H50 pull starter screw & decal

Mini Bike & Go-Kart Parts

#1
Few questions one stupid the other legit.

Was the "hot plate" decal (see pic) on this old H50 from late 60's early 70's put on by Tecumseh, the mini bike manufacturer or the owner? Does that mean it has the lighting coil or something like that?

The other question is one of the thread inserts for the pull starter assembly came out of the blower housing. It has 3 other screws but would like this forth one with the force put on assembly when pulling rope to start. Or can a nut & bolt be used? Is there enough room where the nut wont hit flywheel? Would like to repair before painting the engine. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#2
Few questions one stupid the other legit.

Was the "hot plate" decal (see pic) on this old H50 from late 60's early 70's put on by Tecumseh, the mini bike manufacturer or the owner? Does that mean it has the lighting coil or something like that?

The other question is one of the thread inserts for the pull starter assembly came out of the blower housing. It has 3 other screws but would like this forth one with the force put on assembly when pulling rope to start. Or can a nut & bolt be used? Is there enough room where the nut wont hit flywheel? Would like to repair before painting the engine. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for the help.
I almost thought you were joking...that was a company that made BMX (and other?) number plates back in the early 80s. If you're going to weld a nut on or just use a loose nut and bolt I would "clay" to measure the clearance between the flywheel fins and shroud to see how much room you have to work with. The H engines have a little more room than the HS but it isn't much. You can buy those rivnuts(sp?) but you have to buy the tool to install them. Find somebody with one, if you're lucky?
 
#3
I almost thought you were joking...that was a company that made BMX (and other?) number plates back in the early 80s. If you're going to weld a nut on or just use a loose nut and bolt I would "clay" to measure the clearance between the flywheel fins and shroud to see how much room you have to work with. The H engines have a little more room than the HS but it isn't much. You can buy those rivnuts(sp?) but you have to buy the tool to install them. Find somebody with one, if you're lucky?
Hey mustang, Thanks for the reply & info. Like I posted figured it was a stupid question. It came with an almost complete original Fox bike so didn't know.

Think I will check out the clearance with F/W and try and use a nut.
 

mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#4
Hey mustang, Thanks for the reply & info. Like I posted figured it was a stupid question. It came with an almost complete original Fox bike so didn't know.

Think I will check out the clearance with F/W and try and use a nut.
I've gotten by with a jam nut (thinner) on a couple old snow blower housings, grind the screw down to the nut after installation.
 
#5
I've gotten by with a jam nut (thinner) on a couple old snow blower housings, grind the screw down to the nut after installation.
I like :D. Sounds like a plan but may add some high temp lock tight on threads and then grind down threads to the thin nut. Lock tight prob wont hold with the type of force on that pull rope assembly but can't hurt.

The insert missing is the one right where the rope handle. Makes sense this hole prob gets most stress and why missing.

Thanks
 
#7
I thought usually the lighting coil blower shrouds have studs, and not threaded holes? At least on HS engines not sure about H?
Every H50 (Big blocks only) I've worked on always had the 4 threaded inserts pressed into holes on blower housing and pull rope assembly held on with 4 #1 Phillip" screws.
 

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