Building HS40

#1
So I’m about to start on my mini bike build And of course I’m looking for some more power. Have a 1970 Tecumseh HS40 and was wondering how much you can have the head shaved on it? Bump that compression up some
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#4
what valve spring is everyone running ?
that all depends on the cam you plan on using. can put you in the pall bark.
for example: if you just want to stay with a stock cam ,but still want to rev it little higher and it will when engine is setup correct and do not forget to use a billet rod. the old style stock hs-rods will break.
i would go with the animal retainers and keepers and animal 16 pound spring. all this will give you the correct valve spring setup.
some people in the pass have just shim there springs to make them stifffer,but then you can run into problems too with coil bind or even worse. have your 40+ year old springs just break. not worth going down that path. for little amount of money you can purchase the new parts. i call that cheap insurance..:thumbsup:
i'm not a real big fan on milling alot on a flathead. i would stay away from milling alot and try to concentrate on gaining power different ways and there is alot of ways of getting more power out of a flathead then trying to mill the head.
in my opinion i think milling the head is the least amount of power gain in a flathead engine. something else to think about too. go to youtube and study how the frame travels across the head on a flathead. you can clearly see it needs the space for everything to travel back and forth correct. if you tighten up that air space? kind of like choking it.


not a engine expert......just a gearhead.....:scooter:
 
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#5
Well pulled the clutch cover off last night only to find that my crank is broke flush with motor on clutch side so looks like I’ll be starting with a different motor. I’ve got a 6hp Tecumseh I’ll probably use on it. Plan to at least replace the valve springs maybe a cam depending on price. Where is best place to get the animal springs ?
 
#7
Well decided to go with the 5hp Briggs instead but I’ve got it mounted and running but waiting on my new throttle cable and new performance carb to come in suspose to be here Wednesday 44DD5664-988E-4168-B05C-661EB9A2C85F.jpeg
 
#8
Got the new 20mm carb on. Required just a touch of modification but man does it run good now! Still waiting on my torque converter setup then it will be almost time for a test ride and then take it all back apart for paint. D8C75934-D575-48A5-AC47-31F25963E031.jpeg 3AFFA68C-3085-443C-8BFA-E2181D9AB21C.jpeg 56F1FF1F-65CC-48BC-A787-F6F1457A00CB.jpeg
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#12
DELRAY
that all depends on the cam you plan on using. can put you in the pall bark.
for example: if you just want to stay with a stock cam ,but still want to rev it little higher and it will when engine is setup correct and do not forget to use a billet rod. the old style stock hs-rods will break.
i would go with the animal retainers and keepers and animal 16 pound spring. all this will give you the correct valve spring setup.
correction on this if you where doing a flathead hs-40 motor. use dynocams retainers for flathead briggs . you have to machine little inner step of to clear the animal spring. this will give you the correct spring height (.800)

left animal and center dynocam


left dynocams and on the right animal retainer

also note on the keepers where the locks are at. I have seen animal's work before,but never seen where the locks where position. here is a picture of animal's that did have the correct height on a hs-40 flathead.
 
#13
112B4A1D-BEED-43E1-B0CF-55BDBAAA7213.jpeg
Well got the ol bike going today new torque converter on and new jack shaft still got to put the timing advance key in but as you can see it’s got some torque!
 
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