Enamel and Lacquer Question
- Thread starter zipseattle
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You may need to color sand or wet sand it first. Enamels will work over lacquers, but lacquers will not work over enamels. Single stage urethane enamel IMO is the best option. It looks like it has been cleared. It's basically clear urethane with pigment added. NAPA can match just about any color, or if you're lucky, they'll let you pick and choose what you want to add, like pearl powders, flakes, etc. Lacquers require polishing if you don't clearcoat them.
That's a single stage urethane enamel we painted on my girlfriends go-kart. There are some ups and downs about it. It's held up to oil/fuel without problem.
But, you need to be a semi-experienced painter to use it. I found the best way to spray it, is spray a nice "dusting" over the whole thing and let that sit a few, then hit it heavy and most importantly, EVENLY, otherwise you'll end up with "dry spots" where the paint didn't get on thick enough.
And since it's a two part paint system, it is kind of a pain to touch up.
I don't want to be a killjoy here but I feel compelled to warn you of the inherent dangers of spraying any urethane paints. Precautions must be taken of which the most important is a top notch respirator and adequate ventilation. Urethane paint is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. If you want more info on this google HAMB. Once you are in the site search urethane paint for an education on what can happen if you don't heed this warning.
I am a novice when it comes to these new automotive finishes. Hent, the paint looks like a two stage because of the gloss.
The paint I used was very expensive. Too-much!
etching primer 20-can
high build primer 20-can
2-cans color 80-
20- a can,, the clearcoat was incredible! It had a red button on the bottom! Everything to this point was spray and go! Now, this clear is the bomb! Spray light then heavy almost till it runs and color sand 3 days later with 1500-then 2000 wet to remove overspray. Then, use Mequire's scratch remover and bingo your done! Find the red bumb clear!!!
The paint I used was very expensive. Too-much!
etching primer 20-can
high build primer 20-can
2-cans color 80-
20- a can,, the clearcoat was incredible! It had a red button on the bottom! Everything to this point was spray and go! Now, this clear is the bomb! Spray light then heavy almost till it runs and color sand 3 days later with 1500-then 2000 wet to remove overspray. Then, use Mequire's scratch remover and bingo your done! Find the red bumb clear!!!
you dont want to use single stage enamel like rattle can stuff as gas will eat it right up, you also don't want to wait more than 24 hours before clear coating unless you wetsand the paint prior to clear coating as the clear will not adhere and will peel and flake in time..
2 part urethane is definately the best way to go..
here is a pocket bike I did in a custom pearl black laquer with urethane clear..
2 part urethane is definately the best way to go..
here is a pocket bike I did in a custom pearl black laquer with urethane clear..
Paint is kinda like black magic to me, there appears to be alot to it that requires an education, experience, trial and error, would power coating be a reasonable alternative, powder coating is fuel proof, right? Is the main drawback the expense of having it done? Is there a downside to powder coating?
powder coating is awesome, very durable, resists most fuels and chemicals, it is basically powder form of plastic that is melted over the part..
Expense is not bad, I've heard of guys having frames done for $50-$100...
I was looking into a home system and using a large electric oven, it would be good for engine parts, wheels, ect... basically anything that would fit in it....
The drawback is if you have any bondo work or other fillers it wont stick...
The upside is that it's nearly indestructable compared to conventional paint..
Expense is not bad, I've heard of guys having frames done for $50-$100...
I was looking into a home system and using a large electric oven, it would be good for engine parts, wheels, ect... basically anything that would fit in it....
The drawback is if you have any bondo work or other fillers it wont stick...
The upside is that it's nearly indestructable compared to conventional paint..
For rattle can paint Duplicolor is about as good as you'll find.... The DC really looks good with a nice two part clear cote.... The black pearl bike I posted on the first page was duplicolor black that I mixed green flip flop pearl in, sprayed it through my touch up gun and then used a 2 part urethane clear..
Thanks New Age, most any crappy paint can be made to look good, clear coat is the trick, if you can get the color to lay down even without splotches or zebra stripes, a good clear will make it look like a million bucks...
If you have a small touch up gun you can take the paint, poke a small hole in the bottom with the can standing upside down and bleed off the pressure, after the pressure subsides pour the paint in a clean jar and let it set for a day with a lid just laying on the jar so the rest of the propellant can escape the paint itself.. After all the propellant has dispursed pour it in the gun and spray away..
If you have a small touch up gun you can take the paint, poke a small hole in the bottom with the can standing upside down and bleed off the pressure, after the pressure subsides pour the paint in a clean jar and let it set for a day with a lid just laying on the jar so the rest of the propellant can escape the paint itself.. After all the propellant has dispursed pour it in the gun and spray away..