MB165 Rear wheel/chain turns when bike started
- Thread starter Guttersnipes
- Start date
- Tags mb165
You still get some aggravation with torque converters. Gotta lube em and keep an eye on belt condition and replace missing clips etc etc. Same as a centrifigal clutch but in a different way. Though you do go much faster :smile:
To OP:
Check the bushing first. It may need lubed or perhaps its already damaged and needs replaced. Check the weights as well, possibly they are not seating properly. With no chain on the clutch and bike not running you should be able to spin the bell freely.
To OP:
Check the bushing first. It may need lubed or perhaps its already damaged and needs replaced. Check the weights as well, possibly they are not seating properly. With no chain on the clutch and bike not running you should be able to spin the bell freely.
The clutch is probably dirty and don't just "oil" it. Remove the chain, then the clutch. Take the clutch to a work area and remove the bell be removing the snap ring, clean with brake cleaner and inspect it and if it's glazed take some 120 grit sandpaper and sand the shoes vertically and evenly then sand around the inside of the bell. Before reassembly put some white lithium on the hub where the bushing rides and smear a bit in the bushing too. Some folks use oil and that's fine but too much and you "oil" the shoes and have to start over.:thumbsup: Ace
First thing"
Never use a lube that has silicon or other additives.
Just something simple like non detergent 30 motor oil.
Never tried it but chain saw bar lube might work well.
Sometimes "magic oils" contain things that will contaminate a clutch and cause more slipping.
Use dry Moly for the TAVs.
Sanding may help a bugger clutch and may not depends on the condition.
Hillard Max Torque is sild everywhere if you need a replacement.
Never use a lube that has silicon or other additives.
Just something simple like non detergent 30 motor oil.
Never tried it but chain saw bar lube might work well.
Sometimes "magic oils" contain things that will contaminate a clutch and cause more slipping.
Use dry Moly for the TAVs.
Sanding may help a bugger clutch and may not depends on the condition.
Hillard Max Torque is sild everywhere if you need a replacement.
To oil it just pull the bell off, put a drop of oil on your fingertip, and smear it on the bushing that the bell rides on(usually bronze in color).
As for sanding if you had a lot of glazing you'd just sand around the inside of the bell where the weights make contact.
If the bikes takes off, and the motor isn't racing, then first thing I'd do is examine that bushing. I had a bushing that went bad and did pretty much the same as you describe only it would disengage if you bumped the throttle enough. Good news if thats the case you can probably find a bushing at the hardware store that will work for a buck or three.
As for sanding if you had a lot of glazing you'd just sand around the inside of the bell where the weights make contact.
If the bikes takes off, and the motor isn't racing, then first thing I'd do is examine that bushing. I had a bushing that went bad and did pretty much the same as you describe only it would disengage if you bumped the throttle enough. Good news if thats the case you can probably find a bushing at the hardware store that will work for a buck or three.
Thats a Hillard in break down.
For 60 bucks I would sugest you buy one of them instead of another Chinese one if your's is worn.
These Chinese clutches are shit.
I managed to burn out a couple with a very mild governed clone.
If they don't lock up, they are very shortly overheated and burned up, but that advice goes for just about any clutch.
For 60 bucks I would sugest you buy one of them instead of another Chinese one if your's is worn.
These Chinese clutches are shit.
I managed to burn out a couple with a very mild governed clone.
If they don't lock up, they are very shortly overheated and burned up, but that advice goes for just about any clutch.
