Handlebar clamps not working well

D

dirtrider998

Member
#1
#1
just assembled a mega moto 212 tillitson from GPS. I tightened the 2 U-clamps that squeeze the handle bar really well using an allen key and tapping it with a hammer instead of twisting with the hand, seems I got them as tight as possible but the handlebars slips a little forward/back, like when I pick the front end up to turn the bike around the handlebars pivot forward. They manufactured ribs on the handlebars where it clamps but it's not helping.
IDK , I see people wheeling this bike on youtube thus pulling on the handles and the last thing I want is my handlebar to slip forward/backwards. I ride bumpy woods trails that can be a lot of pressure on the handlebars.

I Was thinking to drill and tap threads and install a 1/4-20 grade8 bolt in each clamp and use permanent threadlocker. The handlebar metal is about 1/8" thick wish it were thicker but I don't think like the pressure I'll put on it will be nearly enough to shred the metal, it's about 1" tubular metal. The U-clamps are decent thickness to get some good threading into, about 2.5" total bolt threads.
Then I'll probably hide this with a foam handlebar cover for safety but I worry about these things like I'd like to just keep an eye on the bolts to make sure they're good without having to take the foam guard on and off.

Any other suggestions for this? I have 1/8" rubber sheet I could try and sandwich in there instead of drilling but maybe that'll slip too. I feel drilling and threading would be the strongest option but could weaken the handlebars a tad but again, it's about 1/8" thick 1" tube steel, so it should be fine.
 
Bigjake

Bigjake

Member
#2
#2
Without a pic in not sure what your working with but will say I wouldn't drill in the handlebars if I'm understanding you right that would weaken it right at a stress point
Is it a actual u bolt or the caps if its caps that go on it you can take back apart and sand them down to make it tighter
Another thing run your bolts down in the thread to make sure it's not a bad taped hole without caps
 
D

dirtrider998

Member
#8
#8
I'm referring to these
https://www.gopowersports.com/7-8-h...MImZGZhs7c_QIVofzjBx2KYQAREAQYBiABEgLUv_D_BwE

BTW, only one half is threaded which it doesn't show the threads in the photos, or neither is threaded and the threading is on the dashboard where these bolt in, mine have recessed hex head allen key fasteners I'd rather the regular hex head bolts in the link seems I can get them tighter with a breaker bar and socket rather than banging on the L-shaped allen key with a hammer. Got to bring my bolts to the store thread checker and replace them with grade-8 hex bolts, grade 5 would be fine but only a bit more $ for grade 8s are stronger and more corrosive resistant.
So, someone suggested just grind down the flat section of these. Good thing I asked before drilling because that should work good, someone said drilling a hole in round metal will weaken it. I'll also sandwich some thin rubber in there was agreed to benefit.
 
Bigjake

Bigjake

Member
#11
#11
Something is not right
Looks like the kit comes with the bolts and nuts which would mean you should have holes in your triple tree (dash board) not threads
If your bolts are long enuff go get nuts for them and drill out the threads and put nuts on the bottom
Then problem 2 the clamps themselves if they are touching at the contact point a 1 inch bolt put on with a impact is not gonna make the bars any tighter

Picture worth a few thousand words
 
D

dirtrider998

Member
#14
#14
I'm replacing the clamps with a much better motorcycle/dirt bike kind which is said to be the most secure, costs like $180 or something but I don't care. If I can retro fit these even if have to drill new holes will be fine, the frame is strong there.
It's common even for motorcycles the bars slip.
The clamps themselves on this mega moto are such light cheap metal I don't trust them even if I can get them super tight, it's that cheap metal the looks like cement when it's cracked.

Some put a strip of soda can as a shim but I'd rather use sandpaper I think the rocks will give a good bite, then evne with the upgraded clamp I might have the car shop here weld the outside at the engle I prefer it.

there's also aluminum mesh strips meant for wood where a screw strips the wood and doesn't grab anymore but once tight the soft aluminum will basically be flat like a soda can. Some use red permanent locktite thread locker but I don't trust that at all, not hard to break that seal.

When riding standing on bumpy trails, last thing I want is the handlebars to slip, so I'm not skimping on this.
 
Steve73

Steve73

Well-Known Member
#15
#15
I had the same problem you just have to really wrench down on the bolts a little on each of them. They all have to get tightened kinda at the same evenly. Now the don't move and all I ride are bumpy off road trails.
 
Last edited:
D

dirtrider998

Member
#19
#19
I'm not sure the exact clamps but there's some that are meant for dirtbikes/motorcycles that are specifically meant to not split and they're like $100+. Actually, they might be the $80 gorilla grabber ones, I haven't researched much into the aftermarket ones yet.

Best would be male teeth on the clamps and female teeth on the bar to set the angle and clamp down, much more than just knurling. WElding strips would be too thick and the clamps would then be too small. Some bikes don't even have knurling.

It turns out the clamps weren't bottoming out before the bolts could tighten them, so I didn't shave down any material off the clamps to make them smaller (which reduces grip area unfortunately, once I took them off though and felt how light and weak they were I'm set on upgrading them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top