lapping kits are cheaply available at most local auto parts stores...
I have a Tecumseh HM scavenged from a chipper/shredder that has a 7/8" tapered crank and an 8lb flywheel...the rod knocks, so it's a good candidate for conversion to a minibike engine...
I've been waiting to do this engine until I find a 'deal' on a horizontal mill suitable for my garage...once I find one, I'll set it up to cut 5/16" keyways, and we'll start turning down some of these tapered cranks everyone here at OldMiniBikes seems to have hanging around their garages...
Cost should be just mailing the crank to me in Nebraska, and return mailing back to the owner...
I think it will be appealing to most people if there is a project thread showing the procedure and cost of parts (gasket kit, etc.) for a simple rebuild...
Tools like spring compressors and valve lapping kits are cheaply available at most local auto parts stores...
Here is a picture of a really "half asked" set up I used to keyway a shaft on a military model Clinton. Note the waterproof spark plug and wire. The shaft was steadied by holding the pair of Vice-Grips locked on the shaft! It is necessary to have a DR extension and collets to reach the shaft with an endmill. But as you can see... it can be done.
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