Muffler > Pipe?

#1
Well I switched out the muffler on my 5.5 hp Chonda for a pipe I had made at a local Go-Kart shop. Everything fits and is lined up... But now when I hit the gas it doesn't buck like a bronco anymore and the top speed feels lower too. I'm thinking it's the pipe but I think it made be a fouled plug too because lately it's been hard to start so I've been using the choke more. Once the engine cools down I'll check the plug to be safe but I'm pretty sure it's the pipe. Do these engines require back-pressure from the muffler or something?

 
#2
I'm probably as far removed from a small engine expert as can be. But, back pressure is a necessary evil in most internal conbustion engines. It aids in clearing the spent gases from the cylinder. Re-burning gases clogged up at the valve will certainly take a toll of engine performace.
Make up a baffle by using an old servicable muffler. If things are better, you have the source of your problem.
 
#5
those hillard clutches aren't the best either. mine is brand new and it slips all the time even though its only on a 2.5 HP engine!
 
#6
Hillard clutches are the worst clutch ever made in my opinion they are sooooo cheap I have had over 5 explode on me do to the f***in little bronze piece!!!!
 
#7
Well I put the old muffler back on (along with a new spark plug) and it's back to normal. Sounds like I need jets. How would I go about doing that? Do I just find some jets for the stock carb or will I need a new carb altogether? I've never messed with small engine carbs much. I was hoping I could just richen it but looks like these carbs aren't adjustable. (Correct me if I'm wrong though.) Also thanks for the info on the clutch, I was thinking about switching it out because it did seem a tad cheap quality-wise.
 
#10
The four-cycle (or 4-stroke, as they are also commonly referred to) engine, in it's basic design, doesn't need exhaust back pressure to operate...

But, because modern engines are required to have very quiet, very flow-restricted mufflers when they are manufactured, they don't run well when a free-flowing exhaust is installed without also altering all the other factors affecting flow rate...

Back pressure in an exhaust system creates back pressure in the combustion chamber...

This decreases the amount of incoming fuel/air mixture the engine is able to draw into the combustion chamber during the 'intake' stroke...

If a free-flowing exhaust is installed to decrease back pressure, more of the inert gases left over in the combustion chamber after firing are able to be pushed out during the 'exhaust' stroke...

This decreases combustion chamber static pressure, and a greater quantity of fuel/air is drawn into the combustion chamber, even without re-jetting the carb...

But, the engine is still 'set up' to combust the old mixture level that contained more inert gases...

This usually results in incomplete combustion of the 'new' fuel/air mixture...

Two of the most important factors in combustion are the ratio of fuel to air in the incoming mixture, and ignition timing...

The fuel/air ratio of the carburetor was factory preset to compensate for the back pressure created by the factory installed exhaust system, and will need to be readjusted if this back pressure is removed...

'Timing an engine' adjusts the time that the spark plug fires to ignite the fuel air mixture...

A greater volume of fuel/air requires more time to completely combust...

The factory preset timing was adjusted for a mixture containing more inert (doesn't contribute any oxygen to combustion) gases, and won't be completely burned at the previous 'timing' setting...

This condition allows combustion to take place inside the exhaust port and pipe area during the exhaust stroke...

The fuel/air mixture is still burning as the exhaust stroke starts, and burning gases exiting the combustion chamber past the stem of the exhaust valve cause damage to the valve stem and seat area, and can also cut right through a new exhaust pipe, similar to the action of a blow torch...

So, changing an exhaust system on today's modern engines is a 'package deal'...

There are other components that need to be changed and adjusted at the same time, or the new exhaust will not have the desired effect of enhanced performance...

But it could have the opposite effect, depending on how restrictive the old exhaust was, and the amount of compensation made in other components...

But, on the plus side, a four-cycle engine, when 'tuned' for a free-flowing exhaust, will run better, due to the greater ratio of active (combustible) components contained in the combustion chamber during firing, and more powerfully than it did with the more restrictive exhaust...
 
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