Cyclops L 400 rebuild making progress

#1
68 Cyclops rebuild coming along.

Original frame w/ new black paint job, foot pegs re-attached w/ replica grips, original controls, powder coated original wheels (w/ new rear Sprocket), new tires mounted(what a B@#?!h), new inner front fork springs with retainer added to prevent fall out, N/R yellow clone phase 1 mod, re-furbished original bendix 5" brakes, replica seat ( not yet on the bike), final assembly underway. We have a roller with power. Engine broke in on the bench and she runs good, sounds bad!

Controls, seat, chain guard, rear fender, kickstand adjustment, and decals left to do. Gone back to work so this really is a hobby right now. Maybe done by Thanksgiving.
Thanx to all that have offered assistance, advise and suggestions, especially Leathernun666, Supernova, Bill Ellerbe, and Enzo Ferrari

 
#4
this one never had one

mine never had a headlight, so i do not plan to add one. I got this one when I was 12 so I know it from factory original condition.
 
#8
Looking good. FYI...


when i first started riding mine and i would turn either right or left with a slight lean, the rear axle would slide out on the non-sprocket side. I had to make a bracket/plate that held the axle in place, and bolted the plate to the frame. This eliminated the problem 100%
 
#9
thanks

I do not believe I will have the problem with the factory wheels and original set up but if I change out to Azusa wheels, I wheel keep that in mind.
 
#10
10-4

I'm not sure the frame/axle cares what wheels you are running. The way the rear axle slides into the frame on the right side is suspect.

Out of curiosity, what do the original rims (which I still have) provide that the Asuzas don't?
 
#12
original vs asusa/ rear wheel mounting

original wheels only offer original part vs Asusa. Trying to keep it as original as possible except engine. I have a set of asusa's and a sprocket that I was goiing to use until I found a machine shop that could cut the old sprocket off the original wheel and then weld a new sprocket in its place. As far as the rear axle sliding in and not being secure, if you have a jam nut and washer on the inside and the outside of the mountingplates, and space out with washers in between the wheel and inside jam nuts and brake, it cannot come out or go anywhere? sounds like you may not have used jam nuts on inside of the mounting tabs. Not sure I understand why yours was a problem. The mounting hardware I described above was the way the original bikes were rigged and I never had one come uncorked.
 
#13
your right about the wheels the tires were a mother to get on, and on the axles, i have restored my L-400 about eight months ago and ride it at lest once a week and have not had a problem, I used the original axle with the jam nuts.
 
#14
I did not use jam nuts on the inside of my Cyclops...perhaps my problem.

However, it is such a pain in the eggs to fix, I'll leave it as is since it works just fine.

Mine is more of a resto-mod than a true restoration so "exactness" doesn't need to occur.
 
#17
will take the pics and send as soon as I can. I used the original brake shoes which had plenty of brake left on them. found a place in Houston that said they could reline them but never tried them out,and have also found location through the forum that sells brake lining material that you can epoxy on the old shoes yourself. Try searching relining brakes and see what you find here on the forum, and I will also go back and see if I can find the name of the company that sells the material. McMaster-Carr is the company that has the relining material. link www.mcmaster.com.
 
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