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Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#21
I am nearly 100% sure the bars on the mega scrapper are made from a rototiller... The tube is the same OD as My rototiller tubing. The one side is ground down for the throttle like I’ll have to do. The bars even have the holes for the tillers belt lever. I’m just modeling everything after those bars and it seems straight forward enough. 89B7F6E4-ECD0-4F13-B6DA-C4058F676306.jpeg 6EA641CF-706E-4F7B-B6D6-FD112917EAFD.jpeg 50DA3182-EAAF-4027-9C6F-02ABEFC4D1B0.jpeg
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#23
These bars are still 2” short before I weld anything solid I‘m gonna hunt around for a slightly longer middle section and I do plan to plug and rosette weld if it matters to anyone. 0EFD4F06-54B6-48E2-8CEC-DDE8D4C16181.jpeg
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#24
Edited picture can anyone with a Dbx10?? The dB minibike that has the flame decal down the side measure the bar length?? The mini scrapper has real low short bars and it was a small bike. I might just run with slightly shorter bars.. I don’t want them shorter then the DBX stock bars though. 12B66083-51D7-4FDA-9CC5-175FB187D2CB.jpeg
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#26
I have a CT100U I can measure. Will that help?
Yupp sure would! I remember the miniscrapper bars being real low and it wasn’t a problem. These bars will be shorter then the mega scrappers but again I’m really hoping the bars i’m building are slightly taller then a stock newer style bike.
 
#30
From the axle to the top bend is 27 inches. Axle to the lower bend, above the trees is 17 inches.
The top bend is not 90, it's more like 80 degrees. max width at the grips is 23 inches.
This is a CT100U, not the DB with the straight bars.
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#35
I cut off the rototiller hitch plate then cut the plate down the middle and trimmed as needed. Now I have two exact plates with matching holes for the fork tree clamps or whatever they would be called.

Nothing is welded to The tree clamps it’s all just laying there for a visual of how to continue.. It’s 90 out and I’m fryin 2E725313-6D32-48FE-9912-2D0768D7AF2E.jpeg 35472284-733B-49CB-A93F-6D3615A6BC96.jpeg
 
#38
For a cut up rototiller these came out better then I expected.. View attachment 315899
I'll say !

Most of us would still be walking around bitching about having to buy a set of forks. Then wasting time searching for a source.

And here you are repurposing stuff that's easily available, and mainly free.

All done on that huge flat work surface (aka the ground ... lol) and two days later you have complete forks, paint and all !

Those forks look great to me.
 

Davis

Well-Known Member
#39
All I see is a butt weld without a sleeve. I wouldn’t trust that for anything. you idiots root this on WTH?
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#40
All I see is a butt weld without a sleeve. I wouldn’t trust that for anything. you idiots root this on WTH?
No you got that wrong these bars on the big 8hp bike are not sleeved. These blue bars I made are sleeved and rosette welded probably better then the green bikes.. B1F33EB0-9689-4813-BF71-CD0ACADCDFC7.jpeg
 
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